///M5

Makes a HUGE difference. Some cutting board, silicone, and rivets and it is easy. Louder isn't the goal, although it is a subset usually. Duct tape will make a not very effective seal. Need something with some mass, in fact the more the better. I usually deaden the plastic for that reason, but some MLV would be even better. Sure the Duct tape isn't a solid seal. But I would bet it blocks out some of the higher frequencies from canceling out with the front wave, which would make sense why it seemed a little louder after I did it. Lol, look up the stc of duct tape.

I think you didn't even ask a question. The only one I see is "they sound good but what in comparison?" which only you can answer as you didn't state anything to describe what you are asking.

Pretty much those sweet options require a tweeter, at least the sweetest ones.

Because people would ask all sorts of dumb questions Obviously on any website they have to be conservative with any spec to a point. Power ratings are also VERY frequency dependent and box tuning dependent. You don't see that on their site either. The one fact with their specs is that it will take the power it is rated at throughout the range of options they list. *as long as you use a subsonic of course*

You do see the dichotomy in your two posts don't you??? Really funny actually.

Huh? The 9887 has ONE sub crossover, ONE sub t/a, VERY limited crossover frequencies and a FIVE band eq (not 512 lol). It won't help at all. Good that you are realizing you should drop them.

That can probably make a huuuuuuuuuuuge difference. None of us here have experience with it though.

His full rangers will play lower than your horns. An 8 probably fits your needs better. I have no experience with the Morel 9" although I understand the draw. The problem with Morel is that their quality has taken a dump in the past few years and so I can't guess what that driver will truly do. You also have a different end goal than Mr. Tatts. You are interested in output. Mating with a horn is a different game than a full ranger. Personally I'd feel better recommending that you turn the crossover freq (LP) up on your subs and use more of a pro audio mid, but your posts counteract that recommendation so I haven't pushed it.

Makes a HUGE difference. Some cutting board, silicone, and rivets and it is easy. Louder isn't the goal, although it is a subset usually. Duct tape will make a not very effective seal. Need something with some mass, in fact the more the better. I usually deaden the plastic for that reason, but some MLV would be even better. When that gets wet your eff'd. I take it apart and fix it pronto.

Complete? A box that large, playing frequencies that low, really needs some serious bracing.

No one here is down on the Q. Just don't understand why some people gravitate towards it when all they want is loud. 99% of the people that ask about the Q here are completely misinformed and think that the music they listen to has notes down to 20Hz and that the real lows are what makes things loud. After getting details from them it is obvious there are much better choices in drivers than the Q for them. In application the Q is a great driver, out of application it is a waste of money as it could have been spent getting what the owner actually wanted instead.

No, the T/A will only help with 1 driver and location not multiple. It will be all sorts of fail if you try to implement what you propose to do. You really should sell all of your subs and start fresh, this time buying a sub that is actually going to deliver what you want instead of buying what you think you want. The easiest way to figure that out is to ask with a lot of detail.

Nice review, and one note as I might have been one to comment on the terminals. Your terminals are updated from the ones I have.

fixored

Deadening, a baffle, isolating the backwave will all GREATLY improve how your speakers sound.

Currently your driver choice is really strange. Doubling up on frequencies doesn't work. If you keep all the drivers you have (which you shouldn't) you'll need something 3 way capable. The RF isn't. If you are changing processing though I assume you are changing drivers. What are you transitioning to?

Why did you buy a Q in the first place? Not at all the driver for what you plan on doing to it.

They will stick at least 3" out of your doors and you are going to have rattles from hell. The Silverado was really built like shit, mine has been by far the worst vehicle I've owned. The doors are pretty easy to get midbass out of though

Really weird driving around in the Silv-shit-ado with the stock radio...well almost. The rears are covered with mat.

Those will almost always cramp drivers, they need WAY more space than that.

real description?

Those are nearly useless. Terrible idea. Can block dripping water, but you NEED to cut a large ass hole in them.

No need, vent them into the fenders it will be much better. You've been reading where the info is dubious. Better than cramped sure, but NEVER the first step. As for reinforcing, typical way is with MDF and or fiberglass. Adding mass surely helps as well. Never seen a set of qlogics that were aimed worth a shit, but that won't be the issue with the low end. If you cut them up though I'd play with other aiming.

Perhaps if you gave more information, you'd get more answers. I have no idea what you have or how it is setup from your thread so far. Other than they are "shitty sony's from walmart"

And still overpriced.