///M5

Ha, sweet video. Hell many of the best handling cars today still don't have power steering. Many unapproachable in price, but the Lotus Elise is "affordable" and it feels like it has power steering, but does not. You mean the #2 selling brand in the world. I say let the media rip Toyota and then go after Honda & Nissan. They are the reason the cars are more reliable, all media hype in the first place. About time the media re-leveled the field. The whole anti-American BS that has been way overly propagated has to stop and some more of this is well past its due.

I don't really know all of your goals, but I bet the bold fits them. We can verify if you share some more information.

Don't waste your budget that way. There is NO benefit at all at running your subs at 4ohms. Spend the money on a smaller amp if 1kW is what you need. Thank you for at least posting box size. Many options can fit in <6cuft. You sound like a ported user so far IMO. Transmission Lines are completely useless in a car and do not fit at all with your "conserve trunk space". Anyone who designs one for you that fits in the space you have has absolutely NO idea what they are doing. Hard to pick a sub based on those parameters. You are leaning towards SQ spectrum, but I really don't think that is necessary or logical in your install. If it were you would be talking WAY more about the front stage than whatever you put in for subs as it is WAY, WAY, WAY harder to get them to a "relatively high volume" than the sub. My bet is you would be happier with more output and should be looking not at all at the Q, but towards something with more output. I'd also suggest thinking about switching your budget as you are wasting a ton of it on that amp. You could do a lot more if that weren't in your constraints.

TRULY its not possible to isolate it completely, but that would be truly unnecessary. In your case in particular. If your goals are as I think they are, and the LP amps are anything like they should be based on their price, then you shouldn't have to worry at all. If the OP has different goals which I assume he does it is a different story. He didnt' give us the required background to make the thread super helpful for him though.

For some reason when I hooked up the unit it sent a REALLY loud hiss through the speakers. All we can figure is the 4V pre-amps are too powerful for the shit RF system. I did hook it up in the same truck, with different plugs, and put the RCA's through a house system and NO issues at all. J I wonder what ohm's the RF system is set-up at? I would look over on the Xterra Forum, Maybe more answer's over there? HOW did you wire the HU in? ie through the factory plug? line converter? I searched the topic's and I couldn't find where you where talking about this? Not the pre-amp voltage. Hiss is a bad cable, connection, incorrect connection or potentially ground. I am curious to know where the processing is done on the stock system as you'll need to bypass that as well. Shouldn't be too hard, but those bastards could have things really screwed up. Nissan has never been one for very logical wiring...

Hard to help without the details I asked for...

HBDJ!

Do you make designs? If so.. i'll pay you for it. I think you are going about this the wrong way if you really want it to work. No matter who designs your box, the first try will not work all that well as it is impossible to input that many variables in particular when some are unknown. I'd expect to build it three times. Considering your best bet is to start reading and learn what questions you don't know and try to understand the design. If you don't, I'd recommend you just do a ported box and call it a day.

He is the Don of the MN Mafia. Shh

Acoustic energy transfer is much weaker than something directly coupled to a vibrating source. Decoupling is definitely the key. Amusingly though at super high levels indeed you can destroy things. I work with airplane manufacturers where we will bombard metal with high enough amplitudes of acoustic energy to fatigue parts of the plane. It is a rather standard test in the industry, but the only thing causing the parts to fail is acoustic excitation. Strain on turbine blades for planes is also measured via acoustic excitation and unlike the fatigue tests these are at high frequencies. Moral of the story, if you truly want everything to be isolated not only vibration decoupling but acoustic decoupling could be beneficial. At the same time worrying about the acoustic levels is not something I'd be focused on as realistically only the levels in burp competition would be real harmful to an amplifier. This of course is where you will find cheaper amplifiers to fail more easily as the design process may not take into account resonant energy excitation which is a primary cause for printed circuit board failure. ie if the capacitors on a board resonate at 35Hz obviously ANY acoustic energy at 35Hz is going make them shake like hell and fail.

I should do some work, but the five beers I had with "dinner" aren't letting me want to.

I could go on No need to share the details though. Did just get the "good news" that our plane is in St Louis and going to make it here so I will get home.

Go 6th. Get ready to build more than once to really nail it down.

Definitely can throw out some recommendations. Some pictures of your kicks, description of how you did the aiming, what went into your decision on mounting locations, processor capability you have, end goals (assume SQ from our previous discussions), what you've done for deadening so far, and so on would really help. Obviously having no rears is step 1.

Without vibration? No. Not possible. Need lots of extra mass layers with something between to decouple to get anywhere close. I'd start with a shit ton of bracing and really thick enclosure walls. Even better if you can decouple them from each other.

YAY, stuck in Chicago until 1:45am. Was SUPPOSED to be on a plane at 8:35 This is my first and LAST Southwest flight ever. EVER single fucking thing they've done is completely jacked...and the seats suck. The old pissed off union Northwest douchebags were better.

Other way around, you have proven over and over that you don't. Good that you are in marketing/sales and not development, although I question that as well as you could have a hell of a lot more successful company. Extra surface area, lol. Great reason to apply a damper. You crack me up. I am sure you again won't back that up. (Probably better if you don't try ) You are actually following me around, look who posted here first. I treat you no differently than anyone that posts incorrect information. I call everyone out equally. I hope it makes you feel uncomfortable posting lies and incorrect information as I have no tolerance for that. As for distancing people on the forum, I am aware that the kneejerk reaction is to not like my approach but most people who have lashed out at me also send me PM's thanking me for actually helping them instead of just giving them a canned answer not based on their needs. What really sucks is that you are a vendor on this forum, but don't support it. You claimed you'd show us through responding in threads that you care about the forum and again proved this isn't the case. You care about moving product and even do it unethically like recommending that people put Spectrum on their hoods. If you want to do that on DIYMA where you own the forum I can't and therefore don't say shit, but I won't let that misinformation fly here. The editing you request won't happen on this forum unlike others as that shady shit doesn't fly here. If you can't take the time to be up front, honest, and forthcoming then it is easy you don't have to post. I wouldn't want to look stupid either. Feel free to not. I'll refrain from ripping your last post apart this time. Just get your facts right next time so we don't have to go through this again. It isn't fun for me either. I've never hid from my motives. I want this forum to be a great place of information for everyone with no BS. Your posts show that your motives are to sell your product even if it means to not give solid advice. Either you do this exclusively for your pocket or you truly don't understand what you sell. Not sure which is your "motive" but my response to either will be the same. I do know if your motives were truly to improve the board you'd welcome other vendors, so I guess we can assume what yours are as well.

Me to. Putting it on the hood is even worse than your other recommendations. Perhaps you would like to enlighten us as to how that will reduce road noise, although at this point I don't expect you will respond.

Amongst the manufacturers with budget a Laser Vibrometer is used as the FEA is based on assumptions, the Klippel isn't very accurate, and Dumax well you already took care of for me.

Holy crap Matt. I wish I could grant you the mulligan I offered.

I've blown out three, but I have monstrous farts.

I don't lie and I don't exaggerate on the 'positive' side. No joke. This thing is pretty much the most badass piece of electronics I own and the controller functions very well and is intuitive in its layout. Just put the software on my roommates computer so there are now multiple machines linked to it. The RF remote is nice so that you don't even have to be in the same room to control it. They made what would be the best music controller for a party ever. Don't have to have your computer out, screw with cd's, big remote, etc. The DAC's aren't that bad either. They ARE moddable and it has a digital out. The sync function for multiple SB throughout the house is sweet as well. In my case, unecessary since the whole stereo is in the basement but for retrofits that weren't as wire gungho as me it could be super helpful. No more BS Pandora charges either It is also open source code so you can access all of its functions and libraries/album art from anywhere as well. I love mine. _

LOL, I read your thread as for a BL. Not from BL. Either way, to answer your question, download WinISD Pro Alpha and read the help files. It will step by step allow you to calculate Xmax.

Not that this is what you want to hear, but a little research will lead you down the same path. I'd sell it and buy a deadener that actually did what it was supposed to. It is not designed to do what you are going to use it for. Complete con-artist bs marketed by someone who thinks they can lie their way to success. It is REALLY ineffective compared to other solutions. Even if you lose 30% of your money reselling it you are better off turning that 70% into something else. My personal choice is SDS although other quality products can do what you need as well...just depends on your true goals which will determine your investment.

VERY frequency dependent as with all tweeters. Not sure why you were having troubles getting them loud as ear curdling is rather easy with them.