///M5

Marketing. Dirty evil, shitty marketing. But hey, its working otherwise you wouldn't have asked the question.

Really I don't see how it could ever be helpful since most amp manufacturers have the bass boost at 45 hz, and where do ported boxes generally have their FR hump at? 40-45 hz, or 10 hz above tuning. So why would anybody need to boost a frequency range that's already being boosted by the box? Not to mention the cabin gain that is higher as the frequency gets lower. You are right in that I shouldn't have even offered that up as a solution, it will be horribly misread here. I think I only added it as I didn't want someone to offer up the following scenario as an eff you M5. The instance I was thinking of is when "captain show off" (known also as the guy with the Napoleon complex...tends to play his shit loud in public) stops in at his local mega store and picks up a 15" driver that is designed for a 2.5cuft sealed box. Being that the dumbass doesn't have space for a 2.5cuft box, he builds a 1cuft box leaving him with a subwoofer that is almost acting like a midbass. Of course this dipshit buys an amp that is 2x the rated power for the sub to further inflate his e-peni. In his case, adding 6dB of boost at 40Hz could actually hugely improve his midbass enclosure and turn it into a bass enclosure. He also will be okay in the excursion realm since this teeny box has greatly improved the mechanical power handling of the sub and might even be okay thermally playing music. Really obtuse case, but I have seen so many people buy subs and then realize they only have the space for half the box they need, in that case if the boost were the right amount it could be helpful. Of course these are the same idiots who will destroy their sub with the gain knob anyways and the bass boost will just make that happen way faster. NOTE: I am definitely NOT recommending that someone try to do this on purpose as it screams fail all over it. A driver in the proper enclosure will ALWAYS smash this sort of bullshit. Take a look at what it does to the cone excursion, if you don't know how to calculate that then you shouldn't be designing enclosures anyway.

Momma's got a squeezebox, daddy never sleeps at night.

I haven't, but I really appreciate it. I took a slump in my fantasy league that knocked me out of the playoffs. Sort of kills the desire to watch every game.

I'd be embarrassed to post a vid like that.

i did on the 3rd post down That wasn't information. Exactly my point Unless you tell us what you might be into there is no possible way for us to recommend anything. I can guarantee you won't like what I like, so unless you let me know what it is you are looking for it is pretty tough. The other recommendations you will get are all from people who have what they recommend which is completely worthless information IMO.

When the information in the thread is lacking and the OP ignores the posting guidelines he agreed to when he joined and then posts a topic that is rehashed 20x a week it gets REALLY annoying. Make a good thread, give good information or DON'T POST.

Umm, I answered. Don't post again without giving all the measurements you need. And I bet the thickness of the sonotube is about a 1/4" anyways which would make the overall diameter 8.5".......

I LOVE that basket

You get the same with the Squeezebox and no monthlies Plus it streams all your other media to and can be remote controlled very easily. I paid $80 for mine.

Why didn't you subtract the port volume from the box? You know it is only 16" long. I will assume 1/4" diameter pipe. 8.5" total diameter by 16" is 907 cu inches or .52cuft. You have 4.85cuft. Around a 21.5" port should be close enough if my other assumptions were right.

Not a single stain in my front or rear seats and my car is a 1991. I don't understand dirty cars though, it really isn't that hard to keep things clean.

Considering how ridiculously easy the test is when it is on topic I don't see how it would help. The off topic BS is absurd. Go for it if it gets you a raise, not like it is hard

Holy crap, do you ever clean your car. The carpet is disgusting. At least adding the wall won't hurt the value any.

Deaden the panels enough. ie 25% or so. Other than that there will be absolutely zero benefit in doing more. You could actually get by with less and would really be better with a layer of MLV to knock down road noise, but taking out self excited and bass excited resonances isn't a bad idea.

It must have clipped then. I'm only running 1000w with the gain all the way down. That isn't a valid gain setting. 1000w and gain all down does NOT equal "only 1000w". Set them correctly next time, but first figure out where you need your other settings so this doesn't happen again.

Read the noob posting guidelines. Your threads really aren't benefiting you or the forum.

Scrap the rears, bridge the fronts (or find a 3chn), build a better box, perhaps upgrade the subs and if that isn't enough buy a used Memphis Belle...but keep in mind the impedance of the subs you buy.

<-- not a fan of the Focals generally speaking <-- never would recommend running 3 way passive <-- has no idea what to recommend to you since you gave us no information

The topic is for everyone to express their opinion of what enclosure they like best and why they like it, every has a opion of what they like in every aspect of a installation down to the wire they use. I was just tryin to see what people like and why thats all. I build them both and I use both in my cars its really just depends on what you like. You must be thick. Read: General topic is ridiculous, it is always driver dependent. If you were discussing what drivers people choose and why for what alignments okay, but just asking what enclosure won't help anyone including yourself. You are going to get a bunch of boner answers that really aren't useful.

Not sure if you run out of time with a Squeezebox either, perhaps some month I will find out. You don't get the ads though

Was that supposed to be impressive or depressing?

Radioshaft has a USB to RS-232 plug that lets you specify what COM to use. Newegg has some for $7. I'd like one USB to 8 RS-232 or something. Speed wouldn't be an issue, but it should also be cheap as it is fucking serial for god's sake.

Blame the industry for screwing itself. No standardized testing means that there are no published specs that are comparable. Really simple actually. Of course buying a meter is stupid, as is caring what the actual power is. Minimal changes in power mean jack shit. Instead buy something that is made with good components and will do what you need it to do.

Just asking, not trying to start anything, but if this is so why is there such hate for the Hifonics amps that does 80% of their sad total wattage? Why is there so much hate for a 1990 Daewoo and not for a 1990 Honda? Now add the fact that amplifiers do NOT have any sort of standardized testing...and you think its funny there is hate for a budget brand that will cut any corner possible to meet a price point?? A better question would be why are you defending a compromise? To me I'd much rather have a used piece of real electronics versus a new complete compromise. What do you think the difference between a $50 headunit and a $300 headunit is if you aren't using any of the processing nor amplification? Do I need to go on?