///M5

top

two different teams yet they are both the cardinals

wtf, AZ vs MN is completely different than AZ vs SF

"sq inches" ie two dimensions you multiply that were both in inches volume is in "cubic inches" ie three dimensions you multiply that were both in inches

You can put the tweeter in the same enclosure, but a midrange would require its own enclosure. What crossover are you using?

Maybe its as good as their amps. If you want a paperweight, go for it.

why 2 dishes?

i cant wait for hd's to get down to the size of a floppy disc... then again im sure we'll replace that technology by then They already have ones that are smaller. You've obviously never seen a 1" drive, huh.

To get an idea of what a safe seat lift is search for IBThumpin lift kits on fullsizechevy.com in the electronics section. It would give you an idea how to make them safely

Amusingly you are the one who bumped it....lol and yes, I realize its the poll

I need the Samsung Q1's to drop in price damnit. I refuse to spend that much dough on a remote.

Most seat lifts are blocks that are perhaps more rugged than the stock even. I lifted mine 3/4" and kept all the stock mounting hardware.

Depends on for when & what.

Does it matter which side you switch? I would try every iteration. Not just the pair, but the independent drivers. (ie each tweeter and each mid and every possible combination)

1) You should set the subsonic such that your excursion is realistic for your sub. Rule of thumb's IMO are not the way to do it. A quick model in Win ISD will show you the excursion for your power and box size. 2) You can measure. Filter frequencies are -3dB points so you could play a 10v sine wave and measure on a voltmeter, keep reducing the frequency until you hit 7.07V and that will be your crossover frequency or 3dB down point. I'd recommend burning a CD with a whole range of sine tones around your frequency of interest and use them. Of course you could use a single one if you know specifically what frequency you want it to be at. For instance, if that were 30Hz burn a 30Hz sine tone on a CD. Play the CD through your system with the filters off and measure the voltage. Now multiply that voltage by .7079. Now turn on your filter and turn the knobs until your DMM reads whatever voltage you just calculated.

sniifing

What would he use to deaden the doors? They don't really have anything similar to butyl adhesive compound sheets accept dense vinyl but that does not have an adhesive backing. I think he has a budget for the deadener as well. Something VERY similar, although superior. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld Interesting. I was looking at these myself. I did not believe that they worked that well. So how would we deaden near the speaker? Huh? Why wouldn't they work well? Definitely superior to other options on the market. As for how you deaden near the speaker it is exactly the same as how you deaden any panel. You peel it off and stick it on.

QFT

The Zaph ZDT3.5 could work for you also

Link for you http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=15323 For your needs though (ie smaller footprint) these might work better: http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=13969 And they can be made into towers, somewhere in the thread there is a link to them. If not the Modula MTM has the enclosure and the difference between the two is crossover only. I am building the Seas version. The reason I chose the WMTW is to avoid using an MTM as a center. Plus gotta love the RS225's.

Well I'm REALLY looking into the 18" BTL.. Have all the electrical and everything done, just need the enclosure and sub. Can you think of any ways to make this idea a reality? It's about the only way I can think of to have a big enough enclosure for the 18" without taking out my back seats. I can seal the trunk as much as I possible can with it still be functional. You REALLY need to figure out your enclosure before sub shopping. If you can't fit a box for an 18" BTL then you shouldn't run it. Sealing & functional aren't going to happen.

err, not quite identical but using the same drivers. Dennis Murphy's TMWW & WMTW will probably be what I build first. The rest of the drivers I have I will design my own crossovers, but I am not going to tackle a three way without following a design. For now anyways.

Oh and you'll notice I have no center channel. Since I have to build that anyways I am going to build three identical speaks up front.

DIY bug. I'd like every set of speaks in my house to be built by yours truly. On top of that, I am not in love with their sound.

What would he use to deaden the doors? They don't really have anything similar to butyl adhesive compound sheets accept dense vinyl but that does not have an adhesive backing. I think he has a budget for the deadener as well. Something VERY similar, although superior. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/products/cld