///M5

After Obama you might as well multiple by 10's of thousands

Only we drink better beer.

And there are only 12 of them. Of course I shouldn't talk, we drink a bit up here as well.

Flying to Milwaukee tomorrow. Woot, first class for a whopping 40min flight. Maybe I should get drunk in the morning, lol.

"lows" That was helpful. Considering your vague description you probably should just run what you have.

Heineken light sucks even if my name is on the bottle. Someone left a case in my fridge so I am trying to drink it.

Dollars per use is what should make you choose. If it were an oven there are different reasons for choosing. Bakers swear by gas, the heat is supposedly less likely to remove moisture which of course you could say would make you lean towards an electric dryer but considering I have seen great results from either I'd probably just run what the laundry room is prepared for. *of course in my case that is also another wall that is up next to the garage and I CAN get gas into the laundry room Not sure if my 1" supply can supply everything I'll have connected to it then though.

Of course our best dryer was from the late 40's.

aren't most laundromat dryers gas models? At our dry cleaners we most definitely used gas

Accessibility is non-existent otherwise I wouldn't be thinking of an alternative.

lubed? Rlp's work well IB, but the more cone area the better obviously.

Same reason you wouldn't run two different other drivers.

What do you hope to gain. Without a goal it is ridiculous to recommend anything.

Or if you want to talk me into it

top

The range is 40amp 220v which I was hoping to turn into a pair of 110v circuits for the garage and optionally the 220v for the saw. I know I can get the saw to work, but need a damn neutral to get the 110v...unless you know some trick outside of using said "ground" as a neutral.

The OP is the one that is confused.

They did say that I could use my "ground" as a neutral and would pass code from the 70's+...nearly recommended it. Sucks because I really can't pull a lead all the way back to the box.

Ground and Neutral are tied together back at the box, just the way it works. You should have 120v from one hot to ground, and 120v from the other hot to ground, and 220v across the hots. FYI: If you were wiring a 3-phase piece of equipment and it turns backwards, you just have to switch any two wires and it'll switch rotational direction. So how does it make sense to have a ground and a neutral, but to have them wired together. What confused me is that there is no neutral in this case, just ground but being it is connected to the neutral it looked like no ground. Sort of screws me on the make 1 -220v and 2-110v circuits out of it You can only have single or three phase. Single phase is used in residental. You have 3 wires coming into your house from the transformer. The single phase 220 (the two "hot" leads and the neutral, which technically is the grounded terminal. The neutral is a thrid line off the transformer to halve the voltage from 220. If you measure from one lead to neutral or ground, you get half the potential (120V). IF you measure across the two leads you have 220V. Now, with three phase is you measure across any of the two leads, you'll have your voltage. Let's take 480V 3 phase. Measure across L1 (line1) and L2(line2) and you get 480V. Measure either across L3 and you'll get the same. Now measure across ground and you'll get half potential or 240V. Now, if you wanted to get 480V single phase from the 3 phase, you'd simply run 2 of the lines. This can be done, but it leads to instability across the lines with the final leg not being used. Now, the neutral is simply there for residential to halve the voltage. Without it, the only way to halve the voltage is to go to ground. This leaves no return path for current, so you see the futility here. With residential, many neutrals are bonded to ground simply so any stray current can go to ground potential. The ground potential is nothing more than a safety measure. Ideally there is no potential across the ground, unless there is stray current, or a lighting strike. Now, for your situation, you will have 2 hots and one ground. The hots will be either side of the service (L1 and L2) and the ground will just come from the ground. IF you needed to get 110 from here, you'd have to run a neutral in which case you could use either line to get there. Thanks. I asked 4 different "electricians" at home depot and none of them could explain shit. I only wanted to know why and what which you have answered.

gas across the board is usually cheaper

Ground and Neutral are tied together back at the box, just the way it works. You should have 120v from one hot to ground, and 120v from the other hot to ground, and 220v across the hots. FYI: If you were wiring a 3-phase piece of equipment and it turns backwards, you just have to switch any two wires and it'll switch rotational direction. So how does it make sense to have a ground and a neutral, but to have them wired together. What confused me is that there is no neutral in this case, just ground but being it is connected to the neutral it looked like no ground. Sort of screws me on the make 1 -220v and 2-110v circuits out of it

Holy fuck, several inches of snow potentially overnight. My boat is still in the water

TopofW

Speaking of which, I am gonna log off and get me some ass.

Be on the aggressive, don't wait for them to ask for highlights, and don't let for any awkward silences. Sort of what I said. Perhaps to clarify, it is impossible for someone to ask you too many questions if you are the one asking. ALL situations in life work better when you are leading this way. No one really wants to hear anyone tell them anything, but when you ask the world opens up. If you haven't figured this out yet, start trying it on women. Your closing percentages will SKYROCKET.