///M5

when you can't finish and you give up a short handed it sucks

I'm not selling anything atm. Curious what 8 you are going to run to 3k, I'd probably rethink that.

Just toured the historic homes in our neighborhood. Pretty sweet. The mansion was owned by the Burton's who invented the sailing scow that pretty much changed the history of racing sail boats.

ROFL, enjoy the kool-aid *and the same people will be in the IA forum btw*

No that was paying someone to do it. $50-200 depending on what stuff you already have at home to do it yourself.

No matter where you put those tweeters they are going to sound like ass. You are also going to have NO midbass which completely is the opposite of an SQ setup. I really don't at all understand your driver choices as they surely don't come anywhere close to meeting your suggested goals. what tweeter do you use m5? and what others have you used? which ones were bad and which are good? I want to sound like you when I grow up lol, subjective. What I am running right now is in my sig, but I have a bunch of other tweets in the house. Better to describe needs and ask for assistance choosing than what is bad/good.

18" sub and no amp on the fronts doesn't work

Lazy CL bastards won't call me back.

I assume someone makes some "liftable" caster kits just for that purpose.

Damnit, I want a fucking table saw. I have a bunch of projects to attack. If its on casters I can fit a 73" saw in the corner Also looking at dust collection systems, figure if I am going to do this I am going to do it right.

If he wasn't sick maybe, but instead we are going to do some parade of homes visits in the $1.5M and up class to get ideas on refinishing our master suite

So clean its magical DOESN'T matter for shit on subs, you cannot hear distortion even on a pretty cheap class D amp. No way, no how. I have also heard an LP on a front stage and will say that it wasn't any more impressive than ANY other quality amp that I have heard. You bought into the fairy dust marketing hype big time. If not why not prove Richard Clark wrong with your "magical" amp.

Custom glass work will run you between $500-1500 depending on what needs to be done.

You HAVE to use a frequency that is well within the passband of the crossover for gain setting. I'd also NOT pick the lowest again as you will really stress your woofer if you are pushing the limit. Typically 1000Hz is a good number for a component set as you will be above the HP and well below the LP. 500Hz would be fine as well though.

Boo, that doesn't sound like fun. Sorry mang.

Did something change? No matter where you put those tweeters they are going to sound like ass. You are also going to have NO midbass which completely is the opposite of an SQ setup. I really don't at all understand your driver choices as they surely don't come anywhere close to meeting your suggested goals.

Your stereo was NOT the cause of the catalytic failure either. I have been to multiple facilities where they test the cushioning mats for cats and they levels they shake them are WAY higher than you could with your setup. *and stop typing in ellipses it is really fucking annoying

Oh and even with only 2kW you are going to need an alternator.

Even if you only gave them 1 watt each, the BTL's will be louder than the BL's. The BTL is ALWAYS louder than the BL. *assumes box designed appropriately for each*

Definitely put them up front. Makes no sense to me to put them in the rear as it would be way easier to get monster midbass from a sub in the rear than mids anyway. Bringing them up front will have all sorts of benefits though.

Because it is typically in between your sub-sonic and LP filter. If you are using an oscilloscope you are best off setting your gains with all the filters off. It is also dangerous to set the gains at "the lowest frequency" for your system. The subs excursion will be at its maximum here and perhaps it won't actually take the power you are giving it if you are using a 0dB tone. 50-60Hz is much safer for that reason. In particular if you have a ported enclosure you need to be well above the port tuning as well so that the box doesn't unload and destroy the driver. If you set gains by your ear, which IMO is the only real way to do it, then it is also dumb to use a low frequency tone as your hearing is not as good at lower Hz. Of course, the reason I set by ear is to blend together with my front stage. I am not into getting output out of my sub as IMO that is not at all why I have them, but instead I use the sub to fill in where my midbass falls off. If you are into max output then an oscilloscope is truly the way to go.

Yep, that amp is more hype than sweet. Nothing wrong with it though as it will do what you need. On top of that it is really absurd to put an "SQ" amp on a sub. You'd be hard pressed to hear 5% distortion so really a high efficiency amplifier makes a lot more sense. If you are truly into SQ no matter what amp you have you will be much more concerned with blending it with your front stage and a couple hundred watts ought to get you there unless you have some monstrous midbass drivers up front.

You can tune there but it won't help your response and will just cause you to lose some output. In a car it is not necessary.

Not going to subject AIdan to the weather so the Ren Fest isn't happening. Don't look hard for me Matt as you won't find me.

I thought you were basically in LA not TX.