///M5

You weren't here then

VA, TX, IN and wherever the fuck your facl'd from Bromo

3x MN in the hop house

fuckit

Or facl on your fuck

Gonna fuck your facl

Facl Fuck

How the fuck did I type Facl?

Facl = Fuck

Facl. just spent time reading on the AVSforum in the DIY section. Now I wonder if I should disregard everything else I read there in the Rcvr sections.

why bi amping? I do have an 3-4 y/o integra. no hdmi. it's just sitting now Bi amping because I can. Would allow me to build some midbass bins underneath some MTM's for sonic goodness. Necessary? No. Which Integra do you have that you aren't using?

AVR rant top

Thought about doing a cheaper solution (ie $300 used) and a DVDO upconverter, but it ends up being the same. The house is wired so that I "can" do upconvert via component cables, but that to me is a short term solution and I would REALLY prefer a single cable to each location for which the house is also wired. If it does do HDMI it would be installed in the house and hopefully would last at least 15 years....which amusingly is the age of the Adcom proc it is replacing. Oh, it wouldn't hurt if it had pre-outs as otherwise for a while my 5 chn Adcom will just sit idle. At the same time, the space isn't such that I am concerned about using the amp in teh receiver as my critical listening space will be in the home theater room and still a year or 2 out.

Most importantly be able to be controlled by my home automation controller via ethernet or RS-232 Upconvert everything to HDMI as I don't want to buy a $600 proc to do that Play 5.1 Room correction a plus as it isn't exactly the best space Bi-amping the mains is a bonus Headroom is something I've always liked Dynamic volume for commercials (IF IT WORKS) would be sweet as that shit drives me fucking nuts.

Anyone know how you get your Bing rebates? I know I have to wait 60 days but do they send a check or give you Paypal credit or wtf?

Damnit I really want the search for the AVR to be done. So sick of looking for deals that I am now buying new. FUCK. Denon 3310 $996 Onkyo 876 $1015 Shipped/tax/all that shit. Just not 10000% sure that they both work with the home automation. The Denon will for sure, but I am leaning towards the Onk from the reviews on the amp section and Video processor. This will be used in my main family room playing TV 80% of the time and music the other 20%. Moving my current gear to my office where I can truly listen. I guess I "have" to build some near field monitors. Leaning towards doing some Fonkens atm with either my Rlp or IXL to fill in the lows with some little cheap amp. The other sub goes in the tv room with the Den/Onk, a BFD and some funky hardwood enclosure I'll build. Has to look like furniture and I can't fit a 15.

Nice, what did you having it running a whole week before the road trip first drive was 2.5 weeks and ~400 miles before we left Woot, nice job

I put more than that to my BL's so i dont know what your talkin about Again, asking a question such as this shows the knowledge level of the OP which makes my answer really valid. I do realize that Fi actually even builds in some idiot factor in their specs to solve this issue but my advice was still spot on. A few reasons. 1) If the OP was setting his gains with an O-scope then we'd know they were set right. If not, who knows how far into clipping they could be set 2) You can make the assumption that by asking a question like this the gain setting tutorial will be followed, but then who knows what level on teh vol knob and what bass boost crap the OP will use. In particular when "showing" off the sub to his friends. 3) If you are competing, the BTL is a better choice. If you aren't you CANNOT hear the difference between 1300w and 1800w anywise so there is no reason to push the sub to its limits for non-audible gains Other reasons as well, but that is enough.

aargh, I can't find shit BOo! Fuck you Onk.

nice work either way, the brown must be motivating

Any problems any of you know about 6ave.com?

Do you mean 1/3 in time or perception...because regrettably if you are like me that means you've barely gotten started.

Either way I feel stupid as I didn't run enough wires to bi-amp my mains which either receiver would allow. Just seems to be a more logical way to build mains for the non-critical listening room (ie family room)

Really frustrated. I suck at the internet. All I want are the damn RS-232 codes for the Onkyo 876/906 and any one of these (Integras or Onks): DTR-4.6, 90w x 5.1 DTR-5.6, 90w x 7.1 DTR-6.6, 105w x 7.1 DTR-7.6, 105w x 7.1 And also the DTC-7, DTC-9.1 V2, DTC-9.4, DTR-4.5, DTR-4.6-J, DTR-5.2, DTR-5.3, DTR-5.4, DTR-5.5, DTR-5.6-J, DTR-6.2, DTR-6.3, DTR-6.4, DTR-6.5,DTR-6.6-J, DTR-7.1, DTR-7.2, DTR-7.3, DTR-7.4, DTR-7.6-J, DTR-8.2, DTR-8.3, DTR-8.4, DTR-9.1, DTR-10.5, DTX-7, RDC-7, RDC-7 V2, RDC-7.1, TX-DS787, TX-DS797, TX-DS898, TX-DS989, TX-DS989 V2, TX-NA900, TX-NA1000, TX-NR900, TX-NR901, TX-NR1000, TX-NR5000E, TX-SR702, TX-SR703, TX-SR703-J, TX-SR803, TX-SR803-J, If I can't I may be forced to buy a Denon 3310 instead.

gateway to the South eh?