///M5

Better depends on your application and goals, if you don't state them I'll lock the thread as this won't go anywhere useful without you sharing information. edit: if you just want opinions on the drivers, SEARCH, which btw is something you agreed to do when you joined.

Cheap, good, and new. Hmm. Pick 2.

While I am glad that removing what you did has helped so far, you shouldn't take only part of the advice and apply it to what you want. Your current plans are a bit confused and won't really net you what you want. Before you buy anything you should describe your goals. I can tell you a couple hard facts. The Seas 27's you are planning are NOT for you, the 4 6.5" midbasses you planned won't do what you want, and the other choices that come with will probably frighten me as well. I understand your goals are different from mine and won't push what I'd do, but you need to step back and realize that you are taking bits and pieces of recommendations that don't pertain to your install and mis-applying them. Removing the rears was a great first step, now let's fix the rest of your ideas.

You need a barrier more than you need dampening. Obviously there are spots where some butyl material will help, but MLV or lead are your friend. Thats the best advice and all the advice you will need, by SecondSkin dampening FTW! Or you can use your money more wisely and shop at http://sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi unlike other manufacturers the advice that Don gives you is much more useful and his products are top notch.

Maybe a better question would be why. I'd be 95% of line drivers are installed for all the wrong reasons and most likely you don't need one, but when you ask an open question and don't share why you will get crap advice.

bass is always omnidirectional. there is no exception to that. and yes, like normal people, there has been plenty of times that i hear a loud system, and look into a crowd of cars and have a difficult time telling which one it is. hmm... maybe im just weird? the only way u can tell where its coming from, is when the volume gradually increases as it gets closer, peaks in volume, and then gradually decreases as it gets farther away. other than that, bass has been and will always be dubbed omnidirectional. Bass is omnidirectional to a certain frequency which to every human is different. Personally I can EASILY localize 50hz so if you are playing your subs higher than that you are wrong. On top of that you did break the law by being an ass. NO ONE wants to hear your crap music so don't make them. Personally I think you should be fined more as maybe it would stop this sort of crap from happening.

"Plenty of control" will require a digital processor not some simple analog crossover.

I would never recommend using an amplifier for an active setup. It can work and will work IF you know what you are doing, but is extremely hard to make any changes. Fundamentally a processor isn't worth crap to me if it doesn't do: Many different slopes, digitally set crossover points, independent L/R equalizer, time alignment on any channel. Personally I'd look for something other than the 360.2 as well as it was meant for doing OE installations, not what you propose. Considering you want a screen an Alpine screen with the H701 is a WAY, WAY better choice than either of your options.

That post is laughable. Just because you do not understand the program doesn't mean it is giving you the wrong information. It does work and work for every woofer. The program was NEVER meant for you to just hit the "optimal" button and use that as a box. If you can't think and don't know what you are doing it will lead you down the wrong path (as will all modeling programs that do not take into account the specific environment). Just because you used it wrong doesn't mean it doesn't work.

tataTOP

Electrical tape. Or just unplug the LED. Your method is faster, mine is permanent. As for the storms, *jealous* I love electrical storms.

Your brother writes a nice for sale add.

*pukes* Can you write an actual sentence or are you only capable of ellipses? 2 ohm components are a marketing gimic and not helpful in your overall plan, the RE's do NOT have especially good midbass, I'd "love" to see you put 300wrms to their tweeter, and who cares about power when your efficiency is crap. All in all that was not a good recommendation at least for the reasons cited. Oh the CDT's you picked out surely won't have midbass though.

No Riv. I just can't do it. . . Good. That makes me feel better.

the Riv?

5 days for what?

I work with huge pivot tables all the time, tons of graphs and equations and yes super confusing. The way I keep track of our forecast and such.

You have some Awesome fishing equipment!! Thanks. A lot of time, thought, "training", and effort went into figuring out exactly what I wanted. If you don't mine, what would you recommend for flyfishing. This is something I have been thinking about doing. Budget? Fishing location? Species? Do you know what sort of baits you'd throw? *what works here may not be your choices I am looking for a decent set up. Maybe under $200, but I don't want to waste money on junk. As for fish trout and bass are pretty common here in central pa. That's not fair, you have my two favorite fishing species in one place. If I want stream trout (which I absolutely love) I have to go to Colorado. Some of the best trout streams in the country are in SW MN. Bass, Muskie, Walleye, Northern, Crappie are also super plentiful. Steelhead and Lakers up North too.

The Lincoln is a way quieter car in the first place which is huge for sounding good. All your rim choices are unpleasant.

meh, it isn't dependent on the driver at all to me but the wire length and power.

No sense at all, size is not what determines boominess or tightness.

You have some Awesome fishing equipment!! Thanks. A lot of time, thought, "training", and effort went into figuring out exactly what I wanted. If you don't mine, what would you recommend for flyfishing. This is something I have been thinking about doing. Budget? Fishing location? Species? Do you know what sort of baits you'd throw? *what works here may not be your choices I am looking for a decent set up. Maybe under $200, but I don't want to waste money on junk. As for fish trout and bass are pretty common here in central pa. Trout and bass require flies that are way different in size. Depending on your stream size and fish for trout you'd be looking at a 4-6wt rod and for bass between a 7-10wt. They aren't really scalable like normal tackle either as the line determines how large of a fly you can throw. What sort of water would you fish?

Chaska was nuts earlier today. Funny watching the Good Year blimp fly around in particular since it was 50 miles away when I thought it would be right over the course.

What differences would a good texas rig rod have than a wacky rod? Depends on the cover and where you are throwing the rig. I fish TRigs with a bait caster and usually fish wacky's with a spinning rod, unless I am in clear water chasing smallies.