///M5

Boosting is bad, mmmkay?

you mean Mars bar

Wow, Peng sighting outside the hop. Although the 10" thread sort of turned into a hop. I really hate rampant misinformation in threads.

The part I find the most amusing is that I called his statement stupid 7 posts before it was made and he still made it.

Get that fixed ASAP! You're racking up miles you're not actually driving. Damn your good lol. I sent in the PCM for the retune and forgot to tell them about the 4.56's so they just retuned for the tires so now the speedo is off even more, but I just drove it that one time, realized it was off. Took it home, pulled the PCm out, and sent it on its way. You weren't going over 100? I didn't realize. I just thought that Chevy's must be super, super fast.

Your the "dumb" one I described above. Tight bass has NOTHING to do with sub size. So you are saying that you can get the same tight bass out of a 15 that you can out of a 10 I think not.. I know that the box has a lot to do with it..... But if you don't know how to build a box you wont get tight bass.. Dumb ass. Lets see you get tight bass out of anything else. and in tell you can prove it keep your friggin mouth shut. If you want to go out of your way to be ignorant I'll play. I can be VARY ignorant. want to see Hmm, yeah probably not a good idea to badmouth a moderator if you want to continue posting here. Especially when you're wrong. If you don't know how to build a box you won't get tight bass out of a 10" either. Ever been to a club with a concert playing? If they have dedicated subwoofers and not just 2-way monitors, a lot of the time the tight bass you feel is from 18" drivers. And I'll put in that my ported 15" SI Mag v.2 is one of the most accurate subs I've heard. I did say that the box makes the tight bass, and if you are a mod it not a good reflection on the forum if you are ignorant. And my JBL WGTI 10's are the tighest most controlled subs on the market. Another ignorant blanket statement. The WGTI's are NOT the tightest subs on the market bar none. Not even close. 18's can be as tight as 10's.

Not sure why you thought a Q, but ignored the BL...that makes no sense. As for the two cheaper subs versus one that is more, that is up to your wallet but they are priced as such for a reason.

San Jose in 24

bottom

It never hurts to rationalize things.

Sounds like summer is here. I can't wait for the lake to warm up. Nearing 60 degrees, but we need a bit warmer air temps before flocks of women in bikini's start getting in. Then we have an excuse to start drinking before noon

Targeting what species?

Just FYI, that gives you ZERO useful information about the driver.

I hear that helps resale!

Exactly. cable = cable, copper = copper, LCR is all that can change and is easily measured and if can't be measured it surely can't be heard.

sooooo i'm guessing geometry wasn't your favorite class. rofl Nope. not to geometry yet, will you go ahead an explain what i did wrong for you to realize i'm not the sharpest tool in the geometry shed. I took Geometry in 7th grade... Length x width x height = volume

Why not a BL?

5555TOP

Just missed Euclid's birthday too, 5 days ago.

sooooo i'm guessing geometry wasn't your favorite class. rofl

Again, completely wrong assumption. Same amp, the BTL will be LOUDER than the Q. Even if you upgrade NOTHING else. You aren't comparing anything that makes sense. The BTL is fine, even with 200w it will be louder than the Q...and significantly. And stop with the SQ, you have NO idea its meaning. From now on just describe what you want without using either the term SPL or SQ.

Madden it is going to come down the box. Considering your goals though why not a BTL instead of a Q. The Q would be the last Fi driver I'd pick for what you sound like you will do with the sub.

Never been in a civic, but as always separate the backwave, use a acoustic barriers, deaden resonances, use something to stop the rattles wherever they occur and mount it to a very rigid baffle that is as decoupled as possible from the door. If you are really going for it, spend as much time as you can aiming the drivers in as many locations as possible.

Speakers ALWAYS should be mounted to a baffle. Deadening and installation will help more than changing drivers, in particular if you are true to your stated goals.

The whole thing with investments is that it is now normalized. Without insider information or riding the lucky roller coaster, don't expect big gains to return. Although slow and steady is truly more than fine and exactly what this country need.s