///M5

I'd rather have a 9811, 9813, 9833, 9835, 9887 and many more. Definitely not the best yet.

fixed, not a recommendation I hope

A picture would be worth a thousand words, I'd like to see the interference and what difference it would make going to a 3" and small format.

Be a waste. If you want to do a rudimentary two way, just get a set of 3" or 4" full range drivers and use them with the Mach5's. Make sure your amps can handle the cross points though.

Perhaps you should re-evaluate the install on your current mids. Midbass is hugely a function of install. HUGELY.

Both are stupid sizes and if I could wager I would say no way in hell they will be building a 6"x8" driver nor a 6x9.

she's 82 and likes young men

delayaTop

I thought you lived in Pennsylvania, not Pennsyltucky

Man, I miss having chinese. In other news wifey broke passenger sun visor on the car. Huh, no chinese in MD? Huh, how'd she managed teh smoothness?

What makes them a bitch? Do they have the bolts instead of lug nuts? The holes seem small, but that's what thin-wall sockets are for . Mine has very long bolts and it can be pesky to take on or take off the tire. lack of airtools ftl.

Geee, great. The fackin' wind was unbelievable. Not exactly a day to drive 710mi. Managed a whopping 13.1mpg

Hopefully it will total my truck here in Wichita. Insurance >> having to sell.

If you define an office where your secretary is

I'll be there Monday night Well shit, I'm back in Manhattan right now. And I'm in Wichita. God damn the food choices here are terrible.

x2 Not that I disagree with the statement, but given your experience or lack thereof Deepsubboy I am skeptical that you have even heard one. Have you?

still doesn't narrow down "best" anymore

If you think you can hear the damping factor difference.... in particular in a car, on a sub, regularly in the trunk... no way. Not at all worth the efficiency cost either, for subs there is really never a reason to do anything that isn't as efficient as a Class D.

You should use a sine tone for setting gains. It is really hard to see distortion with pink noise on an oscope

Do beware if you are shooting for a 2ohm final load that there are not as many choices as a 1ohm so before ordering I'd personally think about the amp a little more. No need at all to run A/B on a sub. The extra power consumption really doesn't make sense actually. Class D would be a better choice. Definitely a myth on the accuracy between the 10 & 12, no worries get the 12 if you have room.

best, lol

Considering your goals, it wasn't really necessary to discuss the sub so I didn't ask. A 10" Icon will be fine to keep up with things and blend really nicely. As for the cutout diameter and such, this is a good example and perhaps option if it fits: http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...products_id=567 Let's nail down the space requirements and I'll put a few options together. *For the crossover, I am leaning towards using the 880 sub out to the Icon, mid bandpass for the midbass, and HP for the midrange and tweet using the amplifier to bandpass the midrange and HP the tweet.*

Ryan, I didn't think to ask earlier. How much room do you have in your kicks? Is there space for a large format tweeter and a 4" driver?

Woot!! That happened sooner than I expected. The plan is to tear the car apart at the beginning of the summer and have it done by the end of it Josh's might be done by then what's the current status of that? He had to pull the motor 3 different times and finally has that mess worked out. The headliner is in, he is finishing the deadening and window adjustments this weekend. In a couple weeks it goes back to the paint booth to re-do what isn't perfect. And it should be driving on the road here in a few weeks. I gave up helping since it seemed like he would only work when I came over. He finally got over that and attacked it, so it might actually get finished. wow, hopefully it'll be done soon He is really particular, so hopefully it will be driveable soon. Finished is at least a year away. Take notes, don't do everything at once. The way you are building yours makes WAY more sense to me. heh, I just want to be able to drive it and not have it out of commission for several years And in the end yours can be just as nice or nicer. Personally I think his idea of doing the body work first was fucking stupid. Told him that from the get go, but he wanted it all done at once since that is how builders do it. Conveniently for him it is a "bolt on" car as nothing is custom which would require a different order. Either way I'd do mechanicals completely then take it apart and paint/detail.