///M5

Since they are so common, please name a good pair. Something worth buying. Good luck.

You're right...... Sean (is that your name? ) However I just wanted to show him that it might not be a bad idea to buy a 3way comp and move to Semi active (or full active) whenever he feels he can tackle it. At first I was using the full passive mode with a US Amps Hybrid Tube... Then went with the Milbert (still in full passive). Only a year ago was I able to design a satisfying system. Tuning happened only 2 weeks ago. Learned so much in the last couple of weeks on DIYmobileaudio forum. Kelvin be wary of what you read on diyma, ever since Ant took over from NP that site has gone to hell in a hand basket. A few troopers on there but more people of useless misinformation. I can't even handle reading it anymore although hidden in the mess there is good information and some good people.

I'd rather have a 9811, 9813, 9833, 9835, 9887 and many more. Definitely not the best yet.

fixed, not a recommendation I hope

A picture would be worth a thousand words, I'd like to see the interference and what difference it would make going to a 3" and small format.

Be a waste. If you want to do a rudimentary two way, just get a set of 3" or 4" full range drivers and use them with the Mach5's. Make sure your amps can handle the cross points though.

Perhaps you should re-evaluate the install on your current mids. Midbass is hugely a function of install. HUGELY.

Both are stupid sizes and if I could wager I would say no way in hell they will be building a 6"x8" driver nor a 6x9.

she's 82 and likes young men

delayaTop

I thought you lived in Pennsylvania, not Pennsyltucky

Man, I miss having chinese. In other news wifey broke passenger sun visor on the car. Huh, no chinese in MD? Huh, how'd she managed teh smoothness?

What makes them a bitch? Do they have the bolts instead of lug nuts? The holes seem small, but that's what thin-wall sockets are for . Mine has very long bolts and it can be pesky to take on or take off the tire. lack of airtools ftl.

Geee, great. The fackin' wind was unbelievable. Not exactly a day to drive 710mi. Managed a whopping 13.1mpg

Hopefully it will total my truck here in Wichita. Insurance >> having to sell.

If you define an office where your secretary is

I'll be there Monday night Well shit, I'm back in Manhattan right now. And I'm in Wichita. God damn the food choices here are terrible.

x2 Not that I disagree with the statement, but given your experience or lack thereof Deepsubboy I am skeptical that you have even heard one. Have you?

still doesn't narrow down "best" anymore

If you think you can hear the damping factor difference.... in particular in a car, on a sub, regularly in the trunk... no way. Not at all worth the efficiency cost either, for subs there is really never a reason to do anything that isn't as efficient as a Class D.

You should use a sine tone for setting gains. It is really hard to see distortion with pink noise on an oscope

Do beware if you are shooting for a 2ohm final load that there are not as many choices as a 1ohm so before ordering I'd personally think about the amp a little more. No need at all to run A/B on a sub. The extra power consumption really doesn't make sense actually. Class D would be a better choice. Definitely a myth on the accuracy between the 10 & 12, no worries get the 12 if you have room.

best, lol

Considering your goals, it wasn't really necessary to discuss the sub so I didn't ask. A 10" Icon will be fine to keep up with things and blend really nicely. As for the cutout diameter and such, this is a good example and perhaps option if it fits: http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_i...products_id=567 Let's nail down the space requirements and I'll put a few options together. *For the crossover, I am leaning towards using the 880 sub out to the Icon, mid bandpass for the midbass, and HP for the midrange and tweet using the amplifier to bandpass the midrange and HP the tweet.*