///M5

I'd underlap the tweet and mid even with those slopes and maybe even between the SLS and RS. Ballpark ranges sound just fine though. It will be a hell of a setup.

I've never seen off axis plots for them, but agree that they could be a sweet solution. Should be easy to sell afterwards and perform more than adequately for what you need. You'll still need a tweeter that can play fairly low as upper end extension is not a facet of the Dayton drivers. I've inferred from other reading that a fairly steep slope at 2.5k is probably near the top end of that driver. I haven't personally heard it, but do have other RS drivers and they are always nice performers for the dollar.

Woot!! That happened sooner than I expected. The plan is to tear the car apart at the beginning of the summer and have it done by the end of it Josh's might be done by then what's the current status of that? He had to pull the motor 3 different times and finally has that mess worked out. The headliner is in, he is finishing the deadening and window adjustments this weekend. In a couple weeks it goes back to the paint booth to re-do what isn't perfect. And it should be driving on the road here in a few weeks. I gave up helping since it seemed like he would only work when I came over. He finally got over that and attacked it, so it might actually get finished. wow, hopefully it'll be done soon He is really particular, so hopefully it will be driveable soon. Finished is at least a year away. Take notes, don't do everything at once. The way you are building yours makes WAY more sense to me.

Boo Infinishit

I was quoted $3200/year on the '03 M3, and $2800 on the '01 CLK55. That's just absurd. The M3 has the Corvette problem in that they get crashed. The M5 doesn't so it is way cheaper to insure. The S6 was going to be $75 or so per month and that was a 2007. I would guess that generically Minneapolis should be worse than where you live, but I am in probably a better age bracket.

I'll be there Monday night

Depends on whether or not you want to use the same driver in the summer when you do your kicks. Considering the short amount of time, I'd buy something cheap and used and just sell them when you get closer.

There are other choices as well. How long before you build your kicks.

Pads and Rotors from Zeckhausen. The Axxis Deluxe stop the dusting problem and he should have some cheap rotors. It's a bm'er so they are ultra easy to slap on. Just checked and their price on the stop tech slotted rotors are not bad. But then I would need to do all 4 instead of just 2. I wouldn't spend the money on the slots, just get the cheapies. Not like you regularly run into fading situations in your DD.

Why a fake Mark 8 when for the same price you can get the real deal? It's not really in the same league as the Lincoln, but I'll break it down for you. 1. It's cheap. Insurance and repair costs will be less on the Buick 2. Better mileage. 3. More room, bigger trunk. 4. Better in the winter months. 5. The 3800 series engines are one of the few things GM got right. I've had several of these and they are damn near indestructible. 6. It's cheap. Damn air suspension. If it weren't for that I'd be surprised on the repairs, but that is a big fucker. Insurance was high on mine now that I think about it. Mileage is a new one, I was always shocked at how good the Mark 8's were. Both of mine averaged 24+ on the highway. In town not so much, but I bought them to go down the road as it was during a time when 60,000mi/yr was a low year for me. 4.6 DOHC >> 3.8 Hard to argue with the "it's cheap" as it is a lot of car for $4k. I just have to rib you though as out of all people buying a GM I didn't think it would be you. I'm sorry, I should have worded it better. They should have originally price it at $4K, and I'll deal from there. I wouldn't pay 4K for that thing. I've owned quite a bit of GM products in the past. Granted 90% of them were winter beaters, but most were cheap as I got a new beater every year, and well, maintaining the 3800 is damn near as cheap as a 350. There just so many of them out there that parts are readily available anywhere and at value prices. When I say cheap, I am talking the grand scheme of things. Hell, just mentioning the word Lincoln automatically jacks the price up. We all know it's a glorified Mercury, but they still find suit to charge for it. If I wanted to spend $3k a year on insurance, I'd be driving a fine German automobile. My M5 is $42/month btw.

I don't like the way Michelin's break loose, not very predictable compared to other tires.

You don't usually rotate the tires on performance cars...you just wear them out, and quickly to. Normally somewhere around the 10-15k mark and mine are always shot. They wear evenly so no need to rotate. So no, the rotating part won't be a bitch the replacement price will be. 10-15 on something say, like a Pilot Sport PS2 or like a Michelin Pilot Sport A/S? I figured I could get 20-30 on a set of Pilot Sport A/S's? Maybe? A/S will last longer, but getting 30 would be a stretch. 25 perhaps. The BFG KDW seem to be wearing really well on my car.

Bridge the 200.4 away. Running a pair of those amps on your front stage should make you happy. The Ns3's will take way more than you think. Realize their power spec is rated for a frequency range that you won't be playing them in. I figure they were a good recommendation as a temporary fill for really cheap until you can get your kicks made. I am not much a dome mid guy though and would surely rather have the 12m than the IR3.

why?! I am selling the car and truck. Have to pull the gear first. Not sure on the fire sale, I might wait until I have another car as then I will know for sure what I might need. I might also just run the car stock or do a sub-less 3 way up front.

You don't usually rotate the tires on performance cars...you just wear them out, and quickly to. Normally somewhere around the 10-15k mark and mine are always shot. They wear evenly so no need to rotate. So no, the rotating part won't be a bitch the replacement price will be.

Your welcome. If that isn't loud enough there are many other solutions, but that should get you going without another blown driver anyways.

Next weekend all the stereo gear comes out of all my rides. :eek"

Again, I want to point out that is not the order for everyone so for others reading this thread don't take that as an installation manual. This is just a specific set of help for BigJon's installation and equipment. The ideas can be used though, in particular the one of listening to only each specific driver. I also in the process of listening to each driver would switch the phase of them +/- each independently and see what the effect is on the system...but that is for another day.

Hard to guestimate without knowing anything about that mid...it looks like it should play to 2k but perhaps higher. The higher it will play the louder you'll be able to get the tweet without huge underlaps. So what you should do (note not in general for everyone, just for what you have here): 1) Set the gains on your midrange amplifier channels via an o-scope. Set the gains on the tweeter channel to zero and have the tweeters unplugged. 2) Since you are trying to get loud and are a bit of a basshead, set the HP on the midrange to 80hz at 12dB and the high pass at 1800hz at 12dB. Lower will sound way better, but will cost you volume as the speaker will get stressed earlier. If no bass notes stress it here, then you can turn it down. 3) Listen to some music just through the mids. Make sure they aren't breaking up or that you don't have any issues, wail on them a bit and make sure that they don't break up, smell, or seem to have any issues. It is imperative that you do this with your sub and tweeters off as for your ears strain in the driver will be much easier to hear this way. If everything is okay, move on. If they break up on bass notes try turning the HP crossover slope up to 24dB. If that still doesn't help, turn up the crossover to closer to 100hz (eek!). 4) Go back to listening at moderate levels. Actually take a break first to let your ears rest. Listen to something that has a nice full midrange and preferably a lot of vocals. Vocals make breakup and cone nastiness easier to here in particular for untrained ears. Now start raising the HP frequency in jumps of a couple hundred hz and re-listen to the song you just listened to. Keep going up until you can hear the speakers start to ruin the way things sound. 5) At this point you should report back what frequency you want these to play to, but generically speaking you can move forward. 6) Turn the tweeter crossover to the LP of the midrange +500hz. As an example if your mid is now playing from 80hz-2600hz, turn the tweeter crossover to 3100hz at 12dB. 7) Again at a moderate volume. Listen to ONLY your tweeters and midrange. At this point the tweeters will seem quiet. Pick the same vocal music you were listening to before and slowly turn up the tweeter gain until it blends nicely with the mids. 8) Now unplug the mids and listen to the tweeters alone. Pick some music that you like to play loud and listen to only the tweeters. You are listening for strain which is when they cannot reproduce the music very well. With each song turn up the music and listen for strain. Keep turning it up to the range where you would normally max out your volume control for your listening. (This better not be full max, but don't cheat yourself if you will truly put it there). Listen for stress. If you hear any turn up the crossover +500Hz and try again. Continue until there is no strain. 9) Turn your sub and mids back on and listen to the whole system. Let me know what you don't like now and what your settings are and we can try to improve it. It should sound pretty good and be about all you can get out of what you have volume wise, but depending on the frequency range you are lacking there are options. *note all other settings, eq, t/a, bass boost and everything should be set to 0 the whole time you do the above While listening slowly **note 2, if you then add the above tweaks to compensate you should again listen to each driver independently and make sure it isn't stressed on music that would stress them the most.

Not really comparable drivers. The SLS is a low end machine, but falls on its face above 200-300hz. The RS is a midrange that can dig pretty deep. The RS is used in a couple 2 way home designs and is geared to be able to do that, the SLS is geared to be a sub that is really light, cost effective, and can stretch on the top. The DLS is somewhere in between, but a heck of a compromise and more money to boot. Just doesn't make sense to me. Since you are talking 3 way I'd don't see why you'd compromise on any of the drivers. In your case personally, I'd get the SLS and buy a 3 or 4 to slap next to it with the expectations that it will be moved to the kicks. If you tear through the 3, just buy a couple spares. The Aura is a great driver for next to no money. Once you move to the kicks you could put something mean in there like the Scan 12m and have a hell of a setup. Way better than you would if you compromised on the midbass.

Why a fake Mark 8 when for the same price you can get the real deal? It's not really in the same league as the Lincoln, but I'll break it down for you. 1. It's cheap. Insurance and repair costs will be less on the Buick 2. Better mileage. 3. More room, bigger trunk. 4. Better in the winter months. 5. The 3800 series engines are one of the few things GM got right. I've had several of these and they are damn near indestructible. 6. It's cheap. Damn air suspension. If it weren't for that I'd be surprised on the repairs, but that is a big fucker. Insurance was high on mine now that I think about it. Mileage is a new one, I was always shocked at how good the Mark 8's were. Both of mine averaged 24+ on the highway. In town not so much, but I bought them to go down the road as it was during a time when 60,000mi/yr was a low year for me. 4.6 DOHC >> 3.8 Hard to argue with the "it's cheap" as it is a lot of car for $4k. I just have to rib you though as out of all people buying a GM I didn't think it would be you.

Can you list all your equipment? (hu, amps, speaks)

A small amp is pretty darn plug-n-play and probably would take less time than installing rears which are completely useless anyways.

If that is per pair, instead spend that on one pair and spend the same on an amp for that pair. Fronts with an amp is WAY better than front and rears without.

Why a fake Mark 8 when for the same price you can get the real deal?