///M5

none of those, is the forceaudio registration actually working now?

I was dating a 24 year old when I was 15 so don't worry about it.

I'm goin to redo my front stage and I was going to use either the front channels for highs and midrange with a crossover after the amplifier, and the rear channels for 8" midbass. or the front channels with a 3 way crossover for highs midrange and midbass. What makes 3-way passive not for cars? less control? Crossovers should really be custom built based on mounting configurations. Slopping by with an off the shelf two way is enough of a compromise, once you add a couple more legs to the crossover chain and turn it into a 3 way it is self defeating. Much better to just use a passive 2 way or up the ante and go active.

Multiple drivers right next to each other off the same channel. Make sense? Not at all without knowing why? Because the crossover itself is only part of the equation, you will need eq and t/a capabilities as well.

Major. Active requires one channel of amplification for each driver and the signal is crossed over before the amplifier. Passive requires on channel of amplification per side and the crossover is after the amplifier. 3 ways shouldn't be passive and in a car IMO.

Not so sure that an oscilloscope will help your issues. Listening for fatigue with your ears is your best defense against blowing drivers.

Enjoy! If I wasn't busy I'd come meet ya for dinner.

top, hehe

If I slept that long I'd feel real stupid all day long. My body can't deal with that much sleep.

I would advise against that. 1) Running a 3 way passive set IMO makes very little sense and buys you no benefit 2) Your budget is too small to look at any 3 way worth buying, if you can only spend $250-300 a 2 way is all you can muster *unless of course you are speaking about running active and already have the amplification and crossover

Oh, huge low tuned baby. 12hz and humpin'

The people are worse than the area. Obviously I am not referring to all the people and most definitely specifically not you.

My expectations would be that the Seas blend easier and have more midbass, but I think from your settings this might be the case. In the process of switching to the Ultra's you turned down the sub which by default is the same as increasing the gain to the front stage. This of course will make your sub which was overpowering your mids blend better and at the same time give you the response of voices being at eye level. As a reference here are your settings pasted from above: Seas Sub (LPF) 63hz with a 24db slope and reverse phase Mids (bandpassed) HPF 63hz with a 18db slope LPF 2.5khz with a 12db slope Highs (HPF) 2.5khz with a 24db slope Ultras Sub (LPF) 63hz with a 24db slope Mids (bandpassed) HPF 80hz with a 18db slope LPF 3.15khz with a 12db slope Highs (HPF) 3.15khz with a 24 slope The Seas CA you should have playing much higher and with a shallower slope. The LPG's will break up like hell at only 2.5khz (at least you used a high slope, but raising the point and lowering the slope would help your response a lot). As a reference, I think mine are at 4k+ HP if not more and any less and they get nasty. The Seas play really nice up to near 4k, is it ideal as a midrange not at all but you could have run them higher. My guess is that if you put the Seas & LPG combo back in with your new settings, although I would play the Seas much lower than 80hz and use shallower slopes across the board that your results will change and you will much prefer them. This of course is the difficulty with active setups though. Without a ton of time and an ear for it regularly the results can be far from what they could be if they were ideal. The Ultra set sounds like an easy set to work with and being only 6.5" fits a different space. It is nice to hear that you are having a good experience with them as I am a very firm believer that for a first time active sticking to easy drivers (ie paper cone mid, and a tweet that plays low) is very beneficial. Had you upped to the Seas Excel in your initial install my guess is that you'd like the Ultra's even more than them, even though I consider the Excel a far superior driver to the CA with the wrong settings it can sound horrible where the CA can pull it off anyways. So on to being helpful with your current setup. Listen to each driver on its own, start with 6db slopes (except the sub which you can do much steeper) and pick your frequency range that you like for the drivers. Then start integrating them. Hopefully in the first part of the test you will find that you like them naturally underlapped which will make combining them much easier. Either way, definitely let us know how things go and how we can help.

Why not a 6th order?

IB is an alignment I haven't tried mine in yet, but would think it should be fine. If I didn't have a pickup that it was in, or a car that I refuse to cut up it would be IB. I'd say go for it. Picking mids/tweets is more fun than subs IMO.

Please re-try your answer without ellipses and in full sentences. I am not translating jibberish.

Were the initial settings what you were using with the Seas/LPG setup? If not, do you have those as well. Also, did you change your gain settings and if so how were they set? My main curiosity stems from the fact that I have found the CA18 to be about the easiest 6/7" mid to blend with a sub that I have ever played with. Not at all that I don't believe in your setup it is different, but I'd like to know why since there are many people that can benefit from easy to use drivers.

I think its fun, great place to drive aggressive as people actually know how to merge and drive.

Was the bass level in the songs nearly the same before you ported the box? If so, I'd check your port tuning and assume you are ported way high.

Chicago is green in the summer and way warmer than MN in the winter. It doesn't even hit the top 10 in windiest cities rankings, but Rochester hits #3. Of course I grew up in Moorhead/Fargo and moved to Chicago from there. The three years I lived in Chicago I never wore a winter coat, only a sport coat or suit and was never cold (excluding when I went snowboarding I pulled out a shell for that). And if you want culture, damn. Everything you can get in New York, but way easier to get to, generically the food is way better, the people are midwest nice, it is extremely safe for a big city, and it is right on the lake. It puts other cities half its size and bigger to shame. The closest thing we have to European culture and population density in this country while maintaining its American charm. Oh, yeah, if you are Chitown nooblet driving there sucks for you.

Don't forget that crossovers are not brick walls.Brick walls, not that I know I would use them if I had them, depends on how they would perform, but does anyone know of any brick wall crossovers for car use yet? I haven't seen steeper filters than 4th order for cars. I have never seen anything steep than 24/db Exactly, err, almost. As I stated they aren't brick walls, but the DCX2496 does do 48dB and I have seen 96dB slopes which is pretty close but still not a brick wall.

Same price? The IXL is sold with almost no margin and the AA from a B&M store, that being said if they are truly the same price it should give you more than enough information on what to choose.

And every car is 100% different so again the only answer is maybe. You need to try it in different positions, but of course if you are a lzayfuck you could just give up and do whatever. I guarantee whatever won't be as good as you trying different things though.

Your decisions are based on wrong information. With an SQ setup you shouldn't hear anything outside the car, which isn't your prerogative. You want the opposite of SQ, rethink your requests and ask a better question without terminology you don't understand. A quick read of the noob posting rules would help you a ton.

Read the gain setting tutorial, then ask questions...