///M5

I didn't drive the Turbo, but the Turbo S had to keep itself in check via the traction computer like crazy so I am thinking that going down to only 450hp would be okay. The Turbo S is a $20k adder and puts it way out of range. The Turbo itself will be a stretch, but if that deal is as they state it is I might just pull it off. Be a hell of a redneck garage having two sport ute's. lol. If all goes well the Audi A6, M5, and Silverado will turn into a Volvo XC90 for the wife & son and a Cayenne Turbo for me. I think I can live with that.

And yes, I've already called that dealership. Call me back internet sales bitches!!

The air suspension rules, but I definitely want that shit CPO'd. Makes the ride height not look so friggin ghey. I really like this one and it is within my lease parameters for work. http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=c...;standard=false Same color as my bassboat too, that would be sick towing it with the Turbo

Allows the car and truck to go so that when I find a project vehicle I can then do something with it. Although between the baby and the economy the project will be pushed out a bit.

what did you drive? I drove both of these. Obviously the TS was what got me jumping up and down but after I come to my senses we shall see what happens. There is a normal T in my range in Chitown. http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=c...;standard=false http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=c...;standard=false

Mid-life crisis here I come

*didn't expect to like the soccer mom vehicle, but...*

Not for the first time, just do a 2 way.

Is any setup worth doing?

Time for lunch, to pick up my downpayment on the S6, and to drive captain soccer mom's car.

SPL and sealed aren't really conducive to each other. The Fi SSD or Rli10 will be better than the RE. Personally I'd lean towards the Rli, but either will be impressive.

Just get the BTL like you planned, put it in a big ass box and tune it to 35hz or so

what do you mean? yeah i know there are much lower tones than what i listen to, but thats what i call low. I didn't say you don't call what you listen to low, it just isn't low so looking for an optimal setup to "play the lows" makes no sense at all. What you would end up with is MUCH LESS output at the frequencies that you call low. You really have to learn to separate what you think is what you want from what is ideal for what you are looking for. You do NOT want SQ and you do not want LOWS. What your craving is a setup that plays really loud from the mid 30's - 50's in Hz and potentially even much higher as a lot of people in your shoes will play their subs all the way up to 120hz. If you truly were in to the lows and SQ you'd have your sub crossed over to play up to 40hz maybe, but that wouldn't help you considering the "lows" in your music are mostly higher than that.

For what purpose?

1991

Should fit with room to spare Actually you have to buy one of theirs and they are nearly a G. Pretty much crosses it off the list. DIY baby seat. You mentioned a custom driver's seat, why not a custom baby seat ? It would be many DIY seats as they change size faster than I do.

Glad your okay. ...and that he has insurance.

?? for the same dough the 2 way should actually be the best. Think about it, you are looking at budget speakers. For the same money will the one with more drivers and more crossover components that they have to cheapen to meet the price point sound better or the one with less. In this case for sure, less is more. Obviously I'd recommend a listen for anything like this as all theories aside sometimes manufacturers try to sell a crap product via marketing instead of just engineering a good solution.

You will have no regrets with the IXL. Someone didn't read what you asked for as the AQ or DD does not at all fit with what you are looking for.

andaTOPbitches

Can't drive that in the winter. I am bored with the M so it is going. I just don't see you buying something that would lose value as fast as the Charger. Hence the reason I won't be getting a new SHO next year. Me either. Still the fastest car I've ever owned, but mine had a lot of help from Vadim. The other two I had were still impressive though.

You can find a way. The question is, can YOU fit in there? LOL, true. Not really well enough, but a custom seat is always a possibility.

Should fit with room to spare Actually you have to buy one of theirs and they are nearly a G. Pretty much crosses it off the list.

your thoughts? Hell of a lot of fun, but it is too heavy. Sort of the same problem with the S6. I miss my 944T. Perhaps I should be buying a Lotus as a second car and keeping the truck.

Ok That I can handle, but what I cant get is how does it improve the sound seems like you are cutting out some of the frequency. Does this cut out some of the bleeding of the speaker ranges from the lower slope on the crossover everything is @ 12db will go to 18 but was advised to stick with 12 Just curious, What does it actually do for you, sound wise? Actually the opposite, you are currently cutting out frequencies by promoting both constructive and destructive interference depending on the phase of the output. IE some notes are louder and some are softer since the speakers are playing the same frequencies creating anomalies in your response. Don't forget that crossovers are not brick walls. The trick is to get the rolloffs to line up. Unlike the previous poster, I would not recommend 18. Actually if possible I'd use 6db but then you are going to have to underlap even further to get the same result. It is NOT unusual for the best sound to come with a rather large difference underlapped. IE having your mid only play to 2000hz and your tweeter from 3500hz and up. Really it always sounds better to underlap than overlap. Your problem with lowering the sub crossover is that your midbass can't keep up at 63hz. You need to treat your doors better and potentially get a beefier mid.