///M5

your thoughts? Hell of a lot of fun, but it is too heavy. Sort of the same problem with the S6. I miss my 944T. Perhaps I should be buying a Lotus as a second car and keeping the truck.

Ok That I can handle, but what I cant get is how does it improve the sound seems like you are cutting out some of the frequency. Does this cut out some of the bleeding of the speaker ranges from the lower slope on the crossover everything is @ 12db will go to 18 but was advised to stick with 12 Just curious, What does it actually do for you, sound wise? Actually the opposite, you are currently cutting out frequencies by promoting both constructive and destructive interference depending on the phase of the output. IE some notes are louder and some are softer since the speakers are playing the same frequencies creating anomalies in your response. Don't forget that crossovers are not brick walls. The trick is to get the rolloffs to line up. Unlike the previous poster, I would not recommend 18. Actually if possible I'd use 6db but then you are going to have to underlap even further to get the same result. It is NOT unusual for the best sound to come with a rather large difference underlapped. IE having your mid only play to 2000hz and your tweeter from 3500hz and up. Really it always sounds better to underlap than overlap. Your problem with lowering the sub crossover is that your midbass can't keep up at 63hz. You need to treat your doors better and potentially get a beefier mid.

I did drive a Challenger SRT a coupl weeks ago, but just for chits and giggles

Can't drive that in the winter. I am bored with the M so it is going. I just don't see you buying something that would lose value as fast as the Charger. He's referring to a 68. It will increase in value

The biggest difference between them will be in your box and installation choices. A BL will do more than you need.

SO MUCH better without badges

Can't drive that in the winter. I am bored with the M so it is going.

zomg. doo eet! that car is the bees knees Sean. Just not sure it is what I want. Two days ago you were raving about it. Just drive the M daily and buy the Pantera already. That's really a somewhat logical idea. I thought the suspension was hard on you and not that comfortable for long driving? I don't drive that much anymore. Just to the airport.

TOP

It is priced $5k for todays market, but I've always really like the 996.

Or sell the M and buy this http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=p...mp;rdpage=thumb I can put a babyseat in there can't I?

zomg. doo eet! that car is the bees knees Sean. Just not sure it is what I want. Two days ago you were raving about it. Just drive the M daily and buy the Pantera already. That's really a somewhat logical idea.

The Peerless SLS will be enough to make your doors unhappy

Do you need to stay in a 7 or are you willing to go 8

You DON'T listen to music with lows.

zomg. doo eet! that car is the bees knees Sean. Just not sure it is what I want.

Your truck looks like shit with badges. And as everyone knows, "badges, we don't need to stinking badges"

We'll see, if he folds another 3k I'm in

As an example: Tweets are crossed over @ 3.5 khrz Mids @ 63Hrz to 3.2 khrz Subs @ 50 and below

Personally if you have a midrange and the Poly, I would sell the Poly's and upgrade the midbass to a real dedicated midbass since it will only need to play from 40hz to 200hz or so.

That headunit has a sub out, mid out, and tweeter out. Send the tweeter out to your tweeter amp and t/a appropriately. Send the mid out bandpassed to encompass the midbass and midrange. - use the amplifier to HP the midrange and LP the midbass thus bandpassing both drivers. They can share t/a from the h/u Use the sub output for the sub.

So you are using a 2way+ headunit and the amp to do a 3way+? (+ = sub) In this case, I'd use the portion of the amplifiers crossover for the drivers I have located next to each other and the headunit for the rest. On a side, 660hz is a pretty high HP for a midrange. Personally in a 3 way I'd like to see as much of the acoustic spectrum coming out of that driver. 5k is pretty low on the tweeter for that reason as well. What are your mounting locations and drivers?

nice input, and correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't true that if you are trying to play a woofer or "break it in" but going easy so that it doesn't move a whole lot, you are therefore counteracting the cooling system in the speaker and really just heating up the vc? or maybe that's just getting to in depth of a speaker for this thread... Thermal break in isn't required, although personally I'd want to thermal cycle the driver right away so that if it needs to be warrantied you are covered. Mechanical break in is all that really happens. The suspension is tighter right from the factory than it will ever be. The goal of a "break in" is just to soften these parts so that the driver will come to its equilibrium and no longer be "tight". No need to baby it during this step, in fact it will go faster if you are stretching things out to near its mechanical limits.

Just called and cancelled the deal. They still want to hold it for me though. DOH, bastards

Plus, I haven't had a car loan in more than 10 years. Having one now would piss me off. I am a firm believer in the if you can't pay for it, don't get it. Keeps my spending grounded.