///M5

Or rip them to your phone or CD. I carry a test tone CD with me always in the car

ROFL

Never looked...for Windows though it works great. The Android/Apple Function Generator apps sometimes do wacky things with signals. For pure tones they are typically fine, but when you make "noise" with them don't expect it to measure or be right. FuncGen for Android will give you stereo signals that you can generate on the fly.

20,31.5,50,80,125, 200,314,500,800,1250,2000,3150,5000,8000,12500,20000 Are all that you need. Can either make Left, Right & Stereo or use the system to shut off the drivers to compare. I personally like tracks so you can do Left & Right in rapid succession. Go through once and write down all the discrepancies and then go back and start making changes to the eq.

I just use Audacity. It is free and will let you generate noise, tones, and mix pretty much anything you'd ever want to.

Is that with T/A on or off? I'd try it both ways. The T/A the auto should be able to set....but that I never checked. Wasn't sure if it allows you to see what you set. You can listen with your subs on, just don't make too many decisions on what the front stage is doing while they are playing. Listening to every single driver independently is also a benefit as it really gives you an idea of what is going on. The other thing you can do for balance, phase and system understanding is generate test tones and listen to them. Here I'd listen to each driver independently and in pairs. Since you have only 16 defined bands of EQ I'd pick tones right at those bands. Will let you see at what frequencies you may need some eq.

You suck at quoting...I didn't type any of that.

Christopher doesn't have your reading comprehension difficulties, he'll be fine.

The best car stereo I have heard in the past 4 years ran the auras. As with any car audio install is everything.

You said easier...it isn't, but had you tried with both pieces of gear you would have known that. The prs is extremely easy to use and you don't have to be in the back seat to adjust stuff. Somewhat one of my first rules of active. If you can't adjust from the listening position it is a fail.

It showed up when I clicked lol

All settings on the amp off too. Gain or gain balance per channel is not included in that statement btw.

No. Make sure your amps are run at full range. If you use both the crossover on the amp and the headunit your phase will be screwed up even more. There is NO reason in your setup to have anything in the amp but a gain stage. The rest will just make it worse. Sounds like you have the Auto off. Do yourself a favor and shut off your sub and listen only to your front stage for a few days. Adding bass muddies up how your ears respond and your brain listens.

Que?? You do realize he has probably the best interface in a headunit EVER for beginners to setup. The features and utility of the PRS are awesome. While I prefer a parametric eq, for someone who has never eq'd a system they are amazingly confusing and the PRS includes 16 bands of INDEPENDENT Left/Right eq which is 100% necessary for setting up a nice frequency response and stage. No way to nail a car if your eq is applied equally to left and right. In comparison his amps controls are 20+ years behind.

Unplug everything but the tweeters. I always listen to every driver on its own and then every driver with every phase possibility independently. Both before and after T/A. Those tweeters have balls and can take some heat (in particular if you don't have the first run where the quality control was a bit iffy), but just because they can doesn't mean that is what they will sound good doing. EQ2 should be the network EQ. Perhaps Pioneer hides the auto eq settings from you...but I don't remember as I sold the vehicle mine was in more than 6.5 years ago and when I tried the Auto setup it was horseshit. No T/A, no EQ, and cross points set at 12dB and using the Fs of the tweeter and a generic 63Hz on the sub KILLED the auto setup. Embarassing how bad it was.

Exactly why I said to describe what is wrong with what you have. I know you said it was hard, but gave us one thing and that part was already easy to make better. There are MANY more little things just like that

Cancellation is a bitch and autoeq and setup is useless.

Switch the phase of one of the kids RIGHT now and report the results.

Nice score...again!

Ignore what others think is good....in particular in a car. I'd bet no one you run into will have a "good" system. If you want a reference I'd start with home audio. Of course the most cost effective home audio is a good set of headphones. I personally have some AKG cans and some custom molded in-the-ear monitors which both absolutely destroy ANY car I have ever heard. All that being said, it doesn't matter if headphones sound better or worse to you, what matters is what YOU like. The benefit of a headphone demo though is you will hear all the dynamics you might be missing which will let you of course then compare. Do beware, you are heading down a slippery slope of no satisfaction ever once you start to really analytically listen. While it is slippery it is also a great ride though so don't be scared. I sold my PRS almost 5 years ago. The EQ on it is graphic and my memory says it is rather easy to find...more so than the crossover points. 16 bands of Left and 16 bands of right. Our interest is only in the bands that are not at zero.

The first answer is the obvious one. There is no such thing as box rise. The box will surely have an impedance curve but this means a rise and a fall. While this curve will definitely mean your amp is delivering different amounts of power along the curve it is not rise. It is really sad this is a misnomer in the car audio world. Stems from some history in single note competition. A fart box will surely also have a curve. When playing a single note you are only concerned with the impedance at that note in that particular install. That isn't rise either, but it is higher than nominal in almost every fart box so some moron keyed the term box rise and started to mislead noobs all over the internet. Beware of nonsense spewed at other forums. They are full of people who repeat what they have heard and state "rules of thumb" which none of are correct in car audio. The exception being that as a rule of thumb you can discount everything you read on other car audio sites.

Is that the settings the autosetup chose? Did it do some wacky looking eq up top? Your logic was almost sound. If there was no windshield, dash, drivers window, etc then on axis would be golden. It is shocking how much of the sound in a car is reflected.

I've never heard a pillar tweeter that sounded best on axis. The caveat being I haven't heard every car in every situation. When I ran the RS28's in my house they were on axis Can you share what cross points and slopes you have everything at right now?

J - this was maybe 3 months ago. I can't remember when I finally bought the 70-200, but it was after Canon release their new mirrorless camera which was pretty recent.

I am transient atm though so all my focus is on learning HVAC. Fucking incompetent professionals. ROFL