///M5

How did you choose the tweeter aiming? My guess is that they are a bit too on axis, but let's listen to some music first and start cleaning things up! Is there a baffle the mid is mounted to? Looks like you've treated the doors.

Listen to one of those home 8 and tweet systems with the tweeter facing a different direction. It would be enlightening

I guess I am slow. Didn't see that response. To be clear I used quotes since I don't know the extent, but he is more than a friend of the company. He is also pretty sure that I'd respond don't use the Blues 8 with a tweeter in your truck...but I'd say that about any 8 pretty much without being more extreme.

You need something beefier than a tweeter to mate with an 8" driver. This is compounded by the terrible dash layout and stock tweeter location in your truck. Going with an 8 in the Silverado can be done if you do a 3 way, but then it is a compromise as well. Probably require kicks for the mid/tweet and a whole new processor and a big mess. All this and it may not address your concern as well. Randal is "sponsored" by Blues Audio so he probably won't offer up anything other than that if he even does. In my case while there are plenty of monster 8's and ways to do them in a 2 way, I don't see how in that truck without getting you frustrated and back here. Btw, the only possible way you could would require something other than the PRS for a crossover as its points don't lie nicely with a full range driver. Let's try and fix your install first, then discuss what you want to make better and then spend money. Any other order really won't help.

Have to modify the door skin, but not a problem. A 7" tucks nicely.

Times a shitload!!!

I've had 4 of them. Okay not 94 but Yammy 6 SHO's. Last one I had was retarded running lots of boost. I love them. The automatic isn't an option imo

At some point I will have you listen to EVERY driver independently and in every combination, but for starters I would do both with and without sub. No matter what I am sure your sub will overpower the mids as deep midbass from a 6.5" compared to output from something with a much larger cone isn't going to happen. That is a foregone conclusion however so what is important is to find the areas you need improvement so we can improve them. Adding a second set of drivers in the kicks has a great chance of only making it worse so that is the thing we would try last...and if you do it HAS to be the same mid as the door. No matter what you will not be adding a second set of tweeters as that would really be destructive to everything you have tried to accomplish so far.

As for your not knowing how to describe it. Please work on this. Go play some music (not spoken word and digital beats) but actual full band and listen for what seems out of balance and describe it. Lots of people like to use the Live Eagles Hotel California for this as it has space in the music, has really hard to reproduce drums, and is generally a pretty balanced recording. I personally would use something else, but something you are not super familiar with but still know is best.

Any pictures of the inner doors? Midbass REQUIRES you seal off the big huge hole in your door so that the back wave doesn't interfere with the front. The goal is to get it as IB as possible.

The auto setting on the PRS is awful. It will do it, but it will REALLY screw it up. If you are using that we should first fix your current install as it really doesn't work...in particular in a Silverado. I ran it once in mine to test it, completely pointless option IMO.

Woot. Congrats!

Had an 02 Silverado. Those doors made midbass EASY. Imaging was tough, but everything in a car is a tradeoff!

Waste of money. Your stage will be destroyed along with any imaging you have. First step in fixing you have is understanding where you are lacking. I get you like it loud and want it louder, but what part of the music spectra is missing the most?

That is a multistage, modulating is completely variable ie 64 steps

I have an early two stage furnace and it fails once a year...I don't want an early modulating furnace. Just scared of new tech. Akin to direct injection in a car

Modulating zones you can have in commercial in residential it is only modulating gas nozzles and variable speed fans

Then they aren't pros. After 3 days of research I know more than most of them

I have an early two stage furnace and it fails once a year...I don't want an early modulating furnace. Just scared of new tech. Akin to direct injection in a car

Pipes? Forced air part is so much more tricky than sizing the compressor and running it. Amusingly my compressor lines are too small for a 4 ton and my house size screams for it all. My biggest concern now is 2 stage or modulated. Modulating saves me a lot of zoning headaches but potentially at long term expense in repairs. I just don't trust modulating gas valves.

I am transient atm though so all my focus is on learning HVAC. Fucking incompetent professionals. ROFL

2 more furnace companies today and then I get to buy a car I never see At least the last one actually sent an Engineer. Finally feel like I know something and can trust we are okay.

On a good start, keep it all coming!

Glad you said something, I would have missed the pr0n

J - it is irrelevant if you have made your choice. That being said I literally went in and shot Fuji & Nikon before buying the 70-200. I figure spending that much on a lens wouldn't cost me all that much to completely change platforms. (replacement - selling mine of course) So I tried with mostly open eyes. I say mostly as I wasn't as eager to swap to Nikon as Fuji, but I was surely eager to not own the Canon 70-200. It is FUCKING HUGE. That sucks. That suck is the only suck it has though, the rest is somewhat magic.