///M5

"low wattage" lol. It will do fine.

Anything lower than 1100hz on my D2904's and they complain. I wasn't recommending a 2 or 3 for use in a horn, just a full range so that you actually have midrange as well. You "can" use the Extremis as a mid, but it excels at midbass and I'd try and keep it there.

Good luck!

SQ and hit shouldn't ever be used in a sentence together. In your first post you asked for loud, which to me means you don't care about low. FYI, there are no "lows" in rap. Sure there are exceptions but don't go there.

2000

Fuckers put too much fuel on now they need to pull 20000lbs off while we wait on the tarmacso now

CrackberryTOP

Boarding da plane

Need to do this myself someday so real interested in what you find. I haven't really started looking yet though.

The wires aren't that big of a deal to run. 16ga is fine as you don't have that much length anyways. The damping/absorption you nailed pretty well although I will add there are more effective methods than Ensolite. Your eq will still work since in your case you will be using the amps for their crossovers.

I know you meant what I said, but wanted to clarify.

for the most part i agree, but a few of the newer ones are sexy in their own right. and ryan1, that volvo is pretty pimp all the way around. i'd roll one. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee Thanks Kent! I actually came across another sweet Volvo (4 door) today that I really like as well and has 300 ponies and AWD. It's an S60R. I actually almost bought an S60R a while back, but in the same vein an 03 AMG E55 is something worth looking at. I am scared by the potential repair costs on either though.

arghh.... A lot Have you checked out any local places yet? na havent gone to that one, i seriously doubt they can beat weldingsupply Even with shipping? Sean, ~ How much wire did you use for the big 3 on your Silverado? And how much for Amplifier Power/Ground wire as well if you know. No idea, I just cut string the right length for the big 3 and made the local welding shop make me wires the right length. Not sure on the amp either, but string is cheap

Not sure I follow "what you know" from the pic.

Doesn't mean much coming from someone who thinks GM's are good looking

You need something that plays really, really low. Perhaps using a 2 or 3" mid and no tweet would be a better option. Those are really effective as midbasses but not what I would call mids.

Sitting at a steel mill waiting for them to fix the caster. Hot as shit in here

wow. slight public de de de moment, eh?

But it's night time Maybe after my trip this weekend to Sedona. pussy

Not really.

Accidentally moving an amp and having that happen is seriously shady wiring. Also, it is ALWAYS a good idea to disconnect either your fusing or your battery connections when doing anything. If things were fused correctly you will be lucky and only have fuses to replace, if they weren't well then chalk it up as an expensive lesson.

External ports are fine.

A cap is like a cat, both are useless. Since you see differently, please explain the benefit even in a competition setting or wherever you like.

Perhaps you should drive a Chevy once, my doors needed a shit ton of CLD to stop being huge resonant amplifiers. On the opposite note, and not surprisingly the M5 even when nearly 20 years old fared WAY better. While I agree that the term mass loading is confusing, it is used in NVH engineering to mean anything that shifts a resonance and the damping characteristics of a particular device. In this case of course the mass is the least important but really the damping. Note, I am using the word damping and not dampening. The distinction of course comes to the amount of ringing that the targeted area is left with in the end. With a door or any surface near a radiating driver we obviously want things to be critically damped and not ring. The mass loading in this case both changes the resonance and significantly alters the actual response of the skin which is the final goal. The misnomer of course occurs when translated into normal terms and all that is focused on is the addition of mass which is only a small part of the puzzle. The bottom line is that the true goal is to prevent the panels from resonating and adding energy where we don't want it in the acoustic response. Of course this is completely and 100% different than acoustic absorption which is done in a completely different method. Your description of a cross brace is spot on as well. A ton of coloration of sound definitely comes from a piss poor baffle and is also necessary. Again the mass addition as long as it is a flexible energy absorbent substance can surely help in the damping of the area around the baffle and is required, but adding stiffness to prevent flexure is also important to minimize any coloration.

Perhaps neither then. Ford was dead nuts on, either amp is fine but neither are optimal for your setup although if you have to choose the Kicker is a lot closer.