///M5

Beware most measurement devices are capacitive and will hold voltage and not show it dropping...

One spot where a little forced induction helps a bit

Huh? If you are asking about using amp crossovers you can, but I'd highly recommend using ones in a good headunit instead. One other warning, I guarantee with no tuning that an active setup will sound worse; however, it will have the capability to sound way better. If you do go the active route though I would NEVER recommend buying a set of passive components and running them active. Picking your own drivers is a much better way to go.

Umm, you should read he is looking at the 6" subs not the 12" ones.

It won't tell you much about the mid and lower response, but it will do a ton to determine which tweeter you like which to me is usually the weakness of most comp sets. *other than the given that none of them have enough mid-bass

The 12 works great in my truck, so I am sure the 18 would Excel.

I bet your valves float so bad that your rpm is limited and you couldn't get anywhere near there. Sort of a factory rev limiter on the old stuff.

I much prefer low-end torque to a rpm-er. There was a lot of that too, plenty to rip the tires right off the rims nearly. That car had a serious traction problem and it was still geared to rip on the top end. I never had it over 160 but as it started to get a little hairy up top but the drivetrain had a lot more to go.

Yeah, I don't know about putting a BMW engine in it. Not as bad as a Ford motor I guess But really, how much would something like that cost and how much fab work would I need to do to get it to work? It would be cheaper than building your 6. They just don't wear out and are way overbuilt in the first place. Easy to get 450hp out of the stock tired bottom end and have it still be pretty darn reliable.

Yamaha makes some zingers. They only made the heads/induction...well the top end. All Ford bottom end.

First things first, address the box and the way you have the midbass drivers mounted. The install is always the first place to make improvements only after you have conquered those should you start to eq.

Hell for that matter, the boosted v6 that was in my SHO would make that thing rip. Something sweet about shifting at 8500rpms.

Somewhat, but it will all depend on the amount of space and the enclosure that it goes into. Personally I would throw the tube away and start over.

My sentiments exactly, of course in my case I have the 12 but can make the assumption the 10 is really similar. The lows are awesome, it blends really, really well, and couldn't make it skip a beat giving it all the 1000/1 had...and even in not such a nice way. Definitely glad you are bringing these out Mark!!

Caps are only useful if you don't want to realize that your charging system can't keep up. Sell it for cash and spend it on something fun, it is a much better use of your money.

The real question is what band are you having an issue with. If you buy an eq that doesn't cover that range it won't help at all, and for a 5 band to do it will require some real adjustability.

If you do a boosted I6 I'd highly recommend starting with a real one. The 3.5 Bm'er engine would be saweet with some boost in your car. I didn't offer it before since well I didn't think you stood a chance in hell of doing it.

My 3 year old nephew likes your little F! guy Tom.

Indeed as Scott says a couple of months ago. Definitely an impressive driver.

You have PM.

At least the distributor is in the right place.

yeah baby:

or you could do something cool: http://hotrodhomepage.com/hrhp/2005/12/24/...powered-camaro/

shittytop

shit adds up