///M5

It only took Jeep 16 years to build a truck that outhandles an E34 M5, out accelerates it, and gets better gas mileage. Best part is it isn't worth that much more than my car, hard to say no to. I sell the truck and car, buy it and have money left over to improve the boat.

I am leaning towards Silver since we have salt 3-4mo out of the year.

This weekend: http://www.autorama.com/casi/minneapolis.htm

I am torn: or

Same here, you just have to find a real "honest" body man.

I like good ole fashion plain boxes. No show all go

Douche bag changed his mind when he had to sign the statement & admitted 100% fault. Vindication! Now to get the car fixed. Get some high ass estimates and pocket the change

Using the Ramos method?

That was me

It isn't like you didn't like the sound f my truck. Add a little morebass

too be honest, i was thinking about using either the rl-i8 or the pair of clarion 8s. i need to get rid of the memphis belle and get a different amp...teh ICON will either go in the hooptie or the next truck, room allowing. watching all the wall builds, i have half a mind to wall off the hooptie with the ICON, lol....just because. but i don't really want to use the belle in there, though i guess it would work. and i don't think i could've gotten a regular MINI. but this being 6spd, supercharged and convertible sold the deal, it's a blast to drive, lol. tom, i'll get pictures saturday...promise! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee Hmmmmmmmmm, of course I was looking at Audison 5.1's earlier today to power a 3 way using only two amps but the Belle might work as well. I need to make some measurements.

How Sean would drive one rofl

Filters aren't walls that let all things pass they have slope. The little 6dB cap won't really do anything other than rotate your phase and give you very marginal protection which you already have plenty of. I am a big proponent of only using the crossover on ONE device.

They will "add" but only if the slopes intersect exactly and remember they are log slopes so hitting the same isn't really so easy to do. In your setup big gaps in frequency response won't hurt anything, you won't even notice. They will protect your drivers though. I have never run an active setup where there wasn't a gap, of course for me it is do to imaging reasons for you really it is just to protect your drivers.

The naysayers on the MinicooperS haven't driven one. They will make you smile.

New old car still has factory deck... 1.5 din to work with, 6.75" door speaker opening factory in front doors. Target max budget, who cares, lol. Spent 6 grand last spring on my spl stint. 2grand seems like the max i'd be willing to spend on a beater tho. Any tweeter size limitations? I shouldn't have asked max, I really meant by what do you mean cheap max. You say $1k but it includes the amp and sub, I was referring to the "cheap" front stage portion. Also knowing the processing would help, I assume it is your 8455... Planning on fiberglassing door pods since i have tons of glass and stuff laying around. large format tweets should fit possibly even a 7" midrange. its all just in the thinking process i really hate having no sound though. I was thinking like 400 for the front soundstage, don't have any processing capabilities right now. I'll go look at decks and compare my options unless someone has an h701 with supporting deck for around 400-500$. I was thinking for subs i would once again bug my buddy jacob and try out 2 sd 10"s either isobaric or a small ported box tuned to 32hz. Processing choice first, drivers second. Don't you have an 8455? 8455 was sold with car. I have pm'd the current owner of the car about buying it back though as its an sq deck and not a spl deck. Option #2 findind a cheap hatch and playing around with street A again. (compete against my old car, lol) Need to pick your processing first as it will influence the driver choice quite a bit. Driver location would help as well.

Definitely sarcasm, there is a HUGE difference but I guess your hand knows better than testing

I look really funny in the originals though

Even with 18dB you should start there...the maybe was with only 6dB even trying to lower it less.

700MHz what?

You aren't listening, start at 6k or don't go active. You need to use your ears and your brain.

Speakers to the enclosure no problem, speakers to the crossover is a huge problem. It isn't just slope and crossover point in a crossover. Impedance levelling, attenuation circuits just don't work with different drivers.

I run mine at 12...

None will recommend using 4x6's either. It is well worth the money to pay someone to put in 5.25's at least as none of the 4x6's sound like anything other than chit.