///M5

If you are a dope, your a dope though.

Here is how I see your problem. You want output which either means porting or 2 drivers, theoretically that would be similar; however, I do not see you as a ported guy. Going from the IB to ported is quite a jump and I think that you won't be happy with the response. I do realize that it is possible to make a nice sounding ported enclosure, but I will also add that a sealed variant (driver allowing) will always sound better albeit at a lower level. To add to the problem, the Q can take more than you have to give if you get a pair and considering output is one of your goals that doesn't maximize what it can do and while doubling the power to one or doubling the number of drivers gives you nearly the same bump (again theoretically and in the same type enclosure) I see the solution to your goal as 2 Q's with 2x the power you currently have available as your best solution. If you won't up the ante on your amp or double them up you are going to probably get more output out of the pair of SSD's though.

I probably should have said complete dope instead of doof.

Have to be a complete doof to get banned here to as it is a pretty accepting crowd.

i actually like running real fill and 6x9s do the trick for me....i mean chit some of us like having people in the car and feel that you cant have big subs on all of the damn time....i turn off my subs and just enjoy a real nice overal sound stage...but its all personal pref i guess. So where in your stage do the rears fit??? Exactly, nowhere. As for your big subs comment obviously you need a tuning lesson. If you can ever localize your subs they aren't tuned right or you are a basshead. Also, 6x9's are a joke. Yes I do realize there are some that are decent but if you arbitrarily select 100 different 6x9's there might be one pair that is actually worth a chit. It is the most underdesigned speaker shape there is. Components will generically smoke them in output and clarity across the board. PS. I also like having people in my car and truck and to this day no-one has ever complained about the lack of rear speakers in fact it is quite the opposite. I get comments from the back seat all the time amazed at how clean sounding and loud my system plays.

The active crossover alone is going to cost you some dough. The Behringer DCX2496 is a great option, but around $250. Then for the tweets, mids, and sub you will need amplifier channels. Buying something like 3 Adcom GFA-535's for around $300 total will give you 60wx6 for the setup. On top of that you will still need a pre-amplifier (an analogy would be the headunit in your truck, but with no built in amplifiers) in your case basically a volume knob and input selector. A reasonable pre might start at a $100 but the sky is the limit above that. If your goal is cost efficiency passive will be way cheaper; however, do realize that good passive crossover designs regularly cost more than the speakers that are connected to them. I don't mean in design either but in raw electronic components. If you do go passive I would highly recommend just following a design that someone has posted on the web and not trying to do your own first. You can always make measurements based on the design and improve it which is much easier to grasp than starting from scratch.

You have never seen me push "my" setup on anybody, for people running active I have sure put my 2 cents in on drivers but never have I only give what I have as an option. I always try to never offer a single solution either. The OP has never really stated what he wants clearly other than his goals which are WAY out of his budget. Offering a solution that won't meet his goals isn't right either and that is exactly what you offered. Do look back and realized that he asked for SQ first. My goal was to educate the fact that isn't really what he wants and his other goals conflict with it. If you don't look at all of the information you will never be able to help someone out in a way that really helps them. People may just offer options on other crap audio websites, but we really try to tailor a solution for the poster and not just some subjective response based on what is in our vehicles. I could careless about average Joe here we are trying to help yenwen. It is funny too since he never called a subwoofer/amp a system, that is just something you did.

That Kove piece makes absolutely no sense to me. Neither does your response to what you quoted me on. 10v won't help you. If you truly want a good processor get either the P9 combo or the Alpine H701/Rux combo.

Morning!!

Also having a midbass that is larger than your sub, is umm wrong. Considering the small size of boxes that today's 8 & 10" drivers can fit into it really would be prudent to step it up a notch.

The Q fits the description of your system better, but the SSD fits the power you have. Do you have to keep your sub amp?

two words baaddddd asssssss . just wish they were cheaper More info please! I'd really like some reviews of the L8s as they will play up more than high enough to mate with the Neo8s. the damn component set(three way with l3 instead of l4) is only ~$900, though the L6 comes in at 450 and the L8 being almost 600 really draws me away from ordering just single drivers. For a full component set the $900 isn't really that bad once you start pricing up a comparable set of drivers, especially since that damn L8 has such a shallow mounting depth. though i'll probably end up going a cheaper route once i actually start on the fiero's audio because i'll be so broke The "shallow" mount is what turned me off, I just don't see how it can do what I want it to. Not saying it won't, but I won't find out at that price.

nice is Physics II electromagnetism for you too? Much better because as a 400 level class that one seriously sucks!!

Lots. Narrowing it down a bit for me would help.

Actually everyone would be better off when the re-read this thread to ignore anything that the Dopey guy said.

You are also younger than me at your age I was too lazy to cook. Pretty much would rather be eff'd up and get takeout. The big key to learning is trying and it doesn't hurt to put a little energy into it the same way you would reseach car audio. Doesn't take much time either. Way more info available as well, but harder to sort through the crap. Yes I am a retard that finds reading recipes amusing and critique them like I do someone's front stage.

Hey key word you used homemade

only if he's looking for sq, even then if you don't have the components to back it up, it's basically useless. actually when i had me cd8445 i had problems with not being able to turn the gain down far enough. If you already have no noise 2v or 10v will make absolutely no difference other than the gain position on your amp.

Closest hunter machine to me. Lifetime balancing is nice and they beat the Rack's price here by a bunch Pvckers know me by name though....I drive too much!!

I've got a rack of lamb soaking in buttermilk that will be grilled over an open fire. Pulled out some garlic mashers from the freezer to eat with it. Just finished eating it. Paired it with a bottle of Ancient Vine Mouvedre and am smiling BIG TIME.

My two favorite are bikinipunk and 89grand. Jesus are they idiots.

You haven't had any problems with your gear yet obviously, wait until you do and you too shall feel the wrath of jack-ass customer service. To the OP, I would highly expect that the AA to be a much better sub than the eD anyways.

Go for a pair of Q's then.

I will probably build the Modula MT's at some point just for the hell of it since I have a set of the Daytons I bought when they were on major sale. Of course the crossover on those costs more than the drivers, but that is sort of expected with Jon's Cauer designs.

If you do go after Mark's 2 way 8" design you will need to make sure that the RS28 you get will actually meet its spec otherwise they will be stressed. The build consistency, in particular the Fs isn't very consistent. The pair I have measure okay though.