///M5

How about 6 for $30? btw, I just realized that I had forgotten to exclude the TechTeam from the warning system. Fixed. warning syste,?

Should be a smiley here, but instead of google it should say search

details?

Most people suck at interviewing so they ask questions that they read somewhere on the net are good ones to ask. To me I like to spend about 10 minutes with someone and if I approve, go do something social with them and get to know them. Judging character is much easier that way and of translates those little pieces of paper called resumes pretty well.

Isn't that feeling something that happens everyday?

You could also do a 3 way without kicks. Use the door location for an 8, the dash for a 3" and put a tweeter in your sail panel.

For deadener, look at Raamat or Second Skin. 2nd skin is a bit thicker and more effective but also costs more so you can't double up where needed on the same budget. An acoustic barrier like Ensolite is also helpful. If you are thinking of running active, I'd highly recommend looking at the Peerless, Vifa, Scan-Speak, Seas, Dayton, Usher drivers available at partsexpress.com or madisound.com all of them will actually come under your budget significantly and allow you to add a crossover as well. The big question now on your front stage is how much space do you have to mount the drivers and will they be on or off axis.

Nigeria 419 scammer play with him. i've always wanted to look here for ideas : http://www.ebolamonkeyman.com/ ROFL.

That would be ideal, and of course no 8" is going to do that. I didn't mean to imply any recommendation for using it in a 2way with an 8 in particular.

It is more just to do it other than a failure on what I have now.... I think enhancing what I have now will be better than trying to throw $$ at something... ----------------------------- Just trying to think of the best place to put this tweeter. Fortunately, S-10 trim panels are rather cheap. I plan to buy a couple sets of A pillars and kick panels to try out a few things. Nothing good ever comes easy, I always try to substitute money for installation skills. Except fundamentally good 2 way drivers don't usually make good 3 way drivers. When a driver is optimized for an application using it outside that application typically has ramifications that aren't worthwhile. Obviously you are looking at this thinking that if you remove some of the frequencies that your drivers have to play you will reduce the stress on them, but in reality this isn't too much the case. Sure it will help a little bit, but finding a midbass driver that is only a midbass driver and you will have way better output in both volume and frequency response than if you use a midbass/midrange driver just for midbass. To me, I'd either keep what you have or sell it all and start fresh. Adding another driver really doesn't make a whole lot of sense. You also need real processing to do this and should get that first.

The XT19 is superior to the 25 in a car to me. Just the non-on axis response alone makes it so. I haven't actually installed either in a car, but have listened to both in my car. The XT19 is a great little driver, and if your mid plays high enough sounds better than the XT25 anyways. The larger driver really only lowers the capability of the crossover point, but at the expense of the upper registers. I'd take the HDS over either of them in a heartbeat though.

about 0.4 cubes each I believe That is what you told me when you were doing it. They used to be in .3 though IIRC.

To me, your budget for your tweeter should be upped a little bit. While those Daytons look nice on paper, I am a bit skeptical that they will do what you need. How off axis are you going to mount them? The CA21 isn't nearly as nice as the rest of the Seas drivers. I have read of a few people that weren't all that happy with them, on the other hand for the money I bet they are still pretty great. Titanium domes, in particular from MB scare the heck out of me. I don't like my ears to bleed. I am not at all opposed to bypassing the tweeter altogether and running a two way with a 8" midbass and a smaller midrange though. You will lose the sparkle and pretty much need your mid closer to on axis, but I will say the most accurate sounding car stereo I have heard was not running tweeters. That 1 & 2" combo just doesn't do anything for me. In a 3 way I want a lot more than a 2" mid.

holy fart box

Just FYI, SQ & SPL when comparing these two drivers is enclosure dependent and hardly the driver. And of course they are directly proportional to opposite quantities in their boxes, meaning that you will be compromising between the two. While you can have a 60/40 compromise, it is a compromise.

I completely agree with Jim, you left out the most important part of the system and that is the front stage. Subs without one is pretty ghetto. The steep rolloff will hurt the lows, but my guess is that your definition of the low-lows isn't that low. Perhaps an example would clear that up. To me it sounds like you want some loud wanging subs, which have nothing to do with low-lows at all.

Hey!

Cub, You have a nice start but have been mislead perhaps in the past. The Sundown is a great amp, will do more than its rated power and make you happy with its clean output. The comparison of class AB & D amps on subwoofers is not worth getting into. You cannot hear a difference. I am not saying their isn't a sonic signature of an amp, but in the case of a subwoofer in particular there is absolutely on reason to not be using class D power. Capacitors do not do anything good for your stereo. In fact, they hide the issues that you might have with your electrical system. The only benefit to a capacitor is to keep your headlights from dimming. Of course, if this is your desire you should put it inline with your headlights and not with your amps power wire. There are exceptions, but they aren't worth talking about. In general they are a bad idea. Rear fill is a waste of money. There is no surround sound in cars (and IMO music shouldn't have any either) so why would you want anything coming from behind you? It is always a better option to spend the money you'd normally put in the rears and instead spend it on the fronts. Sort of the same thing as your home stereo. For music only if you put all your budget into a 2chn amp and 2 front speakers, I guarantee it will not only sound better but if you want be louder as well than if you bought 4chn of amplification and 4 speakers. Not sure why you would use an Epicenter. Any sort of "magic" processor that alters the way that your recorded music is presented is not a plus to me. At the moment of course they are marketing them to people who listen to compressed music off an ipod to fill in the lower portions of the music the ipod takes out to protect headphones. A simpler solution would be to not listen to compressed music which on a good system sounds like crap anyways. Lossless ftmfw. The question about the crossovers was more to question the capability of the EQX for running an active based system bypassing all passive crossover components. While it seems possible with it, it would require hand selecting resistors (or so it seems from the 2sec I perused the manual just now) and could be done. This would allow you to run DIY style drivers and really up the ante. IMO the Bostons you have are a significant improvement over the CDT's, but I am a midbass nut so that is a no brainer. Of course a DIY set would be a huge step above them as well. If your budget is truly $1500 for a sub amp and front stage speakers there are a ton of options that you can run, including another active crossover if the EQX won't do what you want it to. Let us know your reactions and we will help narrow down the gear!

It is a phone number, call it as it might be fun.

Good morning R&R.

Stop hitting it like a puss.

You made me go over and look pucker.

Most consumer level units are "modified power" in marketspeak, which means square waves...I wouldn't trust them for anything beyond a coffeemaker or cell phone charger. No way would I put my coffee machine on one.

Doubt you will find one that can keep up with the current draw, just use the Behringer on one and some car audio amps

There is a power supply mod for the 2496 that you can find a schematic for on diyma. The inverters are noisy, so it is a much better solution.