///M5

could you help me think of some way to do this? It isn't that hard, but requires a bit more assembly skill. Here is a 90" port in a .65cuft box. Total box is >3 cuft and it is more than 2/3 port:

Actually it isn't clipping the amp that kills it but exceeding the thermal limits of the subwoofer, caused when the sub sees too much average power.

Tom, anything you can throw at me suspension wise I'd be glad to read. It isn't the easiest thing in the world to search for... No real hurry, I won't have any fundage until we move but something like this is going to take some planning and I wouldn't be surprised if it takes me 6-12 months to find the shell I will turn into a car. The W did approve my project yesterday though

pushrods ain't thaaaat bad Look at how many people love the Ls series of motors and how long the chevy small-block has been playing with push rods. The new corvettes drive like trucks, enough to make me puke. My 17 year old car feels better around the corners and is nearly as quick. Yeah, they smoke me on torque especially in the low end but that only makes it so tards can drive them fast which isn't exactly what this world needs.

Do you actually like where you work enough to worry about that? It isn't like its a career.

Your head bleeds like a mofo to. One thing you learn quickly when you are undersized like myself.

Scott, thanks for filling in your thoughts on subs. The original intent of this thread was to stop the disillusioned ones from thinking they need low impedance mids & tweets in their car, when usually in a driver that size it is a completely useless thing to purchase.

It couldn't have taken me two minutes to type that....but DD's response wasn't there when I started.

Dual 2 ohm sub can be wired either to 4 ohm (series) or 1 ohm (parallel). You could also of course only excite one of the two coils with half the power of the subs ratings and have a completely different sounding woofer as well-yields a 2 ohm load.

i.e. no stage

7 chn of stereo is sort of like the front stage in your exploder

Going to depend a lot on your port and tuning frequency. At 4.5 cubes net, a real generic 26sqin of port tuned to 16hz is going to be around 60" long. You are going to have to slot and bend to get her to fit three times over with a 21x21xZ sized box.

So i can't do a pair of tens either? The only reason i was going to do a pair of 10s or 12s was because of having more cone area. I guess im going to have to get a single 12 then Hey you were the one that asked for 12's...

Tuning that way for movies sure, but also for LFE. If you port high in a house (like 30) you are going to lose the lows below that but gain a peak in probably what you might consider the "happy range" but I wouldn't go for that trade off. I bet Mark thought they were for your car. I'd either port those really low or run them sealed inside. You don't have that nice cabin gain on the lower end to beef things up like in a car so your driver needs to extend deeper.

*chats

I just had a turkey sandwich with melted shredded cheese, shredded carrots, and some hot sauce. Man it was good. I found a leftover chicken breast, an avocado, some english muffins, some thai chips and a saucer peach. No longer hungry am I.

time to make a coffee and look in the fridge for lunch

LOL I'd sell my DX-28 for a lot less than that. Funny stuff.

Time for a v8 again, I might even do pushrods.

I am sick of dealing with European stuff and most of what I'd want from there just doesn't fit my body very well.

If its moody and you can only ride it when it wants, you know its a ladies.

We own a 31 & 26 Ford. The 31 is a convert complete with trundle seat and the 26 only has 2k miles. I want a hardtop and not a convert so it won't work. Plus I want a slightly more modern rod. While the GS could be interesting, it is too big and clunky. If I go big and clunky I will replace the Galaxy with another even though currently that is not an option.

If you haven't realized it yet, you can't have what you are asking for. If you try it will sound like arse.

I did forget to state what I thought everyone would assume. It has to handle better and be faster than the M when I am done. I won't take a step back. a little cliche but a 69 Camaro the truck-arm rear suspension will set it apart some, and is supposed to handle quite well, you could also go the IRS route (atleast a couple kits made for this) I don't like the squared off wheel wells. 67-68 would be okay but they almost have an Eleanor like problem in that every asshole has built one. IRS is a definite possibility, but if not at least a watts in the rear and sla conversion in the front. Options: 65-69 Mustang -- ruined by Eleanor, but still not completely out of the question 67-68 Cougar -- perhaps the current front runner only I still can't quite get over the nose 70-72 Barracuda -- I am worried about getting one to handle 70-71 Challenger -- although even a junked one is absurdly expensive and the suspension kits are pretty lame for Mopars Firebird -- out considering my buddy is building one 67-68 Camaro -- too many of these have been built Falcon & Maverick -- I just can't go that far 63-64, 66 Fairlane/Cyclone -- I go back and forth on these, but part of me really likes the option Ranchero -- while I like them, I want a backseat Torino is too close to the Galaxy and another Galaxy is out of the question as well As you can tell I have a bit of an oval preference, but am not only looking at them. I am sure there are other options and an open for suggestions, please! Now, I need to shop for driveline stuff. At the moment the only part there I really have picked out is a T56 of some variety.

the woman wants a little attention...