///M5

first football game ever at US Bank Stadium and I've got club seats

Murray was definitely as 1 week bike

Yeah...because Murray made GREAT bikes

I don't do anything with stealerships

I would just like to find anyone local that has built a non stock one successfully

The Russian I haven't used since moving back from Moscow in 1991 is all of a sudde b3coming useful to read the news feeds on here.

Circle D is $7k for a performance build + shipping.

Every place they recommend says 4l80 swap and that 7k I am not spending

Without ANY? Not much... Not the right question. The question is how much are you willing to deal with and at what listening levels does it become acceptable. Exactly why I hinted above sometimes knowing sucks since everything is a compromise and now you get to pick it. Some people will tell you 10m/s others deal with 100m/s. In a car 10 is absurd, but 100 is always absurd. Go model both extremes at full power and you will see the variance it creates. You will also find out that it becomes prohibitive in a car to get anything super low (either tuning or port velocity)....but being in a car it is easy to chase a law of diminishing returns as well. ie, remember the easiest way to make your car sound better is to lower the noise floor of your car, not improve your stereo further.

Still can't see your pics. Host them on imageshack, photobucket or the like

Every version I have ever seen does and the Pro is also free...

The biggest problem with doing what I described above is that now you will know you get to choose your port velocity. No matter your choice you get to live with it since you built it. If you don't like it later, you'll blame knowing...but of course you will know exactly how to fix it. I'd rather know and re-do than guess and re-do

I can't see the graph. Did you model it with the amplifier power added and then check port velocity? That will tell you more about port size than anything. How are you sure you don't want some peak? A little gain (peak) is desired by many. Can lengthen the port if you want it to change or of course change the box size.

You will hear absolutely zero difference going from 3000w to 4000w. Even if the amp were a free trade I wouldn't bother. As for the box size, again for music you should avoid that. You are sitting in a good position. If there were certain frequencies, notes, anomalies or the like you wanted to change then perhaps a different box design could be the fix but there are also probably better ways to do that.

Plus I want bigger clutch packs

I know the can't isn't set in stone but it is more money and hassle

You can't replace. Tcu is part of the valve body. Local rebuild...

If I didn't have kids and/or a job that made me travel I would as well. Also doesn't help that it is currently my only car.

I like that idea so much it is all that I have done. Even drove down to TPI Specialties to ask them. No cigar. My effin' neighbor works at Dynotech and he doesn't know either. Stupid 6l80's must not fail all that much.

ROFL, I had no idea what that was.

It was more a general question than specific. I realize you wouldn't know shops up here. Nationwide ones I already know, but I just want someone local I can trust.

I like the $1 solutions. May not be fast, but will show you a long term oh shit. Plus you can embed it somewhere how you want. I did the same with an AFR gauge in my Escalade. I cut up the factory clock and shoehorned it in the casing. Bad shot from a long time ago, but you get the idea. 14.69 at idle...glad I am not in boost at idle with that AFR

How would you guys shop for a transmission shop if you knew no one. I've been such a DIY'er that I really have no recommendations locally. It is for a 6L80e and I want a mostly stock rebuild with bigger clutch packs. Nothing fancy as the flying pig doesn't need to fly any higher.

Definitely one of those things that is usually much more obvious once taken apart.