///M5

You only end up using a few anyways and the ones I usually need aren't exactly at a normal interval. Custom ftw.

Just make the ones you need when you need them.

No, apparently your too good at buying fishing gear

Time to sort the fishing tackle, everytime I do this I realize I have too much.

bit by the smiley name brain fart

:orly:

and its not very fun either

boo, the opposite of fun isn't fun.

I'd prefer the lower tuning at home as well. It should sound great. What are you going to power it with?

Welcome, I too am an ole PG fan.

Afternoon has everyone had their St. Patty's day bender wear off?

Welcome.

Lucky that you found one for $20 too.

That is really bad for coffee. The shelf life of ground coffee is actually hours and putting it in the freezer causes it to absorb flavors from other things as well as to create a moisture problem if you take it out and put it back in. I know it is what used to be recommended, but it surely isn't anymore now that the coffee public is getting more educated. Of course the shelf life on roasted beans is in the under two week realm too. Part of the reason that Starbucks sucks, there chit is so old it tastes like bitter arse. Doesn't help they use super automatic machines either as they don't properly brew at the correct temperature (should be within a couple degrees of 201) or the right pressure (usually from 8.5-9.5 bar) to extract full flavor from the beans. Do realize that I use the European definition of coffee which here you call espresso. On the same note, it is very easy to turn an espresso into an American coffee you just add some boiling water. Really the best "weak" brew coffee you can have, but you need to start with a great espresso then. I do this all the time for people and they rave. My beans are rarely a week old however and brew with beautiful crema and an amazing mouth feel. To find a good coffee shop: 1) They buy beans that are roasted, they sit for three days and then are completely used up within a day. (the good ones here roast in store) 2) They grind special for every single cup. No letting the grounds sit in the grinder. 3) They use a machine with a real group head. Usually a Faema 61 is a great start, almost all brands license this sort of head from Faema. 4) They brew with a timer. Every brew on any particular machine should always take the same amount of time. The packing of the beans is import as well as the grind. This requires a good grinder as well. In home versions reasonably good grinders start at about $300+ and are more important than the machine itself for making great coffee. 5) They have a consistent way of packing the portafilter. Mine I pack the coffee at 30lbs. A lot of learning time with the tamper and a scale taught me and now of course I just press. Being off by a couple pounds will really affect the overall extraction as the machines run at pressure and this will greatly speed/slow the steam flowing through the beans. 6) Lastly, my pet peeve. When they stretch the milk it should only be whole milk and should be cold and fresh everytime steam hits the pitcher. They should use the right size pitcher so that for every cup it is used up. Milk also should not be heated to over 170-180 degrees, the stretching should be done by 140 degrees and the rest of the time the steam wand sits in the pitcher it should be integrating the foam with the milk. In other words the foam should pour consistently with the milk out the pitcher and not have a foam stage and a hot milk stage. This will really make the milk the sweetest and have the best finish. All of you that sugar your coffees will find the amount you use greatly reduced if you have a good barista. Good luck. I have jumped behind the bar multiple times to do the work on my own coffees. To get them to allow me I have to tell them I used to be a professional Barista and really I am just a home-brew hack.

True, but it just gets faster if you get hotter. Not sure why the reference speed is near 10deg though. Nice point on the port velocity as that would obviously be way easier to do, that wouldn't have anything to do with cone velocity like the OP was asking then though.

Morning. Have you notched out some of the response with either eq or passive components for that baffle? More highs should help, but I think taming what you have might be part of the issue as well.

Welcome onboard, have you other mods on your car as well?

The second box I ever built I used a framing square to adjust my radial arm saw. I then cut all the boards. When I tried to assemble them I found that the square was off by 5 degrees and since the box had a slant back the pieces did come together so nice.

pwned myself and nearly took out the rear seat in my truck for no reason. I plopped in the box, turned on the tunes and nothing from my sub. Aaargh. I had the remote wire undone originally but had remembered to attach it before putting the sub box in. Removed the speaker wires and checked the coils and wiring and everything was okay. I was about to pull the seat and then I thought hell, I better double check the settings on the h/u. Sure enough high slope crossover at 25hz means nothing really comes through your sub, especially since I was listening to Stevie Wonder.

Off to munch some carpet with an exacto knife and cover my damn box.

pics of the akita too

Reminds me of a billboard they have in MI. Pictures of a couple cars on it: First sentence: Stinky credit stopping you from getting a car? go to www.poopycredit.com

Pulpy

I am sure those Fostex's aren't made with soft raw banana fruit.