///M5

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I surely didn't type this, but here is a list of car acronyms which fit the jargon category: 5MT - Five peed manual transmission 6MT - Six speed manual transmission ABS - Antilock Braking System A/C - Air Conditioning AFRs - Air Fuel Ratios ALS - Anti-lag System ASR - Anti-Slip Regulation (traction control) AT - Automatic Transmission AVCS - Active Valve Control System (Subaru) AWD - All Wheel Drive BBK - Big Brake Kit BHP - Brake Horespower BOV - Blow-Off Valve BPV - Bypass Valve CAI - Cold Air Intake CEL - Check Engine Light CVTC - Continous Variable Timing Control (Nissan & Infiniti) DCCD - Driver Controlled Center Differential Diff - Differential DIN - Deutsche Industrial Norm, radio dimension standard DOHC - Daul OverHead Cams DPFI - Dual Port Fuel Injection DSM - Diamond Star Motors DP - Downpipe EBC - Electronic Boost Controller EBD - Electronic Brake-force Distribution ECU - Engine Control Unit EFI - Electronic Fuel Injection EGT - Exhaust Gas Temperature EM - Engine Management ETC - Electronic Throttle Control F/I - Forced Induction FI - Fuel Injection FMIC - Front Mount Intercooler FPR - Fuel Pressure Regulator FWD - Front Wheel Drive H4 - Horizontally opposed 4 cylinder engine HID - High Intensity Discharge HLSD - Helical Limited-Slip Differential HP - Horsepower HVAC - Heating Ventilation Air Condition I4 - Inline 4 cyclinder IAM - Ignition Advance Multiplier (part of the ECU's engine control scheme) ID - Inner diameter JDM - Japanese Domestic Market KPH - Kilometers per Hour LHD - Left Hand Drive LSD - Limited slip differential MAF - Mass Air-Flow Sensor MAP - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor MBC - Manual Boost Controller MIVEC - Mitsubishi Innovative Valve Timing and Lift Control MPFI - Multi-Port Fuel Injection MPH - Miles per Hour MT - Manual Transmission NA - Normally Aspirated O2 - Oxygen OBD-II - On Board Diagnostics II OEM - Original Equipment Manufacturer OHV - OverHead Valves PCV - Positive Crankcase Ventilation PSI - Pounds per Square Inch RHD - Right Hand Drive RRFPR - Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator RPM - Revolution per Minute RWD - Rear Wheel Drive SAFC - Super Air Fuel Controller S/C - Supercharger SES - Service Engine Soon SFI - Sequential Fuel Injection SMIC - Side Mount Intercooler SOHC - Single OverHead Cam STS - Short-throw Shifter TB - Throttle Body TQ - Torque TBE - Turbo Back Exhaust TCU - Traction Control Unit (the computer that controls the DCCD's action) TMIC - Top Mount Intercooler TPS - Throttle position sensor TDC - Top Dead Center TSB - Technical Service Bulletin TT - Turbo timer or Twin turbo UP - Uppipe USDM - US Domestic Market VIN - Vehicle Identification Number VLSD - Viscocious Limited-slip Differential VTEC - Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control (Honda & Acura) i-VTEC - Variable Valve Timing and Lift Electronic Control with Intelligence (Honda & Acura) VVT-i - Variable Valve Timing with Intelligence (Toyota & Lexus) VVTL-i - Variable Valve Timing and Lift with Intelligence (Toyota & Lexus) WAI - Warm Air Intake (short-ram) WHP - Wheel Horsepower WOT - Wide Open Throttle

I've read these might be noisy, but I like the price point: http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/f...id=000185&ar=40

I actually don't agree with that statement. Sure at the stealer the bimmer will be more to fix, but parts for the straight six cars are extremely reasonable...and if you need recommendations and where to order parts I can surely help. For a cheap beater you could move back a few years and get a e36 328 for under $8k drive it for a year and still probably sell it for near 8k.

Everyone needs two 3/4 tons....

Too crappy for you, but you could sell it to me cheap. I ship UPS AIR only with a concrete cinderblock Free H/U though That's okay, I will pick it up cinderblock and all.

You're going to laugh at me, but if you're interested in a cheap tire that actually performs very well, check out the Kuhmo Ecsta MX. I have the Supra 712s on my car now, which I hate, but they lasted a good 20,000 miles with me burning them damn near every chance I get. I drive the car hard as well. Anyways, my old man got a deal on the Ecsta MXs which are their top of the line model, and for the $125 he paid for each tire, I'd put them up there with some of the Pirelli, and Yokos I've run. I have been looking at those actually, but I hear they are godawful in the wet. Being I drive the car long distances regularly that scares me a bit.

*leans towards the BF Goodrich g-Force T/A KDW*

Too crappy for you, but you could sell it to me cheap.

Yes that's the real beyotch. You can buy in for a $100 or $300 is easy as well to. The friggin' M5boarders all recommend the Mich SP2 which are $250 ea, for tires that last 10k miles or so that is gonna kill me.

Oh God So many choices.....

*goes to shop for 245/40/18 rubber*

Lazy is good, BK is not.

Chit, here is another reason for the dub, super easy front stage install: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3120

It will probably sound better too.

Glad that you could do nothing and enjoy your day!

Yep, if a stock car stereo sounds better than your home theatre and you have a greater than 32" tv I really, really don't understand.

Oh, the really clean one in the front of the picture is the one that I built. You can tell it was built for a tall guy by the length of the butt. 844IMX 7' kicked to 7'4" sic carbide titanium guides, grade 1 cork, rubber locking fuji reelseat, Chronarch BSV reel--I can't wait for opener.

My spinning gear is mostly in a drawer as I don't use it much anymore. I can cast further and much more accurately with a baitcaster, the spinning gear I exclusively use for live bait which is about once a year...

Edit: oops wrong topic

True, drives me nuts...these people also tend to CRANK up their crappy ass speakers into the extremely audibly distorted range as well, that and use bass boost as their only friend. Completely ruins the big tv experience for me.

if i did a swap it would either be for a 3.8sc or a 3.4(pontiac DOHC) turbo I'm not sure which i'd prefer, i love turbos though His 3.8 had turbo power.

Just wondering what you thought of them - IMO, I could get used to them, but I don't think they'd be my first choice. They don't quite look like they fit on the Imp--too squarish and to me it looks like the offset is way off. I see a lot of SS's running around on rims with weird offsets like that though. I figure it is just some guy who went into any rim shop and bought some with the right bolt pattern. Makes it look like the car was designed 20 years ago with the tires all tucked in by the axles. IMO, Tom's cars would benefit from some meats that fill the well and some space in the rim.