///M5

You work Wednesday nights?

Weird. I've never seen it do anything like that. It lets you select the pictures...but you do have to check the boxes. I love how it grays out what is already imported. Huge time saver when you aren't diligent with the transfer and edit.

The 135 is probably not really a good solution for me since I shoot a crop. Would work with an extender but that is an extra $400 and nothing lower than 135mm and with extension at 2.8. Makes me wish I had a FF...but then my other crop lenses would be a waste.

70-200 non-IS used $820 - new $1250 (65%) 135 f2 used $735 - new $1000 (73%) 70-200 IS II $1650 - new $1950 (84%) I don't know if I "need" IS. Indoors I can use my 50mm when light is a problem so the shutter speed is down. I do know though if I choose that route the first time I go out I will want the shutter speed help. 3-4 stops of light is HUGE.

And of course, Nikon still makes a great camera and lens system. Not saying anything different.

It is real interesting to see their marketing machine work. Obviously they market what new users want to buy which will strengthen the brand.

Seth I didn't ask to argue, I was curious and hopeful as I am REALLY close to spending $2k on a lens and wanted to make sure it made sense. That being said I have to comment on a few points. -Nikon glass is 10 years behind and they aren't updating it anytime soon, that being said their kit lenses may be even better than the Canon's but they are both useless junk so that is irrelevant. -I've been to at least 25 professional photographers for portraits or interviewing for portraits the last 5 years. 100% of them shoot Canon. Not a single shoot a Nikon. -Besides portraits, sports are the second hardest thing to shoot (akin to birds in flight etc). Look at the sidelines and see the Canon bias. -And last and very important. NEVER compare consumer models. Every new one always leap frogs either, but you want to compare prosumer models at least. The adjustments on consumer models are maddening in comparison. Here you will also find that the important specs Nikon lacks on. Sure they win on ISO performance, but meh, that helps in .001% of your pictures so focusing on features that matter is a better idea. Either way thanks. You helped me feel great about grabbing a 70-200....almost. Perhaps I should buy Matt some beer on a soccer day to complete convince myself a prime isn't necessary.

Go ride q surly and or a scott big ed

Perhaps we ahould go shop together

Lightning tubes baby

I see nothing in there that shows it has crossovers for active. Need specs on thr crossovers

Your ignorance reeks of troll. Either it is intentional or you really need to actually try something for once before you comment. The bigger the baffle the better, the more mass the better, the more solid you can make your door the better. Give me a $100 budget for speakers and a $100 processor and a good install and it will DESTROY a $5,000 component set bolted in the stock mount. Seriously, like not even in the same ballpark. More than half your front stage budget should be in the install. Deadener, CCF, MLV, Baffle, Clay or other mass, and of course doing whatever you need to help the aiming so that it is appropriate for what drivers you bought.

Still curious what brought you so strongly to Nikon. At a segue in lens buying myself and know you shop like I do, so I want to know to help either rationalize what I am about to spend or to stop it.

No Bulb mode? For long exposures don't use a flash, but a flash light. Paint what you want quickly and see. Takes a bunch of tries, but for what you want to do there it will be way better than even a $500 hot shoe option. Btw, the stock on board flash is basically pointless. There is a reason most real cameras don't even include one.

Cooling in a mid can be more important than a sub. Can is only because everyone has a tendency to drive them closer to their thermal limit. Subs have tons of heat soak capability, not all mids do.

Unplugging your rears and hearing the stage get worse just means you have work to do on the fronts. Plain and simple. Fix that and retest and you will feel different. As for where to start on the active front. Whatever you do as a first timer make sure that you can change your settings easily and on the fly. For this I generally would not recommend a processor but a headunit that has the controls built in. It will allow you to fidget as necessary in real time. I haven't run a headunit in nearly 6 years so not sure what is new. In order to help the shopping experience, start digging for headunits that you like and post their crossover specs up here. As a general rule of thumb only look at ones that allow you to Band Pass the mid. (ie needs a HP & LP at the same time). I also for a new active install think that a graphic eq is easier than a parametric, but like everything in the car audio world there are compromises that can be made.

Not saying you should run active, but your premises aren't right. First off, I said something about a single speaker. Exactly how I shop. Best driver for the job at hand always beats a compromise. The other problem is that you have faith in JL. Sure they build good stuff, but their crossovers are monstrous compromises of budget and average location. Any speaker builder will tell you that they want to measure the speakers IN SITU before designing a crossover. JL can't do that in your car and therfore their passives are a guess for someone elses car. I don't want that. You would also laugh if you measure their crossovers as they hardly do anything. Then if you disassemble them and look at the components you will cry when you realize what cheap crap they used. Active takes time and will start out worse, but slow your faith down in JL. Btw, don't buy an alternator. For your install you don't need one, will cause more harm than good. We'd rather see you use your budget on things that will help your car sound better! Lastly, don't be sorry. It isn't a carte blanche recommendation to go active, far from it. At the same time though optimizing the install of whatever you use is paramount

It isn't about being easy in your case, but close minded. You are asking questions expecting us to agree and when we don't you ignore the advice. The rears are a waste, cut them out!

The understanding you need to run active you should also have if you install your own system. There are very few adjustments you need to make in a 2 way, but it isn't trivial. Taking the time to learn and plan and understand is huge, but the end result will destroy a comp set for even less budget. Component sets are almost always a rip off. There are lots on here to help...

Gasket is pointless. Build a baffle, fix your install. You say you like having a rear stage as well, what I read is you don't like your front stage. Stop talking about the rears and liking them and instead fix the front so you don't. It is really easy and will be a monster revelation to you once done. The rears add nothing and make the front stage worse. No ifs ands or buts.

Umm, no. Buying a single driver that works good in a location is not a "component set". A component set can indeed include raw drivers. Good example is the Alpine F1 status set. It consists of a Scan Speak Revelator mid and a Scan Speak D2904 tweeter. Retail on the mid is $200, retail on the tweeter about the same. Alpine then slapped together some shitty ass crossover to mate with them and sold them for $5,000 as a component set. A set includes the drivers and the crossover. I will never buy another compromised crap ass car audio crossover ever in my life. Last time I did was in the 80's. I see no reason in it. Of course, it is easier to not.

That is irrelevant, we were discussing front stages.

As for can it fit, probably but you may be impeding on the door card. I would pull it and mock up and see. The bigger the baffle the better both in thickness and size. And no, you can't buy one anywhere as you really should optimize each one for each install.

A gasket is pointless ALL speakers SHOULD be mounted on a baffle. Bolting anything to the stock sheet metal is an exercise in futility for decent sound. It completely ruins good speakers. A set of $1000 components mounted that way can easily sound worse than a set of $30 drivers mounted the right way. Install, install, install.

Matt this might help. It is for XL and bigger frames, but normally frames scale. Finding an Ice Cream Truck in L may be a good start for a test ride. And yes there are more in that spreadsheet, and no it is not something you can download. I am an odd size and shop like an idiot so that is all my dumbass. Long ETT and low standover are your friends. Standover not that big of a deal. I would try to find a 170mm and 190mm Q factor to compare. The ICT will be 190 and I think the Pivot Le Fat you rode is a 170mm...but I will have to Google to check. The ICT may be too slack, but holy hell can it go through shit. I test rode one and rode through 18" deep mud. Got all nasty lol