///M5

Fit doesn't literally mean can be jammed into the space. For instance a driver with a terrible off axis response would suck to use at the bottom of your door. ie, it wouldn't fit. Obviously sizing for the space is important too, but that is far from the only factor.

First worry about your frequency response. Stage height is meh in comparison. Dial in the response and you'll stop caring where it is coming from.

Ha, nice story. You don't want to be with that one long....

Sitting in line to go into luxury box 55 to watch the wild lay the smack down on the kings.

It is a disgusting lie to list max. I wouldn't do business with them. No way no how. Tons of good brands.

I also wouldn't buy that amp. I am horribly opposed to general rules of thumb in audio as they are all wrong, but there is a rule that everyone should follow. Never, ever buy an amp that specifies Max power. RMS or nothing. Shady as hell.

Sub you could use a much smaller gauge. Depends on power and distance.

How did you set your gain? Bet you are clipping the crap out of your amp... If not, do you have some hideous aftermarket headlight bulbs?

Doing what is right is always justifiable, but don't get yourself in a pickle because of it.

Hmmm

Awesome....but have to say I was hoping an intercooler was going on

Again, it depends on what fits in YOUR car. There is no equipment holy grail, EVERYTHING is specific to your car. Please focus on taking it apart and then determining what will work.

What are you doing to her?

And BOOOOOOST!

That isn't quick, my high school hockey team nearly did that. Set the record in the semi-final game in the tourney with 3 goals in 12 seconds, which would correlate to 11 points in 44 seconds. Hockey is a WEE BIT harder to score than BB.

I wouldn't buy those rings. Read my recommendation again, but yes you found an example. As for how much deadening, just don't buy any other. Seriously.

Ryan - you aren't from Texas so you wouldn't understand....I am not either.

Example baffle from my Escalade. This is the test fit so no deadening, but you can see the baffle. ...and yes the Yellow cutting board was cheaper, lol. I could fit 1" so that determined the color. The thicker the better.

You have to make the baffles. Normally I use PTFE as it saves all the effort in sealing and making MDF water proof. There are probably some MDF ones on the internet/ebay, but they are somewhat pointless in that if you can fit a larger baffle in your space you should. The only way to do that is to make them, but it is as simple as cutting a round hole and and then jig sawing the shape on the outside. Deadening is simple. There is only one choice. Sound Deadener Showdown. If you really want to do it right you should deaden and use an MLV barrier, but you are going to rapidly chow your budget. If I were budget limited the FIRST thing I would do in a car is fix the stock install. It is always crap. Shocking how much better things sound just by doing that.

Oh, and those eq's are pointless. Most are in fact. Not saying you won't need some EQ, but first you need to know what is the anomaly you want to eq out is.

Umm, no. Speakers without baffles are stupid. You NEED to make a nice firm mounting structure for the speaker as the stock crap is junk. Easiest way is a nice thick baffle. If you aren't going to baffle and deaden, don't bother doing anything. I'd rather spend $30 on a set of speakers and install them right than $500 on a better set and bolt them in the stock mounts.

Baffle, deadening, etc are pre-requisites for fronts. Install is everything.... Stock locations and what/how fits you NEEd to figure out before shopping.

Just unplug the rears. They seriously screw up the sound and have no benefit. COMPLETELY pointless. What/where/how/etc does the box be/go? Same with the front speakers...

You picked things without goals. That is not how to shop. Installation location is SUPER critical for anything to sound good. If you are looking at rears it is also obvious this isn't thought through. They will be a net negative in particular if your goals are truly what you stated above. The other aspect you need to layout now is what restrictions you have for mounting locations/space etc. Obviously you won't need the whole trunk for what you described, but starting with an enclosure space you'd like to use would really help. 2 other problems with the links. Most people don't need them and it is annoying to click, saying the model number really helps and secondly you just sort of posted a hodge podge of randomness so we aren't following why you chose what you did and then trying to determine how it fits your install and goals is confusing to say the least.

I haven't but have tried a couple other on the list