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///M5

SSA Tech Team
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Everything posted by ///M5

  1. Please re-read. Those baffles are not made for YOUR car. Before you do anything you should pull your doors and start measuring. Until then stop shopping, you are not ready.
  2. Met up with a high school/college buddy tonight. Haven't seen him in 10 years. Invited me to his companies luxury box for the wild game. Was awesome. Dude got huge. Deadlifts 700lbs and does 2klb leg presses. 10+ reps too. I about shit myself. I may have the lifting terminology jacked as I only do 12oz curls but either way the amount of weight shocked the piss out of me.
  3. Fit doesn't literally mean can be jammed into the space. For instance a driver with a terrible off axis response would suck to use at the bottom of your door. ie, it wouldn't fit. Obviously sizing for the space is important too, but that is far from the only factor.
  4. First worry about your frequency response. Stage height is meh in comparison. Dial in the response and you'll stop caring where it is coming from.
  5. Ha, nice story. You don't want to be with that one long....
  6. Sitting in line to go into luxury box 55 to watch the wild lay the smack down on the kings.
  7. It is a disgusting lie to list max. I wouldn't do business with them. No way no how. Tons of good brands.
  8. I also wouldn't buy that amp. I am horribly opposed to general rules of thumb in audio as they are all wrong, but there is a rule that everyone should follow. Never, ever buy an amp that specifies Max power. RMS or nothing. Shady as hell.
  9. Sub you could use a much smaller gauge. Depends on power and distance.
  10. How did you set your gain? Bet you are clipping the crap out of your amp... If not, do you have some hideous aftermarket headlight bulbs?
  11. Doing what is right is always justifiable, but don't get yourself in a pickle because of it.
  12. Hmmm
  13. Awesome....but have to say I was hoping an intercooler was going on
  14. Again, it depends on what fits in YOUR car. There is no equipment holy grail, EVERYTHING is specific to your car. Please focus on taking it apart and then determining what will work.
  15. What are you doing to her?
  16. And BOOOOOOST!
  17. That isn't quick, my high school hockey team nearly did that. Set the record in the semi-final game in the tourney with 3 goals in 12 seconds, which would correlate to 11 points in 44 seconds. Hockey is a WEE BIT harder to score than BB.
  18. I wouldn't buy those rings. Read my recommendation again, but yes you found an example. As for how much deadening, just don't buy any other. Seriously.
  19. Ryan - you aren't from Texas so you wouldn't understand....I am not either.
  20. Example baffle from my Escalade. This is the test fit so no deadening, but you can see the baffle. ...and yes the Yellow cutting board was cheaper, lol. I could fit 1" so that determined the color. The thicker the better.
  21. You have to make the baffles. Normally I use PTFE as it saves all the effort in sealing and making MDF water proof. There are probably some MDF ones on the internet/ebay, but they are somewhat pointless in that if you can fit a larger baffle in your space you should. The only way to do that is to make them, but it is as simple as cutting a round hole and and then jig sawing the shape on the outside. Deadening is simple. There is only one choice. Sound Deadener Showdown. If you really want to do it right you should deaden and use an MLV barrier, but you are going to rapidly chow your budget. If I were budget limited the FIRST thing I would do in a car is fix the stock install. It is always crap. Shocking how much better things sound just by doing that.
  22. Oh, and those eq's are pointless. Most are in fact. Not saying you won't need some EQ, but first you need to know what is the anomaly you want to eq out is.
  23. Umm, no. Speakers without baffles are stupid. You NEED to make a nice firm mounting structure for the speaker as the stock crap is junk. Easiest way is a nice thick baffle. If you aren't going to baffle and deaden, don't bother doing anything. I'd rather spend $30 on a set of speakers and install them right than $500 on a better set and bolt them in the stock mounts.
  24. Baffle, deadening, etc are pre-requisites for fronts. Install is everything.... Stock locations and what/how fits you NEEd to figure out before shopping.
  25. Just unplug the rears. They seriously screw up the sound and have no benefit. COMPLETELY pointless. What/where/how/etc does the box be/go? Same with the front speakers...

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