///M5

New clips, perhaps? We ran stock clips on race GNs with 150 pound pumps. It has two screws holding the whole rail on. The screws push down on an L bracket. You can adjust the pressure on the rail by of course tightening the L bracket down first. Perhaps this is mechanic error as I tightened those down first and then put on the fuel rail assuming that would be tight. This time they are very evenly tightened down so if it pops off again (has 2x) I'll assume something is defective. Could easily be me. I will add that on the first two times you learn REALLY quick that these should have been snugged before plopping the charger on top. After making some tools (shortening a 5mm allen, bending a 10mm box end) I can get at it real fast now. Speed in this case I assume will also mean consistency as I wasn't constantly swearing at the dumb ass design.

Going to get my sleds on Friday. Don't need snow until then, lol. ....just realized today I haven't ordered my snow tires yet.

I had three of those. The one I "bought" I haven't seen yet, but it is in clean up at BMW finalizing the certification. Should be mint according to them. Obviously if not, I won't buy it. Saved atm for me though. 4cyl car

I did buy a BMW today though.

WTF? We ain't got shit. AND my boat is still in the driveway.

I get 10 in town/highway in town, but on long journeys when you just go 80 I can get closer to 20. I still have a problem with the gas pedal being used on the highway though so it is normally closer to 15 there, but gas is not an expense I pay attention to.There no way you could get 20mpg if you got that thing on the highway and just set the cruise at 80 for most of a tank. I averaged 22 after the supercharger on a 50 mile ride. Tail wind and flat though. Closer to 70

Felt good to drive the pig today again. Stupid fuel rail better stay down this time. Aargh.

I get 10 in town/highway in town, but on long journeys when you just go 80 I can get closer to 20. I still have a problem with the gas pedal being used on the highway though so it is normally closer to 15 there, but gas is not an expense I pay attention to.

Says the guy who has a good portion of the intake off his truck atm. Fucking fuel rail keeps popping off the rear injector.

Only 7 ? That thing was fuxored.

My case is probably the most extreme (I'll use FL gas prices) Escalade, 10mpg average (if I am lucky). I drive 15k mi/yr. $$ = 2.25 * 15,000/10 = $3375 Any random bullshit car at 30mpg $$ = 1.87 * 15,000/30 = $935 Savings to "buy" a new shitty econobox: = $3375-935 = $2440 or $200/mo to drive a complete piece of shit in comparison with my Escalade. *I cheated as well. I average 10mpg but I am not counting the highway miles where it is usually around 17-18mpg which is more than half my mileage. In reality that means it is maybe $100/mo I spend on keeping it on the road.

The turbo XC60 is a mess. Horrible lag/boost profile. From fueleconomy.gov Combined average MPG on 2012 XC60 is 20mpg Combined average MPG on 2012 Tundra 5.7 is 15mpg FL Gas prices from Gas Buddy: XC60 requires premium at $2.25/gal Tundra regular at $1.90/gal 60min a day at 30mph is 30 miles/day commute (both ways) Normal commute 200 days/year Commute cost savings: Volvo: 2.25 *6000mi / 20 mpg = $675 per year to commute Tundra: 1.87 * 6000mi / 15 mpg = $748 per year to commute Saving $73/yr on your commute will NOT buy you anything. Lol If you want it for all miles you drive, scale it. For instance, for 20k miles. ($748-$675) * 20,000/6,000 = $243/yr Figured if you hadn't managed the calculation yet, this might be eye opening. I've NEVER seen an instance where someone saves money due to gas mileage by buying a car. Choosing a different car when you do buy, of course, but the swap is rarely a difference maker.

If you have questions regarding the process ask, but that was way easier than typing something up. Stop by rat shack and grab a resistor and the rest isn't so hard. Do cycle the sub and break in the suspension first though otherwise the T/S will shift once that occurs

http://bfy.tw/2suW

Torn on tires. Two real options. Dillinger 5's for $140 each or Dillinger 5's pre-studded for $240 each. Can buy 100 studs for $100 and have half studded ones for $340. Fucking tires are RETARDEDLY expensive.

Bought that bike? Just the frame tonight. Components tomorrow. Working with a local shop for those, gave them the opportunity on anything they can do well on. Building up a bike from only components and remembering everything is interesting. Up to 47 line items so far, lol. That doesn't include spokes & nipples either as I need the hoops here first.

It's FAT too

Woot. First ever brand new ride I will finalize my order for here tonight

Of course there will be a difference, but no one on here nor even Corey or FI could tell you what that would be. If you really want it right measure the T/S. It isn't all that hard.

His holes are fucked

Nice work dude. Impressively quick!

Run the math to see how many miles you'd have to drive to save money switching vehicles. Its a lot if its any money out of your pocket to change vehicles. I'd be looking to either trade with no money out of pocket or to put some in. Right now the truck booked for 23,500 a few weeks ago. Down here 4x4 Tundra's are not all that common. The vehicle I had for a rental and loved was the Volvo XC60. Great gas milage, still some nice get up and go. Both on regular unleaded. The Tundra on the other hand loses about 1-3 mps going from super to regular, so gas costs me about 2.50 a gallon now. J Easy enough to just spell out your expenses and what the alternative will yield. Rarely does it help, but it can if you drive a pig and switch completely in the other direction.

I did have a short foray on the pc. Ended with unreal tournament 2004

<- horribly out of touch with pop culture

What is it?