///M5

Balance ok?

Of course if a 200mm prime could be used then a used 7D and this might work: http://www.amazon.com/Canon-200mm-2-8L-Telephoto-Cameras/dp/B000053HBB

If that is an option, then Heck yes. I assumed she wanted her own body. If so it's nearly impossible to beat the 7D used as a sport camera. Not in the budget though if real glass is to be bought. I suppose a non IS f/4 70-200 could mate with it, but I'd rather up the ante on the lens to at least the 70-200 f4 IS ($1300) and use the body he has.

Went out to install my EGT's last night and ran into a snafu....so I polished the tunnel. Needs a couple more passes, but it looks WAY better.

Anyone have a low power fuse holder they like? Sled has an SAE plug with DC already. Of course I found this after deciding where I was going to tap the AC and install the rectifier Cleaner the better. SAE -> Fuse -> Garmin Nuvi, EGT Gauge, USB charging wire. All within 6" of each other and 6" from the plug at most. Single fuse is fine considering they are all wimpy devices. Hardwire and vibration proof are keys. I'd much rather just have a short wire that plugs into my phone than one with a plug on both ends.

What body is it that you have? Be best to use your whole budget on a lens most likely.

What sort of action?

Good luck with that, lol

35mm is REALLY short to have for a long end

My pictures with flash SUCK compared to those without. All the more reason I lean on fast glass.Pretty sure you need 2 flashes to get it to work worth a shit. Flash is for light control and fill. Just take it off the camera. 2 flashes is cool but I do just as well with one and the light in the room/outside. That part I am okay with, difficulty is when the light is too low for a person shot and you need more. Then I get glow face and dark background thus the reason for the second.

My pictures with flash SUCK compared to those without. All the more reason I lean on fast glass. Pretty sure you need 2 flashes to get it to work worth a shit.

And the Tamron 18-270 is fucking useless so I'd rather shoot with the 17-55 and crop/digital zoom the shit out of the picture than use the Tammy.

You mostly shoot people and people doing things, I mostly shoot stuff or multiple people. Thus my preference for the wide end and yours for the zoom. I NEED the zoom though and should be getting it before Saturday since Aidan has only 2 soccer games left.

Both

Pretty sure Matt will tell you the same about the 24-70 on the FF...although the 70-200 I guess resides really often on his camera

That is a very good lens as well. I am going to give this a go because I can always return it for another. The extra range is to get the player that my daughter is doing the scrap book for. If you need reach you have the 55-200. I am only such a dick about right now since the 17-55 COMPLETELY evolutionized what my pictures look like.

If you mostly shoot portraits then perhaps slightly longer on both ends is okay, but if you are taking full body shots or shooting general things the wide end is more important.

Buy this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sony-DT-16-50mm-f2-8-SSM-Lens-with-Hood-and-Caps-/281437011935?pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item4186f3ffdf **assumes that lens tests well I did ZERO research on it as I know nothing of the Sony branded lenses but from a configuration situation it is the choice on a crop frame.

MUCH more important than range. You can always crop you can NEVER get light when it isn't there.

What did you end up with? It is branded Sony, but made with good glass. Glass is much heavier. DT 16-105 It has an F3.5-5.6, but my camera is showing it at 3.0 at times. The guy talked me out of the zoom based on my 55-200 and felt it was best to replace my cheap 18-55 and add a bit more range and width. So my wife should be able to get good pics when I am not with her. I can't make every football game to watch my daughter cheer, so it was imortant I get her fixed up. The DT 16-50 has plenty of range. I would highly think about swapping to it. The 50-100 extra in length you really give up for in lens speed. MANY of the pictures I take I couldn't shoot with a 3.5-5.6 and considering it approaches the higher at the long range it makes the long range not so usable.

Smartphone you would use something like FuncGen. Do yourself a favor if you use that source. Measure the source first as some have a built in roll off that can confuse the measurement.

Voltmeter and a smart phone/tablet/computer running a function generator. Audacity is free and will do what you need. Instructions a few posts back, if you have questions ask. If you use the headunit for the sub, then you need a 2 way crossover. I'd personally get the 4 way advanced instead of the 4 way as it allows custom biquads. Same price as well. The 2 way is for a driver + sub. The 4 way splits one input into two outputs that you can configure anyway you want. It will NOT do summing for a sub though. For a front stage only 4 way is what you want. They email you those once you buy them. No need to worry about it up front.

I'm ready to ride....but my sled deal fell through. Come up here, I have 3 atm. double

Rode 350mi once trying to ride about 210. That was a long day and expensive bar tab.

Now I just have to get the thing to accept GPX files so I can rip routes ahead of time. Having confidence you know where you are makes it way easier to book hotels.