///M5

Bet that is no different than the $15 ones other than the cable is longer

If you just want to read faults and reset the standard ones the amazon bluetooth connect to your smart phone reader for $15 works. I looked at them, but figured they were junk. Do you have one of have ever used one? Has worked on all my cars. WELL worth the $15

Complaints are almost all install faults

If you just want to read faults and reset the standard ones the amazon bluetooth connect to your smart phone reader for $15 works.

2010 Escalade Base AWD. I'm dying for anything. I've searched like hell, but as always there is stuff on older models and nothing on new. Not a surprise. I would also assume it is a bus as the Lux in the last gen was and moving "backwards" they probably wouldn't do. The amp has a Delco part number from what I can find so far. Having a wiring diagram may just give me the motivation to do something. Wishing I hadn't sold my 880 as it would be easy enough to use a Joyconn to read the steering wheel and use that volume control exclusively saving the knob for the rears only. It really does sound fucking awful. I'll need the RPO numbers from the build sheet. You typically find the build sheet inside or on the back of the glove box, or on the cover over the spare tire or rear package area cover. It will be roughly a 3X5 sticker with a shit ton of 3 digit codes. The RPO numbers I will need to know about are UQS, Y91, and UQA. You will find either one or a combination of 2 of these RPOs. Apparently there were 4 system set up options on the Base AWD Esky. FWIW I glanced at some of the diagrams and based on internal terminating resistors I am going to say most of the controls are BUS based.Has Y91, UQS but no UQA

When things are installed correctly 3 bands ought to be enough if they are flexible. EQ is only for removing anomalies that you couldn't handle with the install work.

Holy Chill Matt

2010 Escalade Base AWD. I'm dying for anything. I've searched like hell, but as always there is stuff on older models and nothing on new. Not a surprise. I would also assume it is a bus as the Lux in the last gen was and moving "backwards" they probably wouldn't do. The amp has a Delco part number from what I can find so far. Having a wiring diagram may just give me the motivation to do something. Wishing I hadn't sold my 880 as it would be easy enough to use a Joyconn to read the steering wheel and use that volume control exclusively saving the knob for the rears only. It really does sound fucking awful. I'll need the RPO numbers from the build sheet. You typically find the build sheet inside or on the back of the glove box, or on the cover over the spare tire or rear package area cover. It will be roughly a 3X5 sticker with a shit ton of 3 digit codes. The RPO numbers I will need to know about are UQS, Y91, and UQA. You will find either one or a combination of 2 of these RPOs. Apparently there were 4 system set up options on the Base AWD Esky. FWIW I glanced at some of the diagrams and based on internal terminating resistors I am going to say most of the controls are BUS based.Can't explain how much you rock. Will go dig for those when I get off this stupid conference call.

I would, the 8FE200 and 10 are WAY better drivers than the 6 and they still need a ported enclosure to have an even reasonable midbass response. As for tweeters, location and size we need first

Holy fucking nail biter. I won by 5 points and he was playing Flacco tonight.

Exotic coned mids aren't the best first shot into the realm of active. That driver will get nasty above 3kHz and may not do so well much below. All of it can be tamed, but the nice pass band of it isn't so suited for a car installation IMO. Locations first, then budget & processing determine logical choices. Until really knowing locations and what compromises you need to make in both tweet and mid it is hard to shop. You are right about one thing though, that is a WAY better driver than is in your Alpine set.

You said that much more eloquently than I

Just a wee bit big for that little fella. 4 cylinders. I forget they even make those.

2010 Escalade Base AWD. I'm dying for anything. I've searched like hell, but as always there is stuff on older models and nothing on new. Not a surprise. I would also assume it is a bus as the Lux in the last gen was and moving "backwards" they probably wouldn't do. The amp has a Delco part number from what I can find so far. Having a wiring diagram may just give me the motivation to do something. Wishing I hadn't sold my 880 as it would be easy enough to use a Joyconn to read the steering wheel and use that volume control exclusively saving the knob for the rears only. It really does sound fucking awful.

I had ZERO problems with it, but when I started to look for stuff saving that $1k didn't make sense to me. In your case with a little motor getting a used Holset HX35 turbo ought to really make power and can be had for under $500 rebuilt.

I might not ever add a sub even. I really don't give a fuck about bass. Just want the stereo to sound good. Of course, if the stock console location would take a better driver/enclosure that's a no brainer.

Presumably there is a stock amp in the car? If it's within reach you can intercept the signal cable from the head unit before the inputs of the amp and just solder some rcas and use those as your low level inputs. but depending on where the factory amp is it could be more or less desirable to do it that way.The amp is easy to get, the question is will the signal be effed at the headunit or the amp. I also suspect that if it is in the amp that there is a digital bus for volume and not an analog control. It is the Cadillac version of the bose which is different than the Chevy....at least supposedly. I have found no one who has worked around it yet...but there has to be a way. Amp is supposed to be in the center console with the sub, but I haven't verified yet. In my experience with bose it's pretty level going into the amp, but typically the customers who come in aren't too discerning when it comes to SQ. Will you be using a MiniDSP? Not sure what I'll use. Depends on how jacked the signal is. Pre 2007 GM had a lux and non-lux bose. Non-lux had line level inputs and was GOLDEN for updates. Lux had digital volume control. For 2007+ I can't find shit from anyone who actually knows anything. I don't see why they would step back from the digital volume control bus, but was really hoping they did.

Mine has the 5.1 with 6 discrete inputs. What I can't find is if the volume is on a digital bus or if it is signal level passed to the amp. The amp is a Delco so unless Bose sold them a chip it may just be a dumb gain block.

Weathertech or Husky Liner or other all season mat inserts?

If it is only Frequency response anomalies that the system puts in I can take those out with a miniDSP. If it something else I need to know what it is. Curious actually how the cleansweep/360.3 actually measure the response. If only in FR then they have no value to me.

"Pretty well" may not be good enough. I've seen reference to a big cut in the 100hz octave with a few large boosts in the 500 & 1k octaves. Add to that a HP of >60Hz and perhaps even an active cross on the tweeter and it could be ugly. I'd rather know before finding it and measuring, but will do what is necessary. If the dumb console came out without pulling the seats I'd be happier to go look now.

Presumably there is a stock amp in the car? If it's within reach you can intercept the signal cable from the head unit before the inputs of the amp and just solder some rcas and use those as your low level inputs. but depending on where the factory amp is it could be more or less desirable to do it that way.The amp is easy to get, the question is will the signal be effed at the headunit or the amp. I also suspect that if it is in the amp that there is a digital bus for volume and not an analog control. It is the Cadillac version of the bose which is different than the Chevy....at least supposedly. I have found no one who has worked around it yet...but there has to be a way. Amp is supposed to be in the center console with the sub, but I haven't verified yet.

Ignore that, bastards website is confusing. Doesn't work on 2010 GM Bose.

Is the output on the GM Blose system "normal" if you use a PAC OEM-1? I'd atm prefer to leave the rear of the truck stock and just replace the fronts. It looks like I can do that with it. *just to clarify I only want the rears for the DVD video for the kids and using the stock shit for that is FINE http://www.pac-audio.com/PACProductData/OEM-1/1_Instructions/oem-1_instructions_102302.pdf Obviously the connections show that it works, but that doesn't mean it is worth a shit.

My 2-door has BOSE, but the soundtrack is played by my right foot. ZOOM ZOOM BLAT! The bose in the caddy is downright awful.