///M5

Ha, that was going to be my trick even on the Nexus. Figured having it be awake when I get in the car would be sweet. Difficulty here is that I don't lock it in my garage. RFID here I come.

The architecture doesn't support any standby / hibernation / resume mode. It's either on or off. Boot time is going to depend on the distribution and sd card class. The latest firmware update has an option "hard float ABI" which will help with boot speed. Turning off system logging would help also. As an estimate boot speed is going to be around 10 - 40 seconds. People seem to be getting the lower boot times ~10 seconds with Arch. Rat bastards. 10 seconds in a car is an eternity.

No, you need crossovers as much if not more than eq and 7 bands is somewhat if not completely useless. Perhaps a bit of a catch 22 you are at. You need a processor to decide what to buy, but normally your processor is defined by what drivers you want to make work. Probably best to at least review the processing options before buying anything.

And you really only need one. Consider the $20 an installation expense.

Details!!!

What is it???? x eleventy million

You are going to need $200 worth of clamps. Do not build ANY box that isn't the manufacturers recommendations. I don't care about the power you have. Way beyond the task at hand and will just confuse you in the future. Really a $200-300 for a box isn't expensive as long as it is done right.

You sure that is it? I've seen a lot bigger diameter things stuffed into stock holes. Never seen the element doors off, but you would really, really, really hate to use a 6.5 when you could use an 8.

Don't be so sure. They can take more, but even if there were a 4ohm version I'd buy the 8.

Depends on what you can fit in the doors. Need depth and overall diameter. The bigger the better.

Just need someone to hack the Raspberry PI to run off battery with a 2 second resume and I'm golden. *hopes*

That's unfortunate. Such a pretty truck.And therein lies the problem exactly. It IS a pickup truck and not a sport utility. Even worse that the new pickups are nicer on the inside. Huge blemish in their line IMO. To be fair though it is really a 1998. I realize they have had two model changes since, but they were just a bit cosmetic and not game changers. That and where is the short wheel base version, that long ass bugs the fuck out of me.

My 1995 F150 handled better. And I am getting a black interior, pictures just highlight differences better in lighter colors...

Coyote would be sweet. Here is a rendering of what I think a Caddy dash would look like if I owned one.

I actually prefer the Yukon Denali exterior to the Escalade a lot, but the interior blows donkey. Putting the air vents above the screen is something acceptable in 2002, but not 2007 IMO. Too bad in 2015 Caddy used the odd angles around the screen.

The whole thing is 1992 technology. I expect the next gen to be better but to probably forego the V8 which will kick it out of the running.

If I would have sold all my 3's I'd send you one. Can't quite live without my computer speakers though and they would sort of suck in a car anyways. Running 4" FR's for computer speakers. Super small sweet spot with them though, but considering they are at my desk in my office it is golden.

Any stereo will work being it is a single driver. Testing in stereo won't give you any more information. Just trying to comfort yourself that you don't need a tweeter, that is the only goal. If there is enough sparkle it is then a complete win.

4 factory spots won't keep up better than 2. And they will sound WAY worse trying. It is never a solution to keep throwing drivers at, but instead shop smart.

I like that interior.Seriously?

You are legit unless you burn hydrolic fluid in your diesel. I even think they have a road side test for that.Or you burn farm gas.

Hp tuners is a great tuning tool if you know what your doing. I know a GREAT shop just north of the cities that does an awesome job tuning. You don't just want a dyno tune since the vehicle will be daily driven you want a street tune.I should clarify that I will definitely pay someone to tune the car. Just want to be able to monitor it myself as well.

well, they are hard as hell to tune compared to playing the great majority though a single point. I'd buy/borrow a FR88 or the the like and play with it at home.

Throwing away my stage? Why not drop the 6.5's and 6x9's in their factory spot and have the rear seats down, to avoid the "compression" problem.Anytime you have more than one driver playing the same frequency you destroy your stage. 6.5 and 6x9 components are far from ideal midbasses and using them as such doesn't make sense.

the response or output?