///M5

Not completely. One of three. The logo and such is easily switched out. The P car is the most likely though....we'll see if that changes today.

Problem is part of it won't be public. A demo and outline is different than the details, that will be shared.

Didn't see that. Rattles aren't usually helped by a constrained layer unless you actually constrain the rattling surface, but any tape would then do that. You need to isolate the two vibrating surfaces from each other. Normally a closed cell foam or the like is used for that.

I'll share details...perhaps the full thread only in the RTMS arena, but an abridged here as well.

Steps are: Unlock, Root, Install CM10.1 with custom ROM, then a bunch of apps. UCCW, Tasker, AutoVoice, Music Player, Gapps, .... Draw custom background in GIMP, add UCCW buttons linked to tasker tasks, and automation based on the power status of the car to sync with phone, update mail, turn SMS into speech, etc. Next step is to get it to talk nice with a bunch of devices on a USB hub. Including: mass storage for music, FM antenna, steering wheel controls, backup camera, Bluetooth audio setup (parrot or the like), my phone to dial and pass messages, podcasts from my home pc and so on. I am sure I am leaving some out, but I figure I better get a month or two headstart as I want it done the day I get the car more or less.

Would have been way easier if fucking Windows would pull their head out of their ass and let Google maps work on WIn 8 PC's and Mobile devices.

More info on this preferably a detailed thread. Will do, going to be in December or so though as I won't have a car until then. Lots of crap to try and make work together first.

Porsche logo triggers voice commands. *needs to download Star Trek communicator sound

Annoying as I've gone through three Porsche fonts and this one fails too. First had no numbers, 2nd had effed up letters, and this one has no percentage. Battery should have been reading 7%

I also don't know wtf happened to my Play/Pause and FFWD buttons after the - + on the Nav bar. Music buttons that are persistent is ftw.

Made a really rough front end for the Cayenne. Obviously way more work to go, but I think it is already better than stock. Words open the most logical app, little app icon next to them opens a folder full of apps that are related. ie, for the MUSIC folder will contain the other music apps: non-current players, DSP, Pandora, Radio etc. Really not sure which buttons I will push the most so the titles and such will change. I also plan to justify them in the boxes differently, but this was quick and dirty.

It's the hop, no need to read ahead.

err, maybe....for what? This isn't a black and white thing. What is it that you hope to accomplish with tape?

Minus environmental acoustical gain, yes I thought i had read that in the loud speaker cookbook but was not for sure. So why do subwofer companies not do large signal parameters instead? The good ones do small, large and A LOT more. Then others for instance don't even know what t or s are. Kevin for instance. Just refreshing IMO to see someone who is offering a driver bring up discussion points that are not only relevant, but show that hiding information is not the protocol of the business. Definitely gives me a lot more confidence in doing business with Quentin.

Better question is what is the application. 3M does make an OE product that looks like aluminum tape but although shockingly thin has some magic voodoo adhesive layer that does damp. Basically positive that it won't help what you need though.

Didn't Kevin say that Skar's are so magical NO ONE would EVER steal them?

Not sure what you have lying around Brad. What can go wrong will, so if you jumper cable only it'll bite you in the ass. Of course if the drivers you are using have enough efficiency you can use a rather dinky amp and then may get around the hardwire need...but personally I'd feel better being attached straight to the battery. I've done this before, but have always had a tow vehicle with a system in it so it was rather easy to just unplug speaker wires and connect them to something else. I'd actually feel better running a small 12v amp from a cigarette lighter than an inverter and an AC amp.

I bet it is even simpler. It's all been in the box/install. None of the conclusions you've drawn in the topic are correct. The biggest factor in choosing a driver size is the enclosure space and design you need/would like to use. Obviously budget and such are important, but first and always first is the space it will be going into and how best to deal with it. You'd be shocked how a perfect enclosure and a shitty driver can outperform a great driver in a shitty enclosure. And yes, this is regardless of the diameter of the driver.

I've done 415 in a hair over 4. Had an 8:30 in Kansas City and woke up at 4am. Boogie time. I was a bit young and stupid at that point though.

Nah, jet lag

Time Attak and similar styles >>> SPD's. Getting a floating binding is much better on your knees. I use the Look equivalent that I bought used on CL. Seems like this is the way to go. Glad I asked, time for some research I hate SPD's as much as I hate road bike pedals. My boss tore his ACL thanks to road bike pedals. Effin' slippery in a bakery part way through a ride.

I've done 415 in a hair over 4.

Most phones kick out around .5v at full bore with a sine wave. Some up to a volt. If it were my float I'd build up some PA combo's and just run a car amp.

Time Attak and similar styles >>> SPD's. Getting a floating binding is much better on your knees. I use the Look equivalent that I bought used on CL.

This makes me sad, very