///M5

Start small if you go that route. Expect you will blow a driver or two so don't go nuts on spendy ones and also expect that for a year or two your car will sound worse than if you just bought something off the shelf.

Could you post some "general" crossover points for those three segments? Exactly what I did

There is also something like a 17-85 that is pretty decent that maybe sold used.

Long enough for portraits, short enough for general purpose. Barely on both ends, but barely still reaches. It would also mate perfect with my 11-16 2.8 and a nice L 70-200

But that is unfair since I really want a 17-55 f2.8 Canon

I'd prefer the 17 on the bottom

It is going to sell for more than double what you were looking at, but in 10 years it'll still be worth nearly what you paid for it where the other one won't be a good paperweight hardly. Pictures will reflect that value as well.

If you HAVE to go zoom, must buy a DSLR, and going Canon I'd potentially look for: Canon 17-40 f4 L USM Sigma 24-70 f2.8 EX DG Canon 24-105 f4 L USM Canon 24-70 f4 L Tamron 24-70 f2.8 May be others, but that list would net you something worth using. Pretty much whatever they are attached to is fine including the 400d above.

That should be uber cheap. $100 with no lens if that. I'd personally spend more.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-EOS-Digital-Rebel-Digital-Rebel-XTi-400D-10-1-MP-Digital-SLR-Camera-/221245496722?pt=Digital_Cameras&hash=item3383425d92 I'd bet that lens would fetch nearly that. Sad too because it isn't worth it. You need to look for glass that has a camera attached to it, NOT the other way around I'd look in your CL, there is always a shit ton here locally.

TIckets to Europe (and everywhere) vary a lot by the time of year.

$1000 flights $150 * 6 = $900 lodging $3400 - 1900 = $1500 for food or $200/day $500 more in flights has nearly $100/day effect on the food I have bought flights to Paris before for $300. I'd start shopping for deals on the flights and then peruse hotels to see if it is do-able.

How many days and does that have to cover EVERYTHING?

That should be uber cheap. $100 with no lens if that. I'd personally spend more.

Have you actually ever tried to think for yourself?

And enough lightning to read by

80 mph wind gusts

At our beach we got 6" of rain in less than 24 hours

The last estimate I heard was 250,000 homes lost power

We can deal with some serious fucking weather, but part of the city lost power for 3.5 days.

Shit, you'd have had a riot here the past few days.

Surprised search didn't show anything. Simply put. Your sub should only play bass. These are low notes. Your tweeters should only play treble. The are the high notes. Your mids should only play what the tweeters and sub aren't. These are the middle frequencies. Two different ways to do this: 1) Utilizing a passive crossover. These are non-powered electronics that will cause the frequencies to roll off at a selected design point. 2) Utilizing an active crossover. These are powered electronics that will cause the frequencies to roll off at a selected design point. Considering all GOOD passives incorporate some sort of eq & level balance this also needs to be mimic'd in the active world. Normally this will mean some nice equalizer to go along with the crossover. A non-eq'd active setup will sound a SHIT ton worse than a passive setup that is designed well. Basically when you choose active, you are thinking you can do a better job that a marketing $ limited engineer. This requires an ear and a lot of patience and of course is completely customizable to your tastes. Easy choice if you have a great ear and are capable of searching like crazy, doing a ton of technical reading, and generally really are passionate about music. Active all the way then. If you aren't the above the choice is also easy and not the same.

Obviously the extra 4 gigs and SSD on top.

Thing rips. Ended up spending $40 more than what Stefan linked, but only due to a reasonable sale at Microcenter. AMD A8-6600k 3.9GHz FM Richland and an ASUS F2A55-M motherboard. Add 8 gigs of ram and a Samsung SSD and I know longer want to run my own PC. I have not figured out a good way of mirroring the home automation settings either which makes changing a bitch.

Bought a Cougar Vortex PWM fan for my dad's pc since it is sitting on my desk humming at me. Impressively quiet but no way in hell it is 17.3dbA.

I also was under the impression that in top dog spot sits a Nikon. Not based on performance, but performance per $