///M5

For a Double Din so I am probably stuck at 7". Either way for $32 its worth it for a starting point even if I make something, lol. I had visions of using a router.

And I am an idiot: $32 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_26500_Connects2-CT24PO01.html

Locally: Dave Anderson, Bob Brown, Curt Goodrich, Chris Kvale, Paul Wyganowski, Vincent Dominguez, Peacock Grove, Pallas Athena I've been contemplating a Holland out of San Diego though. A few reasons for that which are mostly emotional.

Giant builds something like 80% of the worlds bikes. What they label their own is a great value new.Crazy, what is boutique brands that do then?A bunch including about 5 in the metro. Holland cycles too, amusingly. ...wait I thought you were asking about 953. Boutique would be hand made by artisans. Definitely a necessity for someone of my stature.

My buddies pound snow 5 days a week all winter. Never had a problem. Just an FYI. I used to put 5k/yr and rode year round on a steelie. Frame saver and some washing and no problems.

Non-peaky would be a start. Not the topic of this thread, but the DD were designed with output in mind not a linear response so they may be appropriate for the OP.

Giant builds something like 80% of the worlds bikes. What they label their own is a great value new.

"US"?

953 > Ti > CF > 853 > all other steel > alum > shitty steel that shouldn't have been used

853 is my absolute favorite tubing...but if I have a frame made it'll be 953. Just waiting for non-boutique builders to master it as well.

I use Draftsight...because it's free.

Ah, subjectivity. Amusing what the human body perceives without a comparison. SQ is FAR from the design criteria of the DD drivers.

Mine will pull the ski's a couple feet at around 60-70mph. Until then I don't get traction.

After this breakage I went and bought a helmet. No more riding in the woods without a helmet. I started wearing one when I snapped my first frame.

Are you high? SQ, rofl. In general you could have done way better in the same space.

Chromoly is logical for a fork as the ultra light material isn't as strong when you crash it.

Adrian, if you find a fork here and want to have me include it with the rest of your shipment let me know. I haven't tested yet, but am 99% sure all systems are go. Will do as soon as I hear from you at latest.

I love the fact that the screen support is square, will be super easy to fab something up as I won't have to do a glass mold...as long as it fits in the same space. If it is taller I suppose I could cut some wood to fit the spot and do a build-up/out from glass. If I do that though the question then become at what angle do I do it to maximize the viewing for the driver

I'm not relocating the buttons above and below either.

Hmm, this is a Sharp 6.5" LQ065T9DR51U for which I cannot find dimensions. Trying to figure out how big of an open frame monitor I could put in it's place. Height will be the kicker... Obviously not needing the keys below and the cd slot above will help, but outside of going to a dealer with a measuring tape which will only get me "close" I am at a loss.

If it is canti's and mtb spacing you have on your hubs there should be a ton of forks floating around from the 90's that were removed in favor of suspension forks. I've looked like hell for mine and can't find it. Ritchey fork which was pretty much the bomb for 93.

Other place to look is QBP. Quality Bike Products out of Minneapolis. They pretty much supply more half or more of what every bike shop in the US sells.

At some point buying retro frameset will be cheaper than a fork. Of course there is always Nashbar. http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_174894_-1___ I can't remember if you had road or canti brakes and that is road. Hell I have no memory of what your bike is.

Raise the headset too far? Pull the stem up too much and tightening the shit out of it to compensate causes both exta moisture and stress on the parts. The combo probably killed your fork tube. I did tighten the stem pretty hard but it failed well below the stem. It had barely any rust. I can't be sure or anything before I got it since it's a used, 20 year old bike. New fork and that's that. And I will start looking for a suspension fork and change the steerer tube. I'm really trying to figure out what caused it so I can avoid a future failure. What fork is it? I wasn't saying you did it, previous owner.

Best turbo timers in my opinion use an exhaust gas temperature sensor. But I see no reason for that not to work. Come off the high-way, use engine braking and your EGT's will drop crazy fast. My sled will drop from 1300 to 400F in about 10 seconds. Of course there is a LOT less mass.