///M5

Q is a great driver with one sad reality. Most buy it thinking they need it but the need they had would have been better served by the BL. They just don't state their need so well and after talking to useless sales people in brick and mortar stores and being misled by the mass number of nooblets in the car audio forum world I don't blame them. Be good to share your thoughts. Answers were right above. D2 for a single. And yes, worth thinking about that now as later it makes things more expensive.

Stock stereo grounds are usually crap. I always pull a fresh one. As Impious said, it's almost always a ground issue so make them all your own.

Garrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr, have a happy berrrrrrrthday!

Tail light turned out sweet IMO

And I know my polish job on the tunnel is a bit sloppy, but fuck. Already have a good 6 hours into it so I'm DONE!

Because when you aren't you'll push WAY less air. Pair of Mael's?

Some updated pics of my sled. On snow this time! Front showing that the bars aren't "that" high. Pic highlighting the new LED tail light And the "gauge" package. Crappy light ruins it a bit as it is hard to see my HTC DNA running the Polaris GPS App, but it is in front of the bars. I have a waterproof case that will mount there and it has power which it needs badly when running as a GPS.

<-Wants a 7D M2 or 70D when they release it

How often will they be HUMPING

Every night. Same choice. I don't like buffet's though, but I want the choices.

How far along err what?

You are loading your question. Let me rephrase it for you and answer. Is there a difference if you apply the same power to a driver and change from series/parallel to parallel/series? The answer to that is no.

I know that feeling.

It isn't the questioning that is the problem. It is the belief it is true before thinking/understanding it. In particular when are trying to defy a fundamental law of Physics. Seriously question away, but when you get an answer try to absorb it. If you don't get it, ask more questions. More particularly here, assume that what you think you understood is flat out wrong. Now re-read the thread and see how you think noobs will take it. It'll justify something they also don't understand or mislead them into a direction of testing based on flawed logic and add more mayhem to something that is rather straightforward.

Digging low in the pro audio world usually means a ported enclosure. Using the Crescendo's at first though makes a lot of sense. Really much easier to find out what you don't like about them before shopping. I know without using them what I wouldn't like, but listening is subjective and until you really determine your baseline it's tough. The horns will be a HUGE, HUGE improvement over those bullets.

Fun tack is even better as it replaces the tape at the same time. Basically like sticky silly putty. Office stores have it for hanging posters and such. Hearing aid industry uses it to mount hearing aids for test since they are all formed to human ears and therefore have unusual shapes. edouble's generic aiming may have "worked" in his last install, but there is a difference between worked and optimized and not taking into account the drivers at hand in a recommendation is inappropriate to follow.

$150 + $150 = $300 $300 < $1500 Not including utils in your expense calculation is idiotic. $1500 for something useful is cheaper than $300 in the garbage. I know I'd surely rather buy something for $1500 than throw away $300. You just asked which was more expensive you never asked about usefulness. Perhaps a quick look into the dictionary would give some insight. Merriam states: 1 : involving high cost or sacrifice <an expensive hobby> 2 a : commanding a high price and especially one that is not based on intrinsic worth or is beyond a prospective buyer's means Intrinsic worth and or sacrifice are part of the definition. Price is not the exclusive description. Of course to me personally it is even stronger. The question was rhetorical and I know your response is also about as tongue and cheek as mine. The point of my question though was to relay the most expensive lessons I've had. All of them surround buying something that may have been a deal that I get no utility out of.

$150 + $150 = $300 $300 < $1500 Not including utils in your expense calculation is idiotic. $1500 for something useful is cheaper than $300 in the garbage. I know I'd surely rather buy something for $1500 than throw away $300.

I built a little holder that fit into the same ring as the tweeter to help aim the housing while testing positions.

Somewhere between facing each other and aiming at your ears. Problem with the question is EVERY driver is different. Processing has an influence as well. You need some fun tack and a bunch of hours in the drivers seat.

I get like five plus boxes a week, lol. Deserves its own cutter

Flip blade in about 2 seconds, change in about 5. I keep a couple in my garage and one in the truck.

This one fucking rocks btw http://www.amazon.com/LENOX-20353-SSRK1-Quick-Change-Retractable/dp/B0009ENCV6

What's funny is that I use a box knife for boxes.

I'm a human heater too. During winter it's 55-58F in my room and I sleep in boxers and a t-shirt and only have one blanket. It's pretty fun to get into the office and my hands are burning. Granted I only pedal 10 minutes in the cold but last winter it was down to -5F in the morning In college I relied only on my bike as a form of transportation and pretty much wore a sweatshirt and a down vest even when it was down near -40C. I got funny looks.