///M5

If you can disprove Ohm's law you'll get a nobel prize. Amusingly, the math is rather easy. No calculus required, just basic algebra. V=I/R There is really nothing to "try". It's a scientific fact. If it weren't all of E&M in Physics would fall apart.

Fuck you NE. Can't believe the Texans yanked Andre Johnson. Kicked me out of the playoffs.

Off to the garage.

Yes, but eating that much of anything is bad. What goes in those and the non-sustainability of it make it even more disgusting.

Is there some "feature" in Windows that makes it pause near things you can click on? Perhaps it is only Windows 8 and it's subtle but FUCK is it annoying. *if it doesn't exist I plead the 5th

Canon or Nikon. All depends on budget and use though as they have different audiences. Helpful like a 2" subwoofer! :-D Well, I'll be buying a 70d or 7d M2 whatever they call it when released in Feb.

Canon or Nikon. All depends on budget and use though as they have different audiences.

What size knobby do you need? In the winter I run chains and studs usually, but play on ice a lot. 26x2.something I tried zipties quickly today but they catch on the brakes, since I didn't have time to get the brakes out of the way. With 9-10 inches of powder I really need good traction, it doesn't work with only the front studded. Pretty much ANY mountain bike tire will work that isn't a 29'er. Are you using a studbacker strip? Personally I really like the chains as well. Both studs and chains are a bit unpredictable on raw cement, but the combo on ice is sweet. For snow really you just need to be in the right gear and be diligent. A 28 is pushing it I've studded my own tire using screws. I head you on the right gear, although starting in high gear is not trivial, especially with a road tire in the rear. Huh? All Mt. Bike tires in the US are 26"ers. 29'ers of course not included. For some peculiar reason I thought there are 28" Mtb's. Nope 26" and 700c are the two hoop choices Granted my dad's bike is a city bike (steel framed Peugeot) but it has skinny 28" wheels. It's a hoot to ride on the road with light wheels and low rolling resistance. No 28" exists. They are 700's. Those are all Euro. Americans used to have 27" ones but we discontinued making those a while ago. And yes 700's are actually 622mm. Gotta love "standardization".

Please do explain why tuning to 25hz in a car is a waste? I tune most of my daily driver boxes in the upper twenties and my clients are all very pleased. JL Audio even tunes some of their factory enclosures to 25hz. Some people actually want to listen to music with their subwoofers... There isn't much music that goes below 30hz. And cabin gain takes care of the LF roll off. No gain in tuning lower than what is compensated by the vehicle itself.

What size knobby do you need? In the winter I run chains and studs usually, but play on ice a lot. 26x2.something I tried zipties quickly today but they catch on the brakes, since I didn't have time to get the brakes out of the way. With 9-10 inches of powder I really need good traction, it doesn't work with only the front studded. Pretty much ANY mountain bike tire will work that isn't a 29'er. Are you using a studbacker strip? Personally I really like the chains as well. Both studs and chains are a bit unpredictable on raw cement, but the combo on ice is sweet. For snow really you just need to be in the right gear and be diligent. A 28 is pushing it I've studded my own tire using screws. I head you on the right gear, although starting in high gear is not trivial, especially with a road tire in the rear. Huh? All Mt. Bike tires in the US are 26"ers. 29'ers of course not included. For some peculiar reason I thought there are 28" Mtb's. Nope 26" and 700c are the two hoop choices

deadenhur

I don't believe 0.5lb would make any difference, but shaving off 0.5lb from components in conjunction with a frame that's 4lbs lighter, and I believe you would be hard-pressed not to notice a difference. Good luck shaving 4lb's off a frame. Either way, same effect as taking 4 lbs out of your backpack.

Amusingly, it's less than 1.5lbs heavier than a $5k Trek in 62cm.

<- says the guy with the sub-20 lb HUGE steel bike

The easiest way to make your bike lose 0.5 lb is for you to take a big piss before you ride. And yes, it'll have exactly the same result on your time slips unless you were so uncomfortable having to piss you couldn't ride. Changing the rotating mass however has more of an effect, albeit it small as well. Confidence, how you feel, jumping/tossing/doing other shit with your bike may change. Speed, not so much.

That'll give you 7 bands of control on the tweets covering 5 octaves which in your case is enough. Next question is always space.

Minimizing rotating mass is the only mass on a bike that matters at all. Exactly why I laugh my ass off at people with Carbon bikes and stock wheels. Of course making the big wheel mountain bikes sluggish in mass and gearing; however, the only thing that feels weird to me is the extra insecurity beginning a jump with an easier landing. For me it's a matter of scaling. I'm a big guy, running a 700c wheel with a beefier hub makes sense. If you are under 5'6" or so I'd argue that using the 26" hoops from a mt bike is the most logical at some point of course it becomes necessary. There are some oversized custom wheels and they can be had, tires are just hard. Still makes me want to have a frame built with some. Everything scaled to a normal bike so from a distance it looks like everyone else riding their bike, but the closer you get the more wtf you feel. And yeah, then take it to Japan.

So 26"ers doesn't require an apostrophe, but 29'ers does? Ha, 26"'ers looks funny. Nobody calls them 26 inchers either.

Oh, need to have some idea of processing before shopping as well. Or at least know how far you are willing to go.

You CAN'T shop for mids until you have the tweets figured out. Exactly why what you have currently makes no sense together. I'm always shocked that they are an implied pairing from a manufacturer. Figure out how to get the HLCD's in and then start thinking on mids.

Well the VVX is a turd. But so is peel and seal and you liked that.

I wish they made 32'ers. Then my bike wouldn't look like a clown bike.

They call them 29ers which IMO needs an apostrophe. It wasn't 29 inchers, but literally twenty niners

What size knobby do you need? In the winter I run chains and studs usually, but play on ice a lot. 26x2.something I tried zipties quickly today but they catch on the brakes, since I didn't have time to get the brakes out of the way. With 9-10 inches of powder I really need good traction, it doesn't work with only the front studded. Pretty much ANY mountain bike tire will work that isn't a 29'er. Are you using a studbacker strip? Personally I really like the chains as well. Both studs and chains are a bit unpredictable on raw cement, but the combo on ice is sweet. For snow really you just need to be in the right gear and be diligent. A 28 is pushing it I've studded my own tire using screws. I head you on the right gear, although starting in high gear is not trivial, especially with a road tire in the rear. Huh? All Mt. Bike tires in the US are 26"ers. 29'ers of course not included.

Dude, it's easy. You've been told this many times. Get some HLCD's. They will solve your concern and make it WAY, WAY, WAY easier to run 2 way effectively as they not only get loud but have a rather extended frequency response.