///M5

Couldn't agree more.

Measuring instrument? Caliper, micrometer, rule, tape measure, pi tape, calibrated penis? My penis is wider than the thing so it's hard to gauge the size...... hmmm.m You told me it was like an inch long. Fucking tuna can.

ROFL

No

I'm not angry, just don't like stupid shit

Yes. It is bullshit. It is impossible. Completely impossible. Exactly. To make the claim you are either a moron or are seriously attempting to compensate. And now you found the reasons why I was sure you weren't from MN

Planking fish is always delicious. Not tuna

How fresh? It should really be basically raw in the middle nonmatter what

I never asked a question, just didnt answer yours.

Blow some espresso powder up your nose and smoke some dried beans and you can have the triple threat then. GOOD MORNING!!!!

coffee enema

It is. The fundamental reason for obesity in the USA...along with general laziness, but somehow a lot in your diet seems to coincide with the other. It's worse than pot.

It is. The fundamental reason for obesity in the USA...along with general laziness, but somehow a lot in your diet seems to coincide with the other. It's worse than pot.

It is. The fundamental reason for obesity in the USA...along with general laziness, but somehow a lot in your diet seems to coincide with the other. It's worse than pot.

Run from the rly. Didn't realize they still even made it. Thought the rnx displaced it 5 years ago. And there is no "best" option. Everything is a compromise. If you say best, you should surely clarify for what as there are a ton of other drivers that will do some things better than the ER. I cited that driver as a solid recommendation based on a few factors: easy as hell to integrate (this is huge for those with no experience and may outweigh all other parameters), fairly large frequency range, good midbass capability, no major cone breakup (at least where it would be used) and it's cost effective for a driver that is designed so well. Does this make it the best? Hell no, can it be a great choice for you? Perhaps.

I'll keep this general. Power ratings are usually given at a crosspoint that is 2-3x Fs. In particular true for pro audio. You also trade off sensitivity for frequency response so if it's more sensitive, you can see the roll off up nice and high, that ought to tell you something. The hope in the pro audio realm is that you can make up for some of the lack of low frequency capability with enclosure. Being they are limited in excursion this is really the only way. Mounting one IB will cause it to unload like crazy and really ruin not only it's lower end but the higher as well. Doppler distortion then also comes into play. (ie cone moves like hell at a low frequency while trying to play a high causing modulation on the wave and doppler interference in the output). And yes bandwidth is frequency range, not related but exactly the same thing. I am curious how your goals landed you looking at B&C? In general I am a huge B&C fan, but implementation details are critical once you pick a driver like that.

I'm HUGE in Japan

Crap you are right, I didn't mean to use see me as an asshole but am sure that I am an asshole.

One other misconception is the use of PA drivers. Nearly all of them are designed to work in large ported enclosures. Good luck fitting that in your doors.

The B&C will have nearly no midbass in the car door compared to the Seas. It's absolutely terrible at that. The Seas on the other hand has stellar response down low. Not exaggerated, but it's very composed. Higher efficiency = smaller bandwidth. If you truly need the output of pro audio gear you need to start determining what your compromises will be. A pro audio setup will require more than a 2 way or some extreme measures to make it work and by extreme I mean you'll need a horn and compression driver on the top end. Pretty much no way around that. Even then, I'd prefer at least a 3 way, but it's a car so a compromise is necessary. 6" & Pro Audio with the words bass or midbass should NEVER exist. When someone starts promoting that as an alternative they are either not very well educated, partly deaf, stupid, or trying to steal your money.

Never heard of it

Again unrelated. People see me as an asshole as well, but for different reasons.

Happens to me....although I don't feel ashamed

That's a pretext.

It isn't funny that I picked the ER. It is a super forgiving driver that excels in a 2 way. Great bottom end with some nice midrange as well. And yes, cone material is exactly what typically causes the resonance modes. Fancy cones have audible breakup usually in the lower tweeter range. Obviously if they are high enough up it can be okay, but if the mode has 10dB of gain and your crossover only has it down 6dB you have 4dB of gain where you were expecting a roll off. A notch filter can pull it out completely, but those aren't usually available in a headunit and making one from analog components while not hard is probably beyond the scope of what you want to do. Don't take this the wrong way, but buying that Scan set would be absolutely STUPID if you were running active. A good portion of its cost is in the crossovers and you wouldn't be using them. I also haven't had the best luck with ~7" Scans run in a car door. The Seas do a better job. If it were a 4" mid, then kiss that statement goodbye, but the OP needs a 7 not a mid. That comp set you linked highlights something though that ALL car audio comps suck at....having good crossovers. In general you should figure nearly the same money for drivers and crossover components. So yeah, complete waste to buy a comp set and run it active, but at the same time most car audio sets have a crossover I could build for less than $30 and regularly way less. Now perhaps you know why they all pretty much suck. This doesn't even take into account the compromises they make to make the drivers cheaper in quantity either. Not a single set on the market right now that I like for the money.