///M5

I am hung

Sometimes should be all the times

5.25" is a terrible size for a midrange, woofer perhaps but not a mid. 3-4" is much better but in this case can then even be done without a tweeter to simplify things....potentially. Definitely a 6.5" won't fit airspace wise without a protrusion.

Fan is helping that poor amp, she was HOT. I was too lazy to pull out the big Crown. Figured cycling at 500w for a day or two will also do the trick.

Thanks Stefan, downloading.

500w and she's still cold running at 10Hz. Things a beast and even free air it'll take more than I'm giving it.

And damn that's cheap. You don't want a ticket here

You don't want a double

You can buy that somewhere? I thought they had shops.

Just bought some wheels for the bike. Mon Chasseral for $350. WOOT! Fucking hubs are $750 retail.

I need some spread on bedliner. Anyone have something they'd recommend? For a sub box for the boat. Will be carpeted later but I want to seal the ply with something somewhat cosmetic.

roflcopter

Perhaps I will embed that in the beginning....I've got no sound. Now how to download youtube.

I like it.

just realized I am analyzing our business and presenting next Tuesday for an hour. I need to find some motivational quotes,

Might be funnier if I knew what they were making fun of.

Wow, those are huge Without a protrusion not really big enough for a 6.5 sealed, but either sticking out or a different setup based on the questions above.

Your choice is to either see if you can truly fit a comp set up in your pillars, separate the tweeter/mid and put the tweeter up high, or to use a simple active processor a 4chn amplifier and pick your own drivers. Normally I don't push active setups on someone who hasn't done them as the integration normally means at first they sound worse than a passive but since you have install experience and tuning experience it may make sense for you. If you keep your headunit a single 4chn minidsp can take care of the crossover or of course you could buy an amplifier with a digital processor built in. Before shopping for drivers you should do two things. 1) Decide how big the pillars can be so that we know an approximate enclosure volume and 2) Choose whether you feel you want to try to conquer an active setup or not.

I should clarify what is sad. Marketing is winning over science. Not you or your buddies fault that you believed someone, it's just a shame that it's a sham.

There are plenty of headunits that have active crossovers built in. HP for the highs, BP for the mids, and LP for the subs. Obviously having these controls at your fingertips help. Usually the ones with this feature also have either flexible parametric or lots of graphic equalizer bands. There are also off board processors that will do this and even allow a 3 way setup (ie midbass in the door, midrange and tweeter up high), however, between the proc, the drivers and amplifiers your budget will be consumed more than once. This means you get to make the compromise. So then it's time to prioritize what is really important. So far I have stage, vocals AND both passenger and driver. To do that we need to break your budget or compromise. Time to give up one or more if you want to stay under $500. I'd rank them if i were you.

OMG, was searching for things UNRELATED to car audio. Clicked on a link and ended up on CA-F. Obviously saw the LP stuff and clicked. R...and...a...l..l is as confused as ever and a mod. I nearly shat myself. Can't believe anyone EVER in their right mind would think ANY of the LP stuff or Blues is worth purchasing. I thought the available information on the internet would kill stupid stuff. I guess since Kevin is still here I should have realized better.

Sad state of affairs when an installer wants to use a DD-1. It is perhaps one of the biggest rip offs EVER in car audio and considering the ass hats that make money in this industry that is saying a lot.

By active I meant crossovers/processing which in reality would be best done with a headunit, but your budget allows that. With your pillars that'd be my choice; however, it'll kill the stage for the passenger if you did what I'd do which is why I'd ask. The difficulty you have is that you want height. That means moving the speakers up. Tweeters alone "can" make this work but it's way easier if you bring the midrange higher. With your pillars you could easily hold a rather beefy mid up high and slap a midbass down low and have a kick ass stage, stellar vocals and dynamics. The trade off is the response to the passenger. Since you sit on that side half the time I'd probably just put a tweeter up high. This can also still be improved if you are willing to run the drivers active and shy away from the car audio world, but this isn't a trivlal thing to do which is why I asked. Since you stated you have installation experience, I assumed that also meant tuning experience which would make this okay. Most people without end up with something worse than passive, but of course the opposite can be true as well.

Interesting. I don't really need another amp, but I'm open for something. Coming this way ever?

Bass Engine Pro is great, Imprint I am not so much a fan of. Any of the older BEP units are sweet.