Shogen

Thanks Mark.. Kinda feared this... Pricing looks AHHH!!! .... Well I contemplate getting a box for this Kicker because a nice woofer could be had for my current 12" sealed enclosure.. Am I being stupid??? Should I just box up the Kicker and power it off my JL 500/1 ??

Sale fell through on the 300/2 ... hurt my little heart that this guy was making a deal and trying to have me bid war with some douche.! Anyway... I'm in the market for a 2ch amplifier that is in the 100-150 watt range... My choices good enough? or do you have more for me to look at?

I hit up a thread on the argent section... hopefully I'll get a response there...

Goes out to Argent, What would it cost for a box @ 4.5 cubes Approx: Depth: 19" Width: 32" Height: 17" Shipped to 08816 Thanks

lol... stop asking question JD.... hahaha .. TBH I always ebay my wires and have yet to be disappointed. 50ft spool of 1/0 awg wire cost me about 85 beans IIRC...

I vote yes because I would like to annoy him with various questions about his product... And some about life. ... So yes!

So I tried last night and again this morning .... Only thing that happened was this threw my amplifier into "low impedance" mode ... I didn't get any real readings at all...

2 Clicks to the right. 200 acv Black cord in the com port, red cord in the left port. (10a) Thanks... Jumping in the car now!

not a thread high jack... but... I want to setup my JL Audio amplifier so I can get the correct gain setting... What do I select on my DMM? Thanks

I may reground it to a new spot. Ohhh, the woofer is definitely wired right, I quadruple checked that and then quadruple checked it again before I screwed it down. With the LOC, what does it mean by levels? And would you know which direction of the screw would do what? Take a picture of the LOC if you can get a good one... I would like to jump in but can't picture what you mean in my head... lol

BTW, you're a life saver bro.... That worked perfectly... Just sat in my car in the driveway messin' about and I giggled at my shitty 12" Pioneer woofer sounding pretty damn good.... Thanks man...

lol... now you're helping me? ... anwyway, I think I have the signal sensing turned off... is that what you mean?

Should have mentioned that.... I meant the amplifier doesn't turn on til I go high in volume.. The JL has a green power light and it doesn't light up until I pump more volume through the head unit.... When I thought it was a gain setting I was riding around, then the amp kicked in(powered on) the bass was all loud and not what I wanted...lol... So the amp doesn't TURN ON/POWER ON until the volume gets increased to a certain level... I have the gain on low sensitivity on the amp and gain turned half way so I can know when it kicks on.... Thanks for the suggestion though Dictator

So I got my JL 500/1 for my sub setup Friday, didn't have time to install it til today... One issue... The amp doesn't seem to kick in until I hit about 50% of max on my Pioneer HU.. I know it is not the HU because it was beatin' in the morning with my old setup (Kenwood).. Two things happened when doing the "swap" of amplifiers... 1. Apparently one of the ring terminals on the wiring was shitty, and came out... 2. I replaced the terminal with a new one I bought at BestBuy just so I could get it done... When installing this onto the capacitor that was already in my car I accidentally touched the wire to both ends... Spark and sizzle but everything seemed ok... Now again... the amp seems to work but only past level 35-38 on the head unit... Think I blew my cap? I have to get new wire so I will run new ones without that capacitor anyway... But any ideas on the subject??? Thanks guys...

That box looks sexci!!!

Don't think it would necessarily "hurt" your subwoofer but if not set properly could hinder it's performance.

Amazon has different retailers but you can buy thing DIRECT from Amazon and that battery looks like a complete fake.... The sticker even the logo look different.... lolz Anyway, I'm with Lancelot... Would def have bought the XS Power to support the community and SSA... But price wise the Kinetik was better for me and I called Kinetik and the confirm that I have full warranty with them from this vendor I got it from. BTW I bought it off of onlinecarstereo.com. They sell some items that aren't covered by manufacturers warranty but I emailed and called Kinetik before pulling the trigger.

I know everyone keeps telling me to go to Argent but it would cost me the same if not MORE to go that route, not that I'd totally mind if it were like $50 dollars but I'm afraid to even find out what shipping would cost on a box like this....

I guess that might matter if you actually pay for shipping. I get all items from A M A Z O N free shipping no matter what it is. Also the vendor I ended up actually purchasing it from offered free ground shipping on my battery. So most places offer it FREE in hopes of you actually buying it, usually it is slower shipping but free.. Anyway, I've never heard that about the floating voltage of Kinetiks.. Where is your source? Like was this tested and posted somewhere? Or you got this from a personal experience? I am still within my return policy if that is the case? Also where could I see that about he XS power batteries? Thanks.

Thank you guys for jumping in here... I know I am not an expert on this subject but I gave the info that I was somewhat sure on... As far as brand concerns I don't know different than Kinetik and its limited since I only just purchased one within about a month or 2 ago... All I see is XS power here but that doesn't mean it is necessarily better, but it could be right about it offering more for the money? I cannot judge that seeing as how I got my HC1800 for close to $150 below their suggested retail and basically cheaper than what A M A Z O N sells it for. My reasoning for buying it from the vendor I did was the possibility of returning the item if it did not work for me. One thing I can say is Kinetik offered to send me new battery posts because the items I received had definitely been beaten during shipping and the box had a hole and the hardware that came with it wasn't inside it. So I know they are decent on the cs side of things...

XS power are fine as well. There are many brands but I cannot speak to what I've not used. I know they are high on the charts though. Just wish they didn't have soooooo many models with similar specs. Makes it harder to really just choose, at least for me. @ Julian.... can you recommend a comparable XS POWER battery to the HC1400?

I'd def get rid of the stock battery for a Kinetik any day. Now going with a 1400 and 600 isn't bad id say go for 2 of the same battery. So 2x HC1400 would be best. Apparently it is better for the car to have to charge one size. The electrical isn't smart enough to know which battery to charge fully or which is the "main" battery. There are ways to ensure both batteries get full charges but I think it requires some extra hardware and willingness to up keep the system. I could be somewhat wrong here but let's see if anyone else jumps in.

As far as I know the batteries will def help. Adding more batteries, having multiples will cause more strain on the electrical. I faced a similar dilemma and ended up with a HC1800 under the hood and nothing else besides eventually BIG 3. I say go as big as will fit under the hood for now. And def when you go to the BTL get a HO alternator.

I wish. No materials or tools renders that impossible.

Well. This is the box: