hdrox88

I have one. Was there anything specific you wanted to know?

I blew up an xcon on the amp mentioned before by trusting a DD1. Maybe I didn't know what I was doing, just saying.

It depends the person setting it up and the one in control of the volume knob. You could blow up the Z on that amp if you didn't know what you were doing. If you pay attention to what you are doing you shouldn't have much issue. HelI, I consider myself a novice and I had a 600rms sub wired to 2 ohms on a brz2400.1d and never had any problems.

Sounds like fun...or a nightmare, depending on your organization skills.

I purchased an optical cable for my home audio from monoprice a while back with good results. Hopefully this turns out the same. I almost got their RG6 cables for the double copper shielding, but I was worried about flexibility.

Going to give the monoprice cables a try. Just ordered two of these: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10218&cs_id=1021814&p_id=2864&seq=1&format=2

I wondered who was going to be the wise guy and link to kimber. Lol As I was reading on other sites, kimber always seemed to come up there as well.

If you will be using the saz 2000 mentioned in your other post I would run battery negative to frame, engine ground to frame, and ground the amp to frame if at all possible. As long as frame, engine, and battery negative are all connected together you can connect however you want. If it were me, I wouldn't want 2k watts running through the chassis/body. It would probably work, just might have voltage issues depending on how well grounded it all is.

You seem to be using frame and chassis as two different things.When you say chassis, are you referring to body panels? You always want to use the frame, not body panels for grounding. It's also best to leave any factory grounding in place and just add to it. Don't remove if you can help it, they put things in place for a reason.

I won't be doing it. I don't want to ruin a perfectly good box just to hear the sound difference of something that has a large chance of failure. Thanks for the input swift.

This is a basic sketch of the box from the top view if I were to do what I am trying to accomplish. From what you are saying, it would probably not be in my best interest to change this current box.

Unless Andrew locked the door on him, why does he reach for the lock at the same time as the handle? The two guys outside applauding the failed escape made me laugh as well.

Right now my box is set up with sub and port firing to the rear. I am considering cutting a hole in the top for the sub and plugging the rear hole to see what it does to the sound while keeping same box size and tuning. Due to box dimensions, the only way to do it would put the sub right at the port opening in the box. It's a typical slot port so it won't be blocking the port. I remember reading somewhere that it's not ideal to have the sub close to the port if you can help it. How big of a deal is it and how much would it affect what I am trying to do? Depending on what the sound difference is will be deciding on how I build my next box.

I appreciate the offer, but that wouldn't quite be long enough for my setup.Thanks for all the input everyone, pretty much confirmed what I had already come up with on my own. Time to shop around.

I had thought about monoprice, but since it will be a little tight under my center console I am looking for good flexibility.

I was looking on the SSA store and was curious about the soundrive cables. They are on the pricey side, my question, are they worth it? Would the sound really improve as they lead you to believe? I've always run twisted pair, currently RF brand, never used coax before. From what I have read, if there isn't an existing noise issue, most any cable will do. Though, the only info I run across seems like it's all just speculation. I just moved my amps around and now my current rca cables are way too long.

Thanks guys. I always slapped things together in the past, so I'm trying to do a halfway decent job this time around. I got a little more done today, both amps are playing beautifully. I think I can now say that my front stage is on the loud side. Wow, these Seas mids bridged on the P900.4 are pretty powerful for the investment into them. First run video at the end of this post. Don't mind the crappy mic induced distortion. I turn the sub off part way into it and the phone mic still can't handle it! Making a flat surface for the P600.2. In the truck now. All wired up. Toolmaker time.

Made some more progress today. Running 1/0 power and ground for the PPI Phantoms. Convenient spot for drilling the firewall. This is where the P600.2 and P900.4 will be going. Fuse/Distro blocks. P900.4 on 1/2" MDF for a mounting surface. Test fit of the front half of the console.

Those doors totally fit that truck. Looks awesome!

I think the punch pros have a passive built in.

No problem

Wire from amp to the "in" then wire the mid and tweet to the labeled points on the xover.

I've never used the crescendo set, but most are the same concept. Does the crossover have any labeling on it? Tweet, mid, etc? One wire(+ and -) will go from amp to the crossover. Then connect the tweeter and mid to the correct points on the crossover. Repeat for other side. Edit, beat me to it.

I'll need to get that book one of these days, just never been much of a book reader. :/

Glad you found the issue. Upload vids to youtube, then link or embed here.