blakflash

same here... still waiting to hear from someone

your juicebox video inspired me for a full IA setup ( minus door speakers ) least until they get their comp set done/out. they're making comps?? are there any projections yet

i'd sell them and go with the warden... that's what I'm about to do with my blazer whenever I get the money for it.

I'm going to put my money on box tuning

can anyone tell me the xmax on a the 21" warden?

3000 at 2 ohms wire 1 ohm on each channel i wouldnt doubt it can run at 1 ohm though. I've put my 1500 through hell on occasions and it never failed me. well as long as you dont go below .5 on each side

was running some numbers and other random things after rewiring my subs in series with vcs parallel... and came to realization about something. i've been running that audiopipe at .35 ohms for the last 4 months thing it was at .7. makes me wonder how i never managed to break anything. I know i have good listening habits but damn... That realization raised another question tried searching for it but couldnt find a good explanation. Do overload protection circuits limit the output power or shut the unit down?

I'm in the same position you are I was looking mainly into this for my doors. if it doesn't work out i won't be so pissed about it since they are so cheap for the time being Dayton ND105-4 4" Aluminum Cone Midbass Driver 4 Ohm | Dayton Audio ND105-4 Aluminum Cone 4" driver Full Range Driver mid bass extended range line array monitor point source aura Neo-Sym last_chance_save_green | Parts-Express.com i also saw these as well Tang Band W4-1720 4" Underhung Midbass Driver | Tang Band W4-1720 Tang Band TB Speakers midbass underhung compact speaker petesting | Parts-Express.com Tang Band W4-1658SB 4" Midbass Driver | Tang Band W4-1658SB Tang Band TB Speakers compact speaker neodymium driver | Parts-Express.com

think i'm going to try these out for the time being Dayton ND105-4 4" Aluminum Cone Midbass Driver 4 Ohm | Dayton Audio ND105-4 Aluminum Cone 4" driver Full Range Driver mid bass extended range line array monitor point source aura Neo-Sym last_chance_save_green | Parts-Express.com if that doesn't work out. I think i'm going to move my dash speakers to the doors and get some 6" midbasses for the dash good idea or bad idea?

mr clarksville tn. i may not have a choice in the matter of getting one made. noone makes them. i even searched for kicks nothing on that either. i was looking around and comparing charts of 4" and 6.5" woofers last night... all night to be exact lol. mostly peerless, tang bang, and dayton. they are very close to each other I know the 6.5 go lower but i'm only looking to enhance from i would say the 90-200 range. I'm curious about something though I was running test tones to determine the freqs that were without changing the crossovers and eqs. running from 70-150 to the ear everything sounds even and get fairly loud (neighbors came outside wondering what the sound was. Guess they are used to other peoples sub abuse) . switching over to music the midbass is still barely noticeable. My hu can boost 100 hz and 200 hz but that causes distortion when i get it to reasonable level.... btw in case anyone is wondering i got the id ctx 4" in the dash and stock "components" in the doors. I'm begginning to think its the HU thats not in aggreeance with me the more i think about it. the stock one had more midbass than i do now with and without the amp. tbh i would like it if someone here lived near me this is actually a problem I've had for years when upgrading. losing the midbass. My idmaxes can play that range.. with pride at that. but for some reasons doing it that way doesn't sit right with me. I guess since it's a car. My suv with my bm's it wasn't a problem... for those of you that listen to rap music. listen to the song i'm going in by drake. the part that is lacking to me is he high end bass lines that are in :55-1:30

I don't have the skills for that. if it were flat opening i could probably do it but then id probably have to cut into the door as well

don't have the right tools for it :S. still working on that lol and my woodworking skills sub par at best.

i figured as much...wish gm would go with 6.5s and 8s i got stuck with 4, 4x6, 6x9. the only good thing they did was make the 4x6 a component set but the damn things still have almost no midbass. anyone know of where i can find 4x6 to 6.5 adapters??

damn lol. good driving though. be glad you werent here. they take youre car leaving you stuck with the payments. happened to a friend of mine. 3 months later saw the car back on the road again as an undercover.

is there such a thing as 4" or 4x6 drivers that can handle midbass or are these things just not meant to play it? If so who makes one?

the front battery is new as well as the terminals but I think I'll gp back and solder the front connectors down. the ground from what I've read I may have to run it from the front to rear due to gms wonderful handywork. I even checked the grounding locations for the factory keyless entry and antenna motor and they sit at around 1.2 as well when compared to the front. any suggestions on fixing the light dimming problem? It only happens for a split second but still its annoying when on certain songs. I'll modify the ground tommorrow right now I have them on a seat belt bolt the threads are in/under the floor i should say which Is why i thought it'd work because first contact was actually to the floor.. Oh and I have a 220 amp alternator the original was a 105 or was suppposed to have been it had been replaced with bosch alternator before I got the car.

damn that sucks and I grew up like 20 minutes from there

two idmax 21d2 v3 sealed in seperate chambers audiopipe ap1500 the 2ch is some spl amp i found in a closet. not sure who left it there says 360 on it so i'd assume about i can do 180 watts at 2 ohms been a pita finding info on it

noise free so far except on the 2ch amp but its not noticeable unless the volume is turned pretty much all the way down. I assume thats the amp since the noise isn't being amplified. the only electrical issue I have is the lights dimming only on bass hits but not on bass tones/notes when I turn it up. I should have sufficient alt power and I would have thought the rear battery would keep that from happening but it's not? any input on that? I also read that insufficient grounding can cause amps to overheat which mine does shut off for a second or two at high volumes and I do have it wired to .7 ohms (its 1 ohm stable) but i wouldn't have thought that enough to push it to its limits because I'm sure the impendence rises to an acceptable level while in use. those two things are what originally got me checking resistances

I did both. the one with the high resistance is with it hooked up but it's only at that one point onward. when i say battery i mean the terminal that connects to he battery. with the exception of the high reading on the rear battery when connected the only thing i wonder about is that amp ground and if that is sufficient enough

was doing research while looking up good power wires and the effects of resistive connections i happened to come by was this AGCO Automotive Repair Service - Baton Rouge, LA - Detailed Auto Topics - Replacing Battery Terminals the part that shocked me was the box in the middle

i'm concerned because I want the most out of what I have. And my biggest concern is with the resistance I'm getting when hooking up the rear battery and why its like that. 30.0+ ohms not .30 incase thats what some thought. isn't that odd. My second concern was if the resistance on the amp grounds was high enough to cause damage or not with it sitting at about 2ohms And no I did measurements from alternator to battery, alternator to chasis at multiple points, alternator to engine, battery to chasis at multiple points, battery to engine and then went from battery ground to amp grounds, then battery ground to other points i could ground at. then battery power to the rear with and without the rear battery attached.

yes they barely register .01 with the cable i used to test the cross car resistance is at .02.

anyone??

how much resistance is too much on a grounding point? Ive already read that under 1ohm is optimal but after doing some checks i'm just not going to get that in the rear in comparison to the front. my lowest reading in the back was between 1.8-2.1 Is that good enough? My next question is on the power wire. I'm using the rear battery as a distro for my amps. measuring from front to rear then from amp to the the end of the wire is normal. but when i connect all to the battery the rear battery and measure I'm getting 30+ ohms on all connections in the rear even on the wire that is coming from the front battery. also this occurs on both ground and power wires. the battery is an kinetick hc800 I'm assuming this isn't supposed to happen. my biggest question is why it happening.