prodigy215

I've been waiting for almost TWO weeks to see the BTL Recones back up on the site. What is going on here?? I have several competitions that is just going to go past me and nothing is happening with the BTL service. I mean I really like the subs but the service for BTL that i've been receiving is very horrible. Im on the verge on switching over to RE and purchase the XXX's. Can someone please give me a answer on these Recones for the BTL's??

No answer??

I've been looking on Fi website for the past two days and I have not seen the BTL under the "Recone" section of the website. I want two 12" BTL's recones fully-loaded. How could I go about getting the BTL recone??

Oh ok, thanks alot!

recones are quite easy but take a bit of patience and concentration. plus if you don't get it on right the first time well, your basically fudgeed after the glue dries and could possibly need a new recone kit. That's why I went with the slower drying epoxy. Just to give me more time. I didn't need it. 20 minute would work fine. Anything less than that and you better be an expert reconer.Also, shims were not included in my recone kit. I made them from a of the Kroger version of Equal artificial sweetener. 1" wide by 7" long. Six of them fit perfectly into the gap. Bend them in slightly at the top so you can quickly drop the cone in and get all 6 inside of the voice coil. Since there are six, I align each one with one of the 6 bolts holding the frame to the motor. That makes sure they are evenly spaced. Here are my steps: 1. Test fit the the kit using the shims. This ensures that everything is even and you can practice getting all 6 shims inside of the coil. 2. Remove the shims. 3. Mix the epoxy. I use a small plastic container. The kind you get from a restaurant when you order salad dressing on the side. 4. Spread the epoxy around the surround landing and the spider landing. I used the full tube of epoxy for an 18" sub. Don't drip any in the motor! If you don't trust yourself, cover the motor gap with a circular piece of cardboard. 5. Remove the motor cover and evenly space the shims in the motor gap. 6. Line up the tinsel leads on the kit with the terminals on the basket. It would suck if you had the leads on the wrong side. I work with the terminals on the basket next to me. That way I know how it is oriented. 7. Carefully push the kit down onto the shims and into the motor gap. 8. Line up the cut-outs for the bolt hold on the surround with the bolt holes on the basket. Make the final push until the surround and spider touch the glue covered basket. 9. I use a single finger to press the surround into the glue. Press, move 1/2" and press again. Repeat until you cover the entire circumfrence of the driver. 10. Then I carefully push down on the center of the cone a little. This seats the spider into the glue. 11. I add a weight onto the center to hold everything. For my 18's I used an RE 8" sub. 12. Wait. Don't rush things. My epoxy said everything would be cured in 24 hours. I waited 48. 13. I'll add dust cap instructions after I install them. -Robert Quick question. With lining up the "Tinsel Leads", do I have to solder the tinsel leads onto the terminals or tape it? reply asap. thanks