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pherz1er

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  1. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ heres a pic of the T2.200 and T2.100 the hammer is suposed to get here tomorrow.
  2. Nah,I ended up in a bad spot and sold most of the equipment and I had to start from scratch. I'm all caught up on bills now and I'm planning my new build at the moment. I'll post up once I get started on some of the fabrication. As for equipment,all I have gotten together is an alpine 9831 from one of my previous systems and the amps. A Tru T2.100 for my tweeters, T2.200 for the mids and Tru H-1 hammer for the subs. The speakers, subs and processing unit are still to be determined.
  3. Thanks for the reply. What are the disadvantages of running active off of the amps built in x-overs vs. running them off of an active capable head unit or processor?? I'm probably going to go with a 2-way set up first. I have had a ton of people tell me the same thing you did about the 3-way being hard to tune especially for a beginner. As for placement I can pretty much do anything the kicks, doors, A- pillars etc. I was planning on doing some experimenting with placement once I purchased the new drivers. The space I have to work with is not unlimited but I think I can fit almost anything you can throw at me with a little custom work.
  4. Or would lossing the 50x2 and running a higher quality 2-way active set be a better bet? I'm trying to spend under $600 on the speakers if that helps.
  5. I am planning a new build and I want to run an active 3-way set up. I'm new to the whole active thing but have been told by more than a few people that building my own 3-way is the way to go. My available power is 50x2 rms for the tweeters 100x2 rms for the mids 200x2 rms for the midbass I am at a loss when it comes to choosing raw drivers. Any recomendations? Also will the fact that my amps are not made by the same manufacturer affect the sound?Or would I have to be superman to hear a difference?
  6. The kicks sound like the best idea but I'm already losing a lot of foot room with the 10's being mounted there. What kind of mounting/aiming would you recommend if they are installed in the dash????
  7. Thanks for the kind words everyone!!! I'm not really sure. I got mine from parts express. Not the cheapest place to get it but I was able to order most of the stuff I needed from one place. I'm going to try to find the ebay seller vladd mentioned for the rest of the heat shrink I need. I got them from home depot in the electrical section. They come in a pack of 100 for $9.99(FYI:way cheaper than lowes which only sells them in 10 packs).
  8. I was thinking about some door pods. Since they are not built yet, aiming can be whatever I choose. Another route is to build them into a smaller chamber next to the 10" in the kick panels. What do you think would yield the best results?
  9. I'm not sure, I got mine from my work. It was remnants of a roll that they were finished using. I'm still trying to get my boss to get me a quote on some smaller rolls of it for some friends. When I find out the cost and where to get it I will post it up here.
  10. Thanks for all of the replies guys. ps:those hybrids look really nice!! But are way out of my price range:(
  11. Finally got my EQX today. Its an older model but seems to be in perfect shape and all controls are the same as the current model. I traded a couple video games and some 6x9's for it locally:)
  12. Those all look pretty nice! I like the pts logos with the curves under them.
  13. The hertz HL 70 3" cone midrange is also an option. would a 3" or 4" be better for my application?? I am also open to suggestions of other mids that would out perform the ones I have mentioned
  14. BTW should I be concerned about the 4's not blending well with the 10's??????
  15. I can get a hold of the hertz hv100 4" pretty easily. I might go that route in the future. Thank you for the advice. 10's are still a go though.

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