ok i have a pair of these: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.c...tnumber=294-650

and a pair of these: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.c...tNumber=264-422

the B&Cs say 8 ohm nominal, but then it says Re: 5.2 ohms. so that means that theyre actually 5.2 ohms each?

and the Seleniums say 8 ohm nominal, but it says Re: 5.9 ohms.

im gonna wire 1 B&C and 1 selenium in parallel to ch1, and the 2nd B&C and 2nd selenium in parallel to ch2. at first i was thinking it would make a 4 ohm load per channel, but would it really make a 2.76 ohm load (5.2 ohm and 5.9 ohm) ?

(ripped from bca)

Resistance vs Impedance:

Until this time, we only discussed resistance. I said that resistance is the opposition to the flow of current. While this is true, it would be more precise to say that resistance is the opposition to the flow of direct current. Impedance is the opposition to the flow of alternating current. AC causes some devices to act differently than they do with DC. This is true with speakers. If you use a voltmeter to measure the resistance of a speaker's voice coil, you may read something like 3.2 ohms (resistance) even if the speaker has a rated impedance of 4 ohms. The impedance of a speaker is not a constant. It's actual impedance changes with frequency and can vary greatly. Manufacturers give you a nominal impedance, which is generally the average impedance that the speaker will present to the amplifier when driven within the part of the audio spectrum that its designed to reproduce.

I couldnt have put it in better words so might as well use theirs heh

so in general, im looking at around 8 ohm each?

im gonna wire 1 B&C and 1 selenium in parallel to ch1, and the 2nd B&C and 2nd selenium in parallel to ch2.

Dude, unlike everyone else you get more retarded and not less overtime. Perhaps try to absorb what you read for once and stop listening to other idiots from FL

Either way those are nominal values to really be sure as I have told you before you need to measure.

whats wrong with the way im going to wire it? its a 2 ch amp, thats why im putting the Left front and back speakers on 1 channel, and rigth front and backs on the other...

Why would you want the rear fill to have the same volume level as the front stage....

I would put the entire left front stage on ch 1 and the entire right front stage on ch 2

then if you need the rear fill power it off the HU rear output...

becuase 1, the mids are gonna be getting a ton more power than the tweets, so im gonna have a seperate smaller 2ch amp for the tweets, and a big 2ch for the mids.

and 2, powering off the HU = no crossover for the rear speakers.

whats wrong with the way im going to wire it? its a 2 ch amp, thats why im putting the Left front and back speakers on 1 channel, and rigth front and backs on the other...

You never, ever want to run two different speakers in parallel to the same amp.

why not? theyre both gonna be crossed over exactly the same...

how would i do it then? i dont want to wire right mid1 and right tweet1 to channel 1, becuase the tweet would then get like 150w rms or more.....

Edited September 8, 200718 yr by pimpedout97x

why not? theyre both gonna be crossed over exactly the same...

how would i do it then? i dont want to wire right mid1 and right tweet1 to channel 1, becuase the tweet would then get like 150w rms or more.....

That doesn't mean anything. As for your wiring question you should have thought about it before buying the B&C or your amps. All drivers connected to any one channel of an amp without a passive crossover need to be 100% identical otherwise you are going to have all sorts of issues.

i didnt buy amps yet.

can you explain the issues? you're the first one thats telling me this.

Post an impedance plot of both speakers and look how they vary. Then realize on top of that those are nominal charts and not exact. The response could very well end up being all over the board. It'll basically sounds like worse shit than your system already does. You are breaking every logical car audio "rule" in your installs. It may be "loud" but for the money you are arbitrarily throwing at stuff it could be way louder and actually sound good.

You need a separate amp channel for every different type of driver. I would also say it is not so intelligent to run different drivers that are playing the same frequency range. It really won't help your system.

You say this is the first you have heard of this, but what about cdtjones or the bafoon with the different JL subs. Everyone watched that. Not only by default are you doing the same thing, you are connecting them to the same amp, and expecting different results or for us not to attack it? *I may have his name wrong but I am sure you know who I mean

Don't mean to always be singling you out, but you really should take a step back and look at your real system goals and discuss those before all of the little pieces. Of course, it could be a location thing too as in your area there seem to be a bunch of nutheads that want loud and have no idea how to get there and instead compensate with lots of ill placed drivers.

well first off, as ive said 908345 times before, what sounds good to me, and what sounds good to you, is 2 totally different things. im not into all the imaging and 100% SQ chit. it doesnt interest me, period. im happy with how they sound how i have them set up, and we can leave it at that.

so lets see here. say i was to make a DIY component set and run active. your saying i need an amp for the mids and an amp for the tweets? ive seen NUMEROUS people on any forum make a DIY component set, and run both mids and tweets off the same amp with the mids/tweets wired in parallel.

I don't really know why you're asking questions if you're committed to doing it your way. Just wire everything up and if it doesn't catch on fire, you're ahead of the game. If it does, well, keep an extinguisher close by

ive seen NUMEROUS people on any forum make a DIY component set, and run both mids and tweets off the same amp with the mids/tweets wired in parallel.

Then they don't know what they're doing.

what exactly will it do to the driver/amp if i wire 2 different mids to one channel? thats what i want to know.

Might blow something up, might not.

Go for it.

im asking for an explanation as to HOW that can happen....ive been asking that for like the last 3 posts and neither you nor M5 have answered that specifically......can you?

not trying to be a dick, im just wondering. i know you and m5 have a total different perception of what SQ is compared to what i consider SQ....

It can happen because the combined impedance might be too low for the amp. It could happen because one midbass might receive more power than the other. It could happen because one mid decides life simply isn't worth living anymore and self-destructs.

Who knows.

load wont be below what the amp can handle.....how can one mid get more power than the other?

load wont be below what the amp can handle...

Are you sure?

With the way the speakers impedance curves are going to be, who knows how much power is going to be sent to them each...you simply have no way of knowing unless you actually measure it in real life.

Christ, just get it over with. I honestly don't care if you listen to test tones all day long, but either listen to what's being said or go away and do what you're going to do anyway.

both mids are the same impedance, if anything, theyre .5 ohms off at the most...

not trying to be a dick, im just wondering. i know you and m5 have a total different perception of what SQ is compared to what i consider SQ....

you have no fucking clue what SQ is

just because one mid bass has the same impedance load as another DOES NOT mean they respond to the freq the same... Each drivers response is different from design to design... (which is why many suggested to never mix subwoofer brands. Why would you get a Kicker L7 and a SI mag)

The impedance of a speaker is not a constant. It's actual impedance changes with frequency and can vary greatly. Manufacturers give you a nominal impedance, which is generally the average impedance that the speaker will present to the amplifier

Not all drivers are created equally.... (correct me if i'm wrong jimj or M5 I might be totally of basis on this one)

Edited September 9, 200718 yr by theabunai

so lets see here. say i was to make a DIY component set and run active. your saying i need an amp for the mids and an amp for the tweets? ive seen NUMEROUS people on any forum make a DIY component set, and run both mids and tweets off the same amp with the mids/tweets wired in parallel.

if you want active, you need 2 channels for each set of drivers. can't wire the mids in paralel with the tweets on the same channel and expect the active crossover to magically separate the frequencies.

so lets see here. say i was to make a DIY component set and run active. your saying i need an amp for the mids and an amp for the tweets? ive seen NUMEROUS people on any forum make a DIY component set, and run both mids and tweets off the same amp with the mids/tweets wired in parallel.

if you want active, you need 2 channels for each set of drivers. can't wire the mids in paralel with the tweets on the same channel and expect the active crossover to magically separate the frequencies.

x2

u proll were mis lead on other forums i highly doubt it was a 2 ch amp they were running most likely it was a 4ch... save urself the headache go passive n call it a day...

Edited September 9, 200718 yr by MINO