I hooked up my type r 10 and the it didn't get nearly as loud or play as filling of bass as the Icon did, the icon was only at half gains on the rf p1000bd, it almost seemed like the Type R was really hollow or something. I played Speaker Boxx by Outkast and the type r hit pretty well but it just didn't sound that great, (also, the type r is dual 4 ohm so I hooked it up at 2 ohms and turned the gain all the way up, the birthsheet says 825rms @ 2 ohms) then i swappedthe Icon back in and turned the amp down to about 3/4 of the way up (700 watts if the amp was not underrated, birthsheet says 1310 rms @ 1 ohm) and I put Speaker Boxx back in and I couldn't handle it, it was shaking everything in my car and making my eyes blurr and vibrate and it was making my face itch and my ears tingle a bit again. it was hitting crazy hard for a single 10 and it is not even broken in yet, the type r definitely has more play time on it then the Icon does.. Hope this helps some of you out there, I love the Icon. I will be buying more.. The only other sub that I have had that has done this to me is the 12W7 but I would have to say it doesn't sound as clean as this Icon 10. Oh, by the way, both subs were in a 1.25ft^3 ported box that is in the picture in the rides section in the 02 Trans Am. Thanks again SSA for an amazing product.

lol...sorry but the statement of "also, the type r is dual 4 ohm so I hooked it up at 2 ohms and turned the gain all the way up, the birthsheet says 825rms @ 2 ohms" just makes me laugh...turning the gain up is a horrible conception of how much power an amp puts out

and just guessing that 3/4ths the way up is about 700 watts cuz it sounds like in that area is not accurate at all.

Nice try at a comparison though...No one in my area has even heard of SSA nor any of the other smaller companies.

indeed. full gain doesnt necessarily mean "full power" (e.g. an amp rated at 1000w doesnt mean its putting out 500w at half gain). its possible you werent sending the ARRRRR very clean power. set your gains with a dmm and then write your impressions.

thanks for your initial comparison tho man

indeed. full gain doesnt necessarily mean "full power" (e.g. an amp rated at 1000w doesnt mean its putting out 500w at half gain). its possible you werent sending the ARRRRR very clean power. set your gains with a dmm and then write your impressions.

thanks for your initial comparison tho man

Just curious as to what setting you put the DMM on to check the watts or what the math is that you have to do, I have never done it before. I am not a professional watt tester or something lol

Edited October 26, 200717 yr by Rezac

Need to measure the voltage & current simultaneously. Therefore, need two True RMS meters.

well, you can check it here:

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63933

although it may be argued by some people, its worked fine for pretty much errbody on that forum

well, you can check it here:

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=63933

although it may be argued by some people, its worked fine for pretty much errbody on that forum

Thanks, I need 31.6 Volts then... Time to download a 45Hz tone.

The major problem with that method is that it doesn't take impedance rise into account...if your in-box impedance is markedly different than the driver's nominal value (which in a small ported box, you're going to get impedance humps), you're going to have a lot less power than you may think.

For example, I have an e12a.22 in a 1.5cF enclosure, and an octave above tuning it has an actual impedance of 9 ohms...no way to know that by a DMM alone

The major problem with that method is that it doesn't take impedance rise into account...if your in-box impedance is markedly different than the driver's nominal value (which in a small ported box, you're going to get impedance humps), you're going to have a lot less power than you may think.

For example, I have an e12a.22 in a 1.5cF enclosure, and an octave above tuning it has an actual impedance of 9 ohms...no way to know that by a DMM alone

I had training on all this about 3 years ago when I was in the navy but then never used it again so I don't remember how to do it all.. I only have a DMM here, no o-scope..

Need to measure the voltage & current simultaneously. Therefore, need two True RMS meters.

*whistles*

The major problem with that method is that it doesn't take impedance rise into account...if your in-box impedance is markedly different than the driver's nominal value (which in a small ported box, you're going to get impedance humps), you're going to have a lot less power than you may think.

For example, I have an e12a.22 in a 1.5cF enclosure, and an octave above tuning it has an actual impedance of 9 ohms...no way to know that by a DMM alone

I had training on all this about 3 years ago when I was in the navy but then never used it again so I don't remember how to do it all.. I only have a DMM here, no o-scope..

Well, for some reason the gain dial broke inside my amp, good thing I have hardly used it.. I will have to exchange it for a new one and try it more, I got this one to 38 volts, supposed to be 36.1 so its not to far off, I was playing 45 hz after i set it to 38 volts and it sounded just awesome, so loud, I am very impressed that a single 10 can get that loud.. I will actually go make a video of it right now..