I have a question about the power wiring of my amps. Hopefully this nice diagram will let everyone understand.

Thanks,

Ben

you can, but it isn't necessary, as long as the primary fuse is of the correct size.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

So should I just get a primary fuse that is small enough to protect the 4ga?

fuse both 1/0ga and the 4ga after the distro block if the distro block is not fused. if your amps are close enough(mounted close enough together) and the gounding lenght 1ft-2ft is close enough than a grounding distro is not necessary. just ground them together. i have my amps grounded seperatly as both my amps are mounted on each side of the trunk.

A fuse is a security blanket, however if you are intelligent with your wire runs it isn't 100% necessary. I guess I am saying I wouldn't use one, but if you are at all insecure about your wiring capabilities it is something I would then recommend you do.

So should I just get a primary fuse that is small enough to protect the 4ga?

just the fuse on the primary run of 1/0 is truly all that's needed. you can add a fuse on the 4ga after the distro, but it's not needed, will only serve to add resistance.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

I would fuse at the battery and that is it. That should keep the car from catching on fire if it shorts, maybe. Should wire carefully with cable that big, capable of carrying that much current. Look for sharp areas, pinches, bare wire, tie it up; the usual stuff and it should be good.

sounds good, thanks alot guys

Yeah, adding a fuse adds resistance, but if your not competing in SPL sound off's it's not going to make much of a difference in the current flow. For comps I remove all my fuses, but for driving around I'd say it's pretty stupid not to have the amps fused. I'd rather take the chance on frying a fuse rather than frying an amp. If you get into an accident the fuse by the battery will help protect your amps, it's not just there to help with a bad wiring install.

Yeah, adding a fuse adds resistance, but if your not competing in SPL sound off's it's not going to make much of a difference in the current flow. For comps I remove all my fuses, but for driving around I'd say it's pretty stupid not to have the amps fused. I'd rather take the chance on frying a fuse rather than frying an amp. If you get into an accident the fuse by the battery will help protect your amps, it's not just there to help with a bad wiring install.

The fuse on the power wire isn't there to protect your amps, it's there to protect the wire. The fuses on the amp protect the amp. The wire for the comp amp, if under 2 feet, doesn't have to be fused, the chances of it causing a short are very small. 200 watts could run on 8 gauge. The 4 is overkill, so the wire won't be taxed hard at all.

The main fuse is there to protect the wire from burning up your vehicle if it shorts, but it also protects amps from frying if there's a short. Not all amps have fuses built in, none of my amps have fuses on them.

The main fuse is there to protect the wire from burning up your vehicle if it shorts, but it also protects amps from frying if there's a short. Not all amps have fuses built in, none of my amps have fuses on them.

That's ghey...they must have alot of confidence in their customers install ability and the quality of their amps!!

Only the cheaper or lower powered amps I've seen have built in fuses. When you get into the higher powered amps and have to use ANL style fuses they're too big to put on the amp itself, so they let you put it somewhere else. My front stage amp is rated for 60 amps, the Maxi size fuse is also a bit too big to fit on the side of the amp and still fit the end caps, so they have you put your own fuse on the wire.