M3 124D

Well, looking over the specs of the driver, I wouldn't expect any real low bass from it to begin with. When you say you don't have any output, are you referring to the low bass frequencies? What kind of vehicle do you have? How/where is the box positioned?

Punching in the numbers seem to indicate a port tuning of 32Hz and not your estimated 36Hz. Not to worry, you probably wouldn't notice much of a difference anyway.

You may have issues with phase. Try reversing the connections on the speaker to see if you get an improvement.

Best,

Mark

no low bass? what a waste of 500 bucks. well i guess these ARE junk.I screwed my self on these didnt i?

no low bass? what a waste of 500 bucks. well i guess these ARE junk.I screwed my self on these didnt i?

ouchies 500 bones? wow.

Based on those specs I would classify that driver to be geared more towards SPL than anything quality based. If you think everything is set up properly, look towards the environment. You never said what vehicle you have or how your sun is oriented.

Apply some eq if you have it. The sub should handle that with little issue.

Best,

Mark

Oh i forgot i have a 99 S10 Blazer 4dr. If i throw a lot of bass boost, low frequency EQ, or loud i get bass. but that seems to Destroy any sound i have from my Front components Which are powered by a 150.2 memphis amp, i have the crossover set around 100 Hz on the fronts or as near as i can tell. Every where i read i keep seeing that install is key to proper performance. Imean my front stage is setup awesome My doors are fully deadened, i took the plastic door speaker mounts off and duplicated them with MDF. I have over 100 lbs of Dynamat (i know theres better)in the truck, i have built every enclosure i have been reccomended for 1 sub. Today i even switched the sub i had been using for the one that i was waiting for. So it is not a sub issue i believe it is my install. i have about 100 bucks worth of wasted MDF in sub boxes that wont be any good to anyone. I dont know if anyone local will buy them from me and im sure no one wants to pay for them AND shipping

Edited December 11, 200717 yr by brokeitagain

Oh i forgot i have a 99 S10 Blazer 4dr. If i throw a lot of bass boost, low frequency EQ, or loud i get bass. but that seems to Destroy any sound i have from my Front components Which are powered by a 150.2 memphis amp, i have the crossover set around 100 Hz on the fronts or as near as i can tell. Every where i read i keep seeing that install is key to proper performance. Imean my front stage is setup awesome My doors are fully deadened, i took the plastic door speaker mounts off and duplicated them with MDF. I have over 100 lbs of Dynamat (i know theres better)in the truck, i have built every enclosure i have been reccomended for 1 sub. Today i even switched the sub i had been using for the one that i was waiting for. So it is not a sub issue i believe it is my install. i have about 100 bucks worth of wasted MDF in sub boxes that wont be any good to anyone. I dont know if anyone local will buy them from me and im sure no one wants to pay for them AND shipping

Kay, now we're getting somewhere. I'm not sure what you mean by the sentence i bolded though. Do you mean you swapped out your M3 with another M3?

Others should be able to chime in here now that you provided more info, but I would play with placing that box within your truck if you can. Or, just apply eq to the point where you're comfortable with it and leave it.

Best,

Mark

Ya i switched to the other M3 to see if it was a driver issue.

The sub and the port are on the same face of the box, i have tried sub up, forward,each side and back. i have not tried to downfire it. When i set the EQ and loud for maximum bass once u open the door and get out you cannot hear bass.

If i play a 20 Hz test tone the truck will flex like mad but theres no sound just roof flex and the rear window looks like it wants to jump off of the back hatch

Umm, no sound perhaps since you can't hear 20Hz...

i know that 20 hz cant be heard.useless posts like your are the reason i hate ca.com.

I was simply stating that my sub does work and does have some output but seemingly not in the audible range. jesus i thought i found a place with out douches but i was wrong

No need for attitude, read your sentence.

20hz flex like mad and NO SOUND...obviously you thought you could hear it when you typed that sentence.

If i play a 20 Hz test tone the truck will flex like mad but theres no sound just roof flex and the rear window looks like it wants to jump off of the back hatch

It is really hard to help you when you aren't really helping us understand your issue. It could just be your expectations that are wrong.

This may not be the help you're looking for but, I say you sell them subs cause i feel ya when you say you almost want to just give up on it all. I experienced the same thing with the lack of performance of a different brand of subs i owned and it's a pretty chitty feeling to have. I did this, and i did that, but it didn't work. Then i did it all over again for like 50 times and still nothing! In the end though, it wasn't the subs, box, amp or install. It was just my expectations were too high for the set-up. And the day i figured that out was the day my 15" Q arrived from Fi audio. Cause it pretty much does what i want it too... Roof flex, WITH SOUND! Good luck bro

no im done gong back to stock i have wasted too much time with this i am tired of asking for advice, i will just have to say that i dont know what i am doing and im too stupid to figure out simple stuff like this.

the roof flex i wasnt worried about getting i dont get any sub output unless i jack the bass controls all the way up, then it just ruins the front sound. I dont know what i was thinking when i thought these subs would be louder than the Memphis Power Reference subs

Edited December 11, 200717 yr by brokeitagain

Ya i switched to the other M3 to see if it was a driver issue.

The sub and the port are on the same face of the box, i have tried sub up, forward,each side and back. i have not tried to downfire it. When i set the EQ and loud for maximum bass once u open the door and get out you cannot hear bass.

If i play a 20 Hz test tone the truck will flex like mad but theres no sound just roof flex and the rear window looks like it wants to jump off of the back hatch

Hopefully the bold works now...

Yes, I believe it is all based on your perceived expectations of your setup. I believe you expect to hear and feel the bass outside your truck, which simply isn't happening. You said that you used a pile of deadener on your vehicle - this is probably why you aren't getting what you want.

Question: How does the sub sound *inside* the vehicle? I bet it pounds pretty darn hard.

If you want to shake the neighbours, remove said deadener and get that truck vibrating like a tin can. That should do it.

If you want decent bass output *inside* your truck, I think you already have it.

Best,

Mark

When i set the EQ and loud for maximum bass once u open the door and get out you cannot hear bass.

so, the output you are looking for is outside the vehicle??? like mark touched upon above, what's it like inside the truck? without boost/without boost?

and m3s will drop low, they are box dependant, like most subs. hiwever, as mark again touched upon, they are designed more for output rather then quality. that's what their mclass subs are for. or the LVS. so they like to be in peaky boxes, hence the higher tuning.

and as mark said, if you're after sound outside the vehicle, all that deadning you installed is the issue. not the subs/box/amp. and if you're after sound outside the vehicle, you need to be at ca.com. sorry bro.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

no im not looking for output outside the truck, thats just asking to have your chit stolen. But i am going to try the 2 sub setup as that is not the direction i wanted to go but i guess i have to. i got the chance to listen to a 2 door blazer with 2 M3 12'' like mine on a 850 watt SSL (soundstorm=cheap) and it sounded very good i would imagine that SSL is about 300w RMS, so i should be able to get it right this time.

Ca.com can suck my balls u post a question and have to weed through BS before theres any real answer.

EDIT as for bass output with door open theres none inside the vehicle. I certinately dont want it to be loud Outside the truck with normal listening(hence the deadener) theres too many people in this world that refuse to work for what they want so they resort to stealing it from people who work.

Edited December 12, 200717 yr by brokeitagain

I can't believe nobody's hit on this yet, but my opinion is cancellation. I'm guessing the dual sub setup you had was sealed and you chose to go vented with a single driver now to increase efficiency. Well, with that you added another POTENTIAL problem area in both cancellation and impedance spikes. Every application will differ, so just because you're drivers may be in the same spot as the previous application, doen't mean it will sound the same.

Do me a favor for shits and giggles. . .

If you can, fire the sub at the back and push the enclosure as far against the tail as you can without hitting it. Now place your head at the farthest point you can from the enclosure front which will be either the edge of the dash, or better yet, stick your head under the dash by the firewall. Then tell us what happens.

There was a very good writeup on the site about impedance rise, and if you're not totally familiar with this principle, I suggest reading it.

Good Point Ryan. Just block off the port and see if your bass comes back...

no i have not had a sealed setup since i had 10'' kicker comps in '05, i had those on a 760 watt pioneer that every one owns one or two of. I found that a ported system like my 2 10'' PR's was what i was looking for. That got loud for $120 a pair on 1,000 watts but that box is tuned so high I think it is 41 Hz, i just went with the audio shop reccomended and let them build it. Then with this i thought i knew better than they did but i was wrong. I have decided that since i have failed at this i will let them handle the install this time i have given up completely.

You guys have tried helping me but i am just too dumb to understand what you are trying to tell me

Edited December 12, 200717 yr by brokeitagain

You're not too dumb otherwise you'd have never posed the questions. This is the time right now to take the problem head on. With something like this, once you get it figured out, it's twice as rewarding, and then you might just start to understand it better. A forum is a great place for help, but sometimes the answer isn't as obvious as it seems and can be just downright impossible to diagnose over a computer.

no im not looking for output outside the truck, thats just asking to have your chit stolen. But i am going to try the 2 sub setup as that is not the direction i wanted to go but i guess i have to. i got the chance to listen to a 2 door blazer with 2 M3 12'' like mine on a 850 watt SSL (soundstorm=cheap) and it sounded very good i would imagine that SSL is about 300w RMS, so i should be able to get it right this time.

Ca.com can suck my balls u post a question and have to weed through BS before theres any real answer.

EDIT as for bass output with door open theres none inside the vehicle. I certinately dont want it to be loud Outside the truck with normal listening(hence the deadener) theres too many people in this world that refuse to work for what they want so they resort to stealing it from people who work.

very glad to read that.

so if the truck is completely sealed up, it's loud inside? open a door and it goes away? like a front door? if so, that's completely backwards from most installs, usually opening a door/window up front increases the output.

does either amp have a phase switch? i know the clarion has several switches, i can't recall what teh pr has. i also have seen a few installs using the clarion where we at first thought it was a sub issue and it was simply due to the amp not being set correctly. in all cases, the ower had tried to adjust stuff and flipped a switch or two and there wasn't any bass. make sure that everything on the amp is correct, no switches are in between positions.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

well who would have thought that bad, brand new, rca's would cause so many dumb problems? I drove the blazer to work today and called the audio shop owner where i had been buying my stuff,he came down to my shop and looked at it and wanted to reset gains. He was testing the HU to see where the RCA's clip at on the volume dial and came in and said that i had a bad rca cables. Well i ran a set temporarly through the truck....WOW!........FKIN WOW! AT FLAT EQ NO LOUD 1/2 gain! I had both subs in and it so loud i could not stand to be in the truck. He said that there is alot more in the system, At flat settings no BB/LOUD my preouts clip hard at 27 of 62. His reccomendation was a line driver to up the preout voltage, or to purchase a head unit that has a higher preout voltage. He sells Kenwood, Clarion,and JVC HU's. I saw a Kenwood that caught My eye and i like the way it looks, He said it has the higher preout voltage that i would be looking for.I think it was a KDC635MP maybe, i know the number was 635, He said That the clarions are nowhere near as good as they used to be, and i am inclined to believe him with demoing a few of their HU's they sound so chitty even compared to the $99 Kenwood Hu's he has on his display board. I wont even consider JVC Those just do not appeal to me at all

Edited December 14, 200717 yr by brokeitagain

what h/u do you have? I am not a fan of line drivers as they really aren't necessary.

WOW!........FKIN WOW!

Kinda makes me wanna go check my rca's... Congrats Man!

what h/u do you have? I am not a fan of line drivers as they really aren't necessary.

I currently have a Pioneer DEH P6400 i got it in FEB of 2003 brand new it was a gift from my GF so thats the biggest reason for wanting to keep it, but i have a 88 fullsize chevy that it would work in if i get a new one for the blazer