the Alpine's manual should be able to tell you how to set it to allow active capabilities

i did read it and need a Lawer to deciffer it...

ill try but Alpine Tech support if gone by the time i get off work

edit: i just contacted AP Ts and he said on the bottom of the unit is a switch

S/R/SUB - front - rear - w/sub

3way - front Tweeter - rear Mids - w/sub

what do you suggest ?

Edited December 18, 200717 yr by Lord Baccus

2 way is for normal mode

3 way is for active mode

the Alpine's manual should be able to tell you how to set it to allow active capabilities

i did read it and need a Lawer to deciffer it...

ill try but Alpine Tech support if gone by the time i get off work

edit: i just contacted AP Ts and he said on the bottom of the unit is a switch

S/R/SUB - front - rear - w/sub

3way - front Tweeter - rear Mids - w/sub

what do you suggest ?

So it's just like the older alpines . 3 way mode will allow you to use the crossovers and the time alignment built into it . Just remember running actively means you need a seperate amp channel for each driver

i cant use my 4ch PPi ?

i thought it was 3way - tweeters / mids / with sub.

i have to get another amp ?

i cant use my 4ch PPi ?

i thought it was 3way - tweeters / mids / with sub.

i have to get another amp ?

No you don't need another amp. Think one driver, one amplifier channel. So two tweeters + two midranges = 4 channels.

you can use a 4 channel and a sub amp . 2 of the channels for tweets , 2 of the channels for mids and obviously a seperate amp for the subs.

Sweeeeeeeeet

ill set the crossovers on the amp to: Through >>>

and let the Hu do the driving !

now i need a set of componets.

you don't need a set of components

you need a pair of good mids and a pair of good tweeters

And some hefty door preparation

you don't need a set of components

you need a pair of good mids and a pair of good tweeters

And some hefty door preparation

i.e. ( need example )

i dont know how to Sq just yet im still learning

i did look up a lot of other Explorer's and 98% had the front speakers in the stock location

2% had kick pods

Edited December 19, 200717 yr by Lord Baccus

I'm not saying you need to build kick-pods.

Here are 2 examples of work done on the doors :

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7964

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...10337&st=30

The drivers in my doors also do not play anything higher than 250Hz .

Kickpods if you are going the typical 2 way mid/tweet. I would also keep the tweeters in the kicks if they are playing below 6kHz... but these at just general ideas.

I have door speakers, 6x9's, (which are all 3-way) and tweets, maybe some extra crossovers would help...but

If i take my subs out i got SQ install....I=WIN

That is about as funny as the original post.

I have door speakers, 6x9's, (which are all 3-way) and tweets, maybe some extra crossovers would help...but

If i take my subs out i got SQ install....I=WIN

not going neer that 1 with a 10 foot pole

Justin :)

can you or doug help with me with placement and or suggestions as to where to put a good set of Mids & Tweets

and if you know anyone that has a decent set or either local

You aren't listening. You need to experiment. Perhaps you should first just use the stock locations and figure out what you don't like and then describe it and we can start adjusting. There is no "pre-configured" solution for an Explorer. All vehicles, and more importantly all drivers will have DIFFERENT sweet spots. You need a baseline to start improving. In your case I would highly encourage you to start out with a paper cone mid that has no funny anomalies in the response and a tweeter of your liking. My guess is you will like the metals, but perhaps I will be surprised.

glad i could make u smile

otherwise the post woulda been pointless, lol

You aren't listening. You need to experiment. Perhaps you should first just use the stock locations and figure out what you don't like and then describe it and we can start adjusting. There is no "pre-configured" solution for an Explorer. All vehicles, and more importantly all drivers will have DIFFERENT sweet spots. You need a baseline to start improving. In your case I would highly encourage you to start out with a paper cone mid that has no funny anomalies in the response and a tweeter of your liking. My guess is you will like the metals, but perhaps I will be surprised.

Cool ill pull off the door covers and Peel&Seal them this weekend...

a friend is giving me a set of components tonight so i can get started

ill use double sided tape to place the tweeters till i find the sweet spot.

ill start with the stock location, for the Mid driver

any crossover points i should be aware of ?

i notice crossovers have jumpers for different slopes /

is this for the tweerer / mid or both ?

i can control these from the 9887

i have a laundry list of questions i need to ask and takes too long to type.

oh and Thank you for helping

You can't even start talking crossovers without discussing drivers....

Peel n Seal I wouldn't use in your doors, it will fall off. Go get some Raamat or Second Skin.

i think hes geting me a set of MB Quart 6.5 ?

dont know what model yet ?

Curious if you like the tweeter in that set.

i would wait and see if shawn is sellin his van 1st.

he has AA polymids for 35$

i would wait and see if shawn is sellin his van 1st.

he has AA polymids for 35$

let me know for 35.00 there sold

but for now i'v removed the SST 6.5

and put some P&S on the doors to dampen the buzzzzzzzzzzzing and rattles

installed the crossover

added the addapter plate i cut from Mdf

added the MbQuart Qm130 5.25" mids

after moving the tweerer around with double sided tape for an hour

i rested here as this is where they sounded best to me, with my eyes closed

the differance is Wild, im hearing things that were not there before ??!!!??

i faded the sub DOWN to blend in with the music

using the Kove Audio Aphex Ax1

and Wow what started out as a joke thread has become very seroius indeed

EVERYONE that hears the system now is impressed with more than the Bass

im sure theres better mids & highs out there but for now this is a great start

Edited December 26, 200717 yr by Lord Baccus

Umm, that isn't installing that is bolting in drivers. You really, really need to treat your doors. While your bandaid size installation of deadener may have knocked out a few rattles it didn't help how your speakers sound. You need 100x that much at least, definitely a baffle, and some decoupling method would help as well.

its a start now that x-mas is over,

i can get some more deadner and do the doors properlly.

i started with the stock location as suggested...

sounds WAY BETTER that the coaxels

its a start toward some kind of Sq