So far I have: Hyundai Accent GT: gutted, stuffed with 65 cans of expanding foam, 14 gallons of bondo that need removed from the windows and redone by welding sheetmetal instead. 320lbs of 3/4"mdf for the false floor, ceiling, doors, roof, dashboard, and subwoofer chamber/wall. I had 5 1gallon buckets of Spectrum Firewall...sold 2, trying to sell the rest, and a 5 gallon bucket of Spectrum Sludge...trying to sell that too. 6 Optima Red tops...getting 2 more. An Audio Control 6Xs, getting a second one when i get the crossovers so I have 2 bandpassed signals and 1 HP, all at 24dB/oct, then using deck/sub amps to cross the subs. 2 Vifa XT25TG30 Ring Radiator Tweets, a KX200.2 to run them 4.5kHz on up, 2 Adire Audio FR125S's and a KX350.4 to run them at 8ohm, 4...yes FOUR Adire Audio Extremis 6.4's and a KX850.4 to run those...massive overkill...I like deep loud throaty vocals for Pac. I've removed the whole cooling system, and maintained the mounting hardware and belt for the AC compressor to fit 1 of to HO alternators..prolly Iraggi. I've built most of the dash from 3/4"MDF, including the front stage that is aimed and staged. I removed everything unecessary and that will cause air leaks to the exterior...so the dashboard will be filled with expanding foam, I maintained only the heater and took all vents off...1 hole that will be plugged during burps.

I plan on building a large dual chamber sub wall/enclosure with 6 cubes per sub @20Hz...yes 20HurtZ...and i'm not changing that, hate all you want. I will most likely do 2 SDX15's, but I am considering 18's...if I can find any 18" XBL^2 driver with 30+mm Xmax. I will be getting 2 KX2500.1's, 1 per sub. Way down the road, since all that equipment is over 1500lbs, air ride, ground effects/body kit, and it's gonna get painted Rhapsody Purple...so dark it looks black from a distance or when it starts getting dark. Deck will come much later, see whats best at that time.

I originally had 2 Ascendant Audio Avalanche 15's, and I tried to buy HexiBase's 2 XX-Colossus...but only got 1, so i resold the amp, and lost out on the subs in a bad recone situation.

my most recent pic of the front stage/dash board...bondo'ed. I'm NOT sanding it smooth, I'm adding Firewall first, then Sludge, and making that ROUGH and unpainted (ugly) too in the name of SQ. Ever seen an anechoic chamber?

http://images.google.com/images?svnum=10&a...nechoic+chamber

driver side

passenger

makin MDF rings speaker cutouts first

rings for 4 6.5's (god I love midbass)

FR125S rings and Vifa's too

I'm watching this build because the process interests me.

How did you make that cartoony photo with the Hifonics, and I assume, your daughter? BTW, cute little girl- I hope mine will help me with my installs when she's old enough.

I'm watching this build because the process interests me.

How did you make that cartoony photo with the Hifonics, and I assume, your daughter? BTW, cute little girl- I hope mine will help me with my installs when she's old enough.

I wish more people would share the step by steps...I love Steve meade, cuz not only is he a top notch builder I look up to, he SHARES. SPL'ers in general (not hating, I understand!) hate to give "trade secrets", but that's what we're here to do...share! I'm glad you find my sloppy looking work interesting..and rest assured, it is solid, just ugly.

A friend had a program to make the cartoonish look..I wish I could have gotten it from her. yeah, heather's my daughter...and beautiful she is, thanks. Take your daughter out there, she'll love spendin time with daddy no matter what you do, but she'll grow up just like you, showin the boys how it's done

Edited December 29, 200717 yr by kryptonitewhite

stuffing, note separate chamber for 4.5's sealed off with tweeter from 6.5's

i wish i had more airspace for the front stage, I wanted to port the 6.5's at 40Hz (crossover low point 50Hz) but not nearly enough, so sealed, damped, and "see's" more air.

mach wall to get ideas/spacing. My biggest wall influence is obviousely Pete "HexiBase" Kuliki, with his dual 15" Ava's in a folded rear horn. I can't touch his mathmatic skills, so i'm simply ported with a lot of airspace and low tuning...cuz i love 20HURTZ.

never use bondo in large doeses over large areas...it will crack. But here's the most worked on area, most expensive area, so far

NO airleaks anywhere when I'm done. This will yield the most dB out of everything...air pressure.

Edited December 29, 200717 yr by kryptonitewhite

took out photos of previous projects, starting a new thread for that

Edited December 30, 200717 yr by kryptonitewhite

For the power you're talking about running eventually, you'll definitely want something better than the Red Tops.

Build looks interesting so far, I like how you're attempting to mix SQ and SPL. I was going to say something about time alignment, but with all the drivers that close together, you might not need it.

Keep us updated!

best of luck to you

keep the pics comin

For the power you're talking about running eventually, you'll definitely want something better than the Red Tops.

Build looks interesting so far, I like how you're attempting to mix SQ and SPL. I was going to say something about time alignment, but with all the drivers that close together, you might not need it.

Keep us updated!

yeah, I got a sweet deal on the red tops though...so I hope with all that bank with a cpl HO alts, Ill get buy. I hope the aiming and everything is right, cuz there's no fixing and adjusting it...I could use more ring spacers I suppose to tweak the aiming, but I hope its right on as is. I suppose I can skip the almost automatic reverseing the polarity on the far tweet?

I am all about the LSQ! I enjoy watchin the SPL burps as much as anyone, and I'd love to sit in some seriouse SQ seats some day, but for me, I want to have great sound whether I'm sitting in the driveway with my eyes closed drooling, or I'm blowin off steam and showin off with the knob cranked (not in residential areas of course)

best of luck to you

keep the pics comin

thanks, for now it will be mostly old pics, with this south dakota weather, and since I blew the motor on the Hyundai, progress is slow...but it gives me time to save. I work for a company making credit cards..maybe I should make myself one with a million max eh? That'd speed things up nicely.

I would really recommend smoothing that bondo out at the very least...I predict some imaging issues above 1-2 kHz. Build to account for IID.

I would really recommend smoothing that bondo out at the very least...I predict some imaging issues above 1-2 kHz. Build to account for IID.

damn, I was hoping to get away with it...I have yet to add a third layer of rings, more bondo, then I'll be putting firewall over that, then finally sludge. The whole interior will be coated like that....everything will be wood filled behind with foam, then bondo'd, then firewall, then sludge...so the whole cabin will be rigid, air tight, and dampened.

and Im not known for my finess...just functionality

Looks like a solid build so far

I'm curious why you didn't use fiber glass for the dash...

Looks like a solid build so far

I'm curious why you didn't use fiber glass for the dash...

excellent question! I seriousely considered it, but the aiming/angling process was the biggest problem, especially being my first time doing so, and I found it quite expensive during a different build. BUT, I may still sand down the current enclosure, apply some releasing agent, and make a mould of it.

I guess this should be in "builds" I was too anxious to hurry up and get these pics up quick

I wouldnt be offended if admin moved it

I am curious as to your choice of enclosure size that you are putting all those drivers in on your dash?

Also curious if you understand cabin gain as tuning to 20hz is absurd in a car and actually harmful and not helpful. Don't get me wrong, I love LOW tunings but you are taking it too far.

I squeezed out as much space as I could for using MDF and by doing the aiming. I had originally planed on putting the drivers in the doors, which wouldn't have been much more space. I also considered doing fiberglass which would have given some back, but I wasn't too sure on my skills for it at the time. I've only done 1 fiberglass-like enclosure, but really it was just coating it. Since the onset of starting the dash, I had a job making wind turbine blades out of resin, so I have much more experience with it now. I may use the wood enclosure now as a mold, sand it smooth and apply a releasing agent. I could have used the whole dash and made 1 large rectangle box, put in a center divider, and all the speakers would have faced strait back...much much more space...but even then, it wouldn't have been nearly enough to do 2 true Kit LCR's. (That would have been sweet, eh? Vifa in for the Usher of course)

But with the power that I have, and the stuffing, it should help. I don't know the exact space the extremis share...there are so many angled sides, the top and back are seriousely angled and mis-shaped as well.

As for cabin gain, yes I know it's aproximately 12dB/oct. In my case, that will be more accurate than most, because walling it already 1/2's a small cabin to begin with, the whole cabin will be made of MDF and filled in with foam, and will all be coated with several layers of different mediums. I'm even filling the doors with foam...I'll wrap the window in cardboard and seal it up, and fill the doors with the windows down, making a gap for the tracks, windows, locks, and actuators. The only "leak" I'll have will be the outside vent. I gutted out the AC box, took out all of the vents, now it's just a big whole on top of the heater that I'll seal off to the dashboard and I'll have a screw in plug. Air tight.

I'll never be able to explain away, ever. I always find I'm trying to justify it. I can't! I already have that resined box 5.1cubes@21Hz. I've messed with it in home and in the car. There is a huge downfall, the port is useless starting around 30-35Hz. So if I'm playing an extremely low song full tilt, I have to be careful during 30-40Hz passages. I know if I brought it up to 25-28Hz...still "way lower than I should ever need in-car", I would eliminate that problem.

My L7 box was 3.4@27Hz. It went plenty low, and handled power extremely well. But I'm not going for super loud. 2 15's sealed are plenty loud for me assuming lots of power from 30Hz and up. In fact, generally too loud, until you get below that. So I don't need 2 15's maybe 18's ported for that 30-40Hz range....I like sub 30s, and there is plenty of that information in music, contrary to what a lotta people say. I can never get enough of the lows, by lows I mean sub 30s, thats where I need my reinforcement.

Thas all I can say! I don't expect to change anyones mind, just be accepted. And it's different. Who else is dumb enough to do that? lol

Also, I could easily put 4 15's in there ported. If I tuned it to 30, I'd probably get about 1-2 cubes per side. That would be about 4 cubes per sub @ 30Hz. With so little airspace, being so rigid and air tight, I could get some serious numbers.

I can also fit 4 18's sealed. About 4.5 cubes per sub.

My favorite sub stage EVER is HexiBase's. What I'd give to have his intelligence and make a rear horn wall.

I can't say I'd recommend choosing enclosure sizes based on 'as much space as I could squeeze out'

I can't say I'd recommend choosing enclosure sizes based on 'as much space as I could squeeze out'

I'd have to say that I have a better suspension set up with my (maybe) too small sealed set up than most anyone else mounting the same drivers in the door, even with sound deadening, cause let's face it, that's not even true infinate baffle...thats about as leaky and un-solid as you can get...thats free air with crap in the way constituting as a "baffle"

I think for having them crossed over 50Hz/24dB I have plenty of airspace per driver. Would i like to go a bit bigger? yes! Who has more sealed space per the same driver right now?

Looks like a solid build so far

I'm curious why you didn't use fiber glass for the dash...

excellent question! I seriousely considered it, but the aiming/angling process was the biggest problem, especially being my first time doing so, and I found it quite expensive during a different build. BUT, I may still sand down the current enclosure, apply some releasing agent, and make a mould of it.

im so inlove with the second pic...looks like a low tuned 4th order bandpass

Also, I could easily put 4 15's in there ported. If I tuned it to 30, I'd probably get about 1-2 cubes per side. That would be about 4 cubes per sub @ 30Hz. With so little airspace, being so rigid and air tight, I could get some serious numbers.

I can also fit 4 18's sealed. About 4.5 cubes per sub.

My favorite sub stage EVER is HexiBase's. What I'd give to have his intelligence and make a rear horn wall.

sounds like u need a low tuned 6th order bandpass...i can help u with that

80

I can't say I'd recommend choosing enclosure sizes based on 'as much space as I could squeeze out'

I'd have to say that I have a better suspension set up with my (maybe) too small sealed set up than most anyone else mounting the same drivers in the door, even with sound deadening, cause let's face it, that's not even true infinate baffle...thats about as leaky and un-solid as you can get...thats free air with crap in the way constituting as a "baffle"

I think for having them crossed over 50Hz/24dB I have plenty of airspace per driver. Would i like to go a bit bigger? yes! Who has more sealed space per the same driver right now?

You have strange preconceived notions.

Yup, 4th order F3 (low) 20Hz, S of .7. 54" x 3" port is all I can recall.

6th order is series tuned and 8th is parallel? I can't remember, it's been so long.

You are correct . Pressure will make that MDF panel move and crack the filler like dried mud. Little late now , but next go round for large areas like that, I would used short or long hair reinforced filler. Much, Much stronger

yeah, expensive learn...and it was a LOT of work, sanding every layer. But now my bondo skills are a little better heh.

I hope to save and get a welder, and I'll weld sheet metal in there...it's not the bass flex I need to worry about...cause there'll be a few inches of expanding foam between the enclosure and the car. The cracking was from turning....unibody twist